WEBVTT FILE 1 00:00:02.000 --> 00:00:07.000 Downloaded from YTS.MX 2 00:00:08.000 --> 00:00:13.000 Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX 3 00:00:55.365 --> 00:00:58.058 [WAVE CRASHING] 4 00:01:15.937 --> 00:01:18.388 YOUNG BRUCE: ...and already they'd been into some good waves. 5 00:01:18.423 --> 00:01:21.081 They'd be into some more good waves the next morning, 6 00:01:21.115 --> 00:01:22.599 but they couldn't help but... 7 00:01:22.634 --> 00:01:25.188 [PIANO MUSIC PLAYING] 8 00:01:27.777 --> 00:01:29.882 [CONTINUES INDISTINCTLY] 9 00:01:56.633 --> 00:01:58.877 [MUSIC CONTINUES] 10 00:02:40.850 --> 00:02:43.370 [MUSIC CONTINUES] 11 00:02:54.726 --> 00:02:57.315 DANA: He was a barefoot adventurer. 12 00:02:57.349 --> 00:02:59.800 An icon in surfing 13 00:03:00.421 --> 00:03:02.182 and motorcycling. 14 00:03:03.804 --> 00:03:06.220 Married the love of this life, 15 00:03:08.740 --> 00:03:12.399 and together, they helped create dreams... 16 00:03:13.641 --> 00:03:14.953 for millions. 17 00:03:17.231 --> 00:03:18.888 He was one of a kind... 18 00:03:18.922 --> 00:03:21.442 but friends, too many. 19 00:03:23.444 --> 00:03:27.897 He was a straight shooter and a rough neck poet. 20 00:03:29.933 --> 00:03:32.729 His name was Bruce Brown. 21 00:03:35.387 --> 00:03:38.079 To some, a legend... 22 00:03:39.564 --> 00:03:40.979 But for me, 23 00:03:41.497 --> 00:03:43.153 he was simply... 24 00:03:44.293 --> 00:03:45.432 Dad. 25 00:03:46.847 --> 00:03:48.952 [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] 26 00:03:57.582 --> 00:04:00.723 MAN 1: Your dad's kind of an institution. He's, uh... 27 00:04:00.757 --> 00:04:04.140 you know, created lifetime memories. 28 00:04:04.174 --> 00:04:07.730 Not only for people your age and mine, but, 29 00:04:07.764 --> 00:04:09.870 harking back to the days of old. 30 00:04:13.322 --> 00:04:17.187 MAN 2: At one time, there was just basically these guys 31 00:04:17.222 --> 00:04:20.950 that were trying to make some money, 32 00:04:20.984 --> 00:04:23.677 you know, being surfers. 33 00:04:23.711 --> 00:04:26.127 INTERVIEWER: Bruce, how do you feel about this question? 34 00:04:26.162 --> 00:04:29.752 I think a lot of impression people have gotten about surfers 35 00:04:29.786 --> 00:04:32.202 that isn't really true is from Hollywood movies 36 00:04:32.237 --> 00:04:34.757 which are based, like most Hollywood movies on, 37 00:04:34.791 --> 00:04:37.415 not on fact, but on fabrication. 38 00:04:37.449 --> 00:04:41.073 MAN 3: Nobody was doing documentaries like that. I mean, Bruce really 39 00:04:41.660 --> 00:04:44.353 opened up the door for 40 00:04:44.387 --> 00:04:48.322 a flood of filmmakers to copy what he did. 41 00:04:48.357 --> 00:04:51.601 MAN 4: I don't think seriously I'll be doing today what I'm doing today 42 00:04:51.636 --> 00:04:53.154 without seeing that movie. 43 00:04:53.189 --> 00:04:55.295 I mean, I love motorcycles, but I really got my head into it 44 00:04:55.329 --> 00:04:57.676 and saw so many different genres, and... 45 00:04:57.711 --> 00:05:01.059 You know, it showed the heart and soul of motorcycle racers. 46 00:05:01.093 --> 00:05:04.027 MAN 5: The big story about all of them is 47 00:05:04.062 --> 00:05:07.686 that they were the foundation of the sport of surfing 48 00:05:07.721 --> 00:05:10.344 that's grown into this gigantic 49 00:05:10.379 --> 00:05:12.795 mega-million dollar industry now. 50 00:05:12.829 --> 00:05:13.968 [PEOPLE CHEERING] 51 00:05:14.003 --> 00:05:16.005 MAN 6: I think that whole crew, it's... 52 00:05:16.039 --> 00:05:17.800 I don't think you'll ever see a group of 53 00:05:17.834 --> 00:05:19.077 men like that again. 54 00:05:19.111 --> 00:05:21.562 You know, they fished, they dove, they surfed, 55 00:05:21.597 --> 00:05:24.324 they rode motorcycles, they built things, they designed things, 56 00:05:24.358 --> 00:05:25.497 they changed sports. 57 00:05:25.532 --> 00:05:26.809 They, you know, they did a lot 58 00:05:26.843 --> 00:05:29.984 to that action sports industry that we grew up with, 59 00:05:30.019 --> 00:05:33.816 and now, you know, I'm sure a lot of the young kids don't even recognize 60 00:05:33.850 --> 00:05:35.542 what those guys did. 61 00:05:36.370 --> 00:05:37.923 MAN 7: It's just... 62 00:05:37.958 --> 00:05:41.755 Just an amazing group of people. I mean, just... 63 00:05:41.789 --> 00:05:45.483 No egos, just let's have a good time. 64 00:05:45.517 --> 00:05:47.726 I feel like it was just a group of people 65 00:05:47.761 --> 00:05:50.419 that were trying to get the most out of life, you know. 66 00:05:50.936 --> 00:05:52.869 [MUSIC CONTINUES] 67 00:06:04.433 --> 00:06:09.023 DANA: My dad and his friends are called pioneers of a lifestyle. 68 00:06:09.058 --> 00:06:11.198 A word he truly hated. 69 00:06:11.232 --> 00:06:15.547 He was about life, and not about legend. 70 00:06:15.582 --> 00:06:19.517 INTERVIEWER: So, how... How does that happen? 71 00:06:19.551 --> 00:06:20.621 How do you become... 72 00:06:20.656 --> 00:06:23.417 Like, how does somebody turn into some legend? 73 00:06:23.452 --> 00:06:24.625 Just get old. 74 00:06:26.144 --> 00:06:28.905 You get old enough, you may become a legend. 75 00:06:32.150 --> 00:06:37.397 DANA: Despite downplaying it, Dad's impact on pop culture is undeniable. 76 00:06:37.431 --> 00:06:41.401 Just theEndless Summer image alone seems to be everywhere. 77 00:06:44.921 --> 00:06:46.716 It's a towel rack. 78 00:06:46.751 --> 00:06:48.442 DANA: His movies still sell, 79 00:06:48.477 --> 00:06:50.720 and the world over, his work is renowned. 80 00:06:50.755 --> 00:06:53.758 BRUCE: Or something like that.. I think it's a towel rack. 81 00:06:53.792 --> 00:06:55.932 It's a little bit embarrassing, I'd say. 82 00:06:56.933 --> 00:06:58.901 WOMAN: Why embarrassing? 83 00:06:58.935 --> 00:07:00.592 I don't know, you know, it's just... 84 00:07:01.386 --> 00:07:03.250 embarrassing. 85 00:07:03.284 --> 00:07:05.804 WOMAN: I feel like you should be proud. 86 00:07:05.839 --> 00:07:10.982 Well, you know... I'm, you know, grateful of course, but, 87 00:07:11.016 --> 00:07:13.225 I think I get too much credit. 88 00:07:14.537 --> 00:07:16.677 -MAN: I agree. -[LAUGHS] 89 00:07:16.712 --> 00:07:18.127 No, totally kidding. 90 00:07:18.161 --> 00:07:20.163 It's funny, 'cause when you're a kid, 91 00:07:20.198 --> 00:07:22.649 you know, your parents are like... 92 00:07:23.822 --> 00:07:26.860 furniture. They came with the house. 93 00:07:26.894 --> 00:07:30.208 I feel like your dad grew up but never grew up. 94 00:07:30.242 --> 00:07:34.315 There was like this 12-year-old kid 95 00:07:34.350 --> 00:07:37.767 stuck in a... in a 70-year-old man, like... 96 00:07:37.802 --> 00:07:39.942 He's always amazed me, because 97 00:07:39.976 --> 00:07:42.807 all of a sudden, you know, we couldn't even... 98 00:07:42.841 --> 00:07:44.049 I couldn't even get a date or anything, 99 00:07:44.084 --> 00:07:46.811 and he shows up with this beautiful woman, 100 00:07:46.845 --> 00:07:49.952 that ended up foolishly marrying him, and that's your mother. 101 00:07:49.986 --> 00:07:51.229 [LAUGHTER] 102 00:07:51.263 --> 00:07:54.543 If Bruce was the loud mouth, obnoxious, rambunctious, 103 00:07:54.577 --> 00:07:56.614 you know, full of everything, knew it all, 104 00:07:56.648 --> 00:07:59.306 your mom was just chilling. Goes, "Yeah, yeah, he's full of it." 105 00:07:59.340 --> 00:08:01.308 She was just super chill. 106 00:08:01.342 --> 00:08:05.485 I told her one day. I said, "Pat, you really screwed my life over." 107 00:08:05.519 --> 00:08:07.659 She said, "Why, what's wrong?" I said, "Well, 108 00:08:07.694 --> 00:08:10.490 "you've become a role model for every girl I meet, 109 00:08:10.524 --> 00:08:12.526 "and none of them come up to your standards." 110 00:08:12.561 --> 00:08:15.149 GRUBBY: And I'm going, "How did he pull this one off? 111 00:08:15.184 --> 00:08:19.015 "He's just a broke little nothing screw up." 112 00:08:19.050 --> 00:08:20.500 [LAUGHTER] 113 00:08:20.534 --> 00:08:23.503 That's what I am still wondering 40 years. 114 00:08:23.537 --> 00:08:27.334 That was... How'd he do this anyway? 115 00:08:27.368 --> 00:08:29.370 He's always... He's always been that way. 116 00:08:33.271 --> 00:08:35.653 DANA: Dad's wife, my mom, 117 00:08:35.687 --> 00:08:41.175 Patricia Lee Hunter Brown, passed away in 2006. 118 00:08:41.210 --> 00:08:43.592 Dad was alone in their house. 119 00:08:44.765 --> 00:08:47.216 His three kids visited a lot, 120 00:08:47.250 --> 00:08:49.390 as did the eight grandkids, 121 00:08:49.425 --> 00:08:52.739 and friends, and on occasion, 122 00:08:52.773 --> 00:08:54.534 a film crew. 123 00:08:54.568 --> 00:08:56.605 Of my wife and I... 124 00:08:56.639 --> 00:09:00.332 this is one of my favorite pictures. Makes me look tall, that's why. 125 00:09:03.646 --> 00:09:07.892 Anyway, it's one of my favorite photos. 126 00:09:07.926 --> 00:09:10.722 I didn't wanna show it too much, or I'll start crying. 127 00:09:20.905 --> 00:09:22.251 [SNIFFLES] 128 00:09:22.700 --> 00:09:24.149 [SHUTTERS OPENING] 129 00:09:26.600 --> 00:09:29.914 This is a, uh... It's actually a '93 130 00:09:29.948 --> 00:09:32.054 Subaru Impreza. 131 00:09:32.088 --> 00:09:35.402 My wife and I, we rallied I think for... 132 00:09:35.436 --> 00:09:36.645 Um... 133 00:09:38.370 --> 00:09:43.479 You know, probably five years, and... 134 00:09:43.513 --> 00:09:46.758 they put your blood type on there in case you get hurt. 135 00:09:46.793 --> 00:09:49.899 So they know what you are. 136 00:09:49.934 --> 00:09:54.352 The first rally we ran, my wife wasn't a motorsports person at all. 137 00:09:55.629 --> 00:10:00.254 So I talked her into doing the co-driver, and 138 00:10:00.289 --> 00:10:03.706 I couldn't tell, you know, if she was liking it or not. 139 00:10:04.569 --> 00:10:07.158 When it's over with, I went, "Oh... 140 00:10:07.192 --> 00:10:09.367 "Do you wanna do this again?" She goes, 141 00:10:09.401 --> 00:10:12.473 "Well, first I have to go get a sport bra." 142 00:10:12.508 --> 00:10:13.785 [LAUGHTER] 143 00:10:15.649 --> 00:10:20.205 And most people trailer their race cars to the rally, 144 00:10:20.240 --> 00:10:22.725 and we just drove it on the street. [CHUCKLES] 145 00:10:24.140 --> 00:10:27.109 My wife, who was a great navigator, 146 00:10:27.143 --> 00:10:28.351 she'd always, you know... 147 00:10:28.386 --> 00:10:31.320 You run these stages and she'd go, 148 00:10:31.354 --> 00:10:33.805 "Don't forget, we gotta drive this car home." 149 00:10:35.911 --> 00:10:38.327 It's got those big giant lights, 150 00:10:38.361 --> 00:10:39.880 'cause some of those days are at night. 151 00:10:40.674 --> 00:10:43.159 And... But... 152 00:10:44.505 --> 00:10:47.301 And then, after she passed away, I was just like nah. 153 00:10:47.336 --> 00:10:49.200 Didn't wanna do it anymore. 154 00:10:51.996 --> 00:10:55.516 DANA: After Mom passed, Dad didn't leave his ranch much. 155 00:10:55.551 --> 00:10:59.210 So my brother, sister and I decided to take him on a trip, 156 00:10:59.244 --> 00:11:01.661 and I'd make a film of the odyssey. 157 00:11:01.695 --> 00:11:05.837 He reluctantly agreed, as long as he could bring his dog, Rusty. 158 00:11:07.114 --> 00:11:10.428 Rusty's a good dog, he's just a little... 159 00:11:11.118 --> 00:11:12.913 off. 160 00:11:12.948 --> 00:11:14.674 [RUSTY BARKING] 161 00:11:14.708 --> 00:11:16.296 [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] 162 00:11:17.918 --> 00:11:19.817 So we piled into the motorhome, 163 00:11:19.851 --> 00:11:23.544 my brother Wade, consummate craftsman and musician, 164 00:11:23.579 --> 00:11:27.756 sister Nancy, cowgirl, mama bear, and force of nature. 165 00:11:27.790 --> 00:11:30.620 Cameraman extraordinaire Steve Matzinger, 166 00:11:30.655 --> 00:11:33.693 Dad's grandson, camera assistant John Tipich, 167 00:11:33.727 --> 00:11:37.110 first time sound man, producer Chris Husband 168 00:11:37.144 --> 00:11:40.251 and over qualified driver, Syd Cole. 169 00:11:40.285 --> 00:11:44.393 Off we went, as Dad said, to visit his heroes. 170 00:11:46.740 --> 00:11:50.261 The trip began in February 2012, 171 00:11:50.295 --> 00:11:52.401 Dad was 75. 172 00:11:53.851 --> 00:11:55.542 [CAMERA REEL ROLLING] 173 00:11:56.888 --> 00:12:00.409 Bruce Brown was born in Oakland in 1937, 174 00:12:00.443 --> 00:12:04.689 moved to Long Beach, California in 1945. 175 00:12:04.724 --> 00:12:08.003 Soon after the move, he borrowed a neighbor's paddle board 176 00:12:08.037 --> 00:12:10.453 and caught his first wave. 177 00:12:10.488 --> 00:12:13.422 Ran into the house, "Mom! Mom! You won't believe what I did!" 178 00:12:13.456 --> 00:12:17.184 My mom was kinda, "Eh..." you know, "Big deal." 179 00:12:17.219 --> 00:12:22.396 Dad was hooked and spent his high school years trying to surf all the time. 180 00:12:22.431 --> 00:12:25.572 He made friends up and down the California coast, 181 00:12:25.606 --> 00:12:28.851 with a small but enthusiastic group of young surfers. 182 00:12:28.886 --> 00:12:30.888 who shared his same passion. 183 00:12:30.922 --> 00:12:34.236 Many of these friendships would shape surfing 184 00:12:34.270 --> 00:12:37.377 and be bonds that would last forever. 185 00:12:37.411 --> 00:12:40.518 At the top of that list was Hobie Alter. 186 00:12:47.801 --> 00:12:51.253 Hobie wasn't just one of Dad's oldest friends, 187 00:12:51.287 --> 00:12:53.565 but at one time he was an in-law. 188 00:12:53.600 --> 00:12:56.258 Married to my mom's sister, Nancy. 189 00:12:56.292 --> 00:12:58.605 He was Uncle Hobie. 190 00:13:00.780 --> 00:13:03.817 Hobie's kids were literally cousins to us, 191 00:13:03.852 --> 00:13:05.232 good friends. 192 00:13:05.267 --> 00:13:09.443 His youngest son Jeff, and my brother Wade are best friends. 193 00:13:09.478 --> 00:13:12.067 Despite Hobie having terminal cancer, 194 00:13:12.101 --> 00:13:15.795 he welcomed us and the cameras to reminisce. 195 00:13:16.865 --> 00:13:19.937 Well... as I was saying, 196 00:13:19.971 --> 00:13:23.906 we're travelling around with the family and meeting all my heroes, 197 00:13:23.941 --> 00:13:26.012 and you're top of the list. 198 00:13:27.565 --> 00:13:31.811 Hobie was that fantastic combination of 199 00:13:31.845 --> 00:13:34.468 athlete businessman... 200 00:13:34.503 --> 00:13:37.471 and, you know, future seer if you want to go that far. 201 00:13:37.506 --> 00:13:39.473 He really knew where this was gonna end up. 202 00:13:39.508 --> 00:13:43.615 He'd just get something on his mind and, you know, wanted to take it... 203 00:13:43.650 --> 00:13:46.170 It wasn't about money. It wasn't like taking it to sell it. 204 00:13:46.204 --> 00:13:48.689 It was more about taking it to build it, then we'll see if it sells. 205 00:13:48.724 --> 00:13:51.554 Whatever he's get into, he would like just... 206 00:13:51.865 --> 00:13:53.004 He'd go, 207 00:13:53.039 --> 00:13:55.524 "Oh, there's gotta be a better way to do that." 208 00:13:57.422 --> 00:13:59.700 Hobie always found a better way, 209 00:13:59.735 --> 00:14:05.292 from making his surfboards to pioneering the foam blank with Gordan "Grubby" Clark. 210 00:14:05.327 --> 00:14:09.641 It was that foam that revolutionized the surf industry. 211 00:14:09.676 --> 00:14:12.713 At the time when they did it, everybody thought, "What a joke! 212 00:14:12.748 --> 00:14:14.715 "That stuff's never gonna work." 213 00:14:14.750 --> 00:14:17.684 HOBIE: We were starting to make foam boards. 214 00:14:17.718 --> 00:14:20.756 At that time it was just magic that you could have a board 215 00:14:20.790 --> 00:14:24.898 -that's resin wood, it was hard... -BRUCE: Yeah. Right. 216 00:14:24.933 --> 00:14:27.004 YOUNG BRUCE: Surfing has gone though a radical change. 217 00:14:27.038 --> 00:14:29.144 It's a far cry from the solid red wood planks 218 00:14:29.178 --> 00:14:34.390 to the modern lightweight polyurethane foam and fiber glass surfboard of today. 219 00:14:34.425 --> 00:14:36.703 DANA: Hobie not only revolutionized surfing, 220 00:14:36.737 --> 00:14:41.156 he also championed the new sport of skateboarding. 221 00:14:41.190 --> 00:14:43.779 YOUNG BRUCE: Famous surfboard manufacturer Hobie Alter 222 00:14:43.813 --> 00:14:47.679 designed the Hobie skateboard and organized a team to demonstrate. 223 00:14:47.714 --> 00:14:50.337 Actually what he used to say a lot was, "Lookie here." 224 00:14:50.372 --> 00:14:54.031 And when he said, "Lookie here,"you knew that something was going on in there. 225 00:14:54.065 --> 00:14:58.276 You know, that he's gonna make something better, 226 00:14:58.311 --> 00:15:00.244 or invent something, or do something. 227 00:15:00.278 --> 00:15:02.039 DANA: And boy, did he invent stuff. 228 00:15:02.073 --> 00:15:05.352 He made catamarans, sailboats, powerboats, 229 00:15:05.387 --> 00:15:08.183 fishing floats, radio controlled gliders, 230 00:15:08.217 --> 00:15:10.944 and a 60 foot luxury catamaran. 231 00:15:10.979 --> 00:15:13.809 I guess you sit out there with nothing to do and you start thinking, 232 00:15:13.843 --> 00:15:16.467 "I can make one better than that," and... 233 00:15:16.501 --> 00:15:18.227 So I wanted to make a model of it. 234 00:15:18.262 --> 00:15:20.954 So I made a model, and that would get it out of my system, and I... 235 00:15:20.989 --> 00:15:24.889 kinda liked the model and thought maybe would really like a real one. 236 00:15:24.924 --> 00:15:27.409 So two and a half years later, and 237 00:15:27.443 --> 00:15:29.652 a couple of bucks, um... 238 00:15:30.136 --> 00:15:31.620 here we are. 239 00:15:33.070 --> 00:15:35.762 BRUCE: None of us were worth shit at building stuff, 240 00:15:35.796 --> 00:15:38.282 so we'd always go to Hobie's, you know, and he'd go, 241 00:15:38.316 --> 00:15:40.663 "Oh, here. Let me do this and that." 242 00:15:40.698 --> 00:15:43.218 DANA: Hobie often fixed Dad's toys, 243 00:15:43.252 --> 00:15:45.427 and together, they played a lot. 244 00:15:45.461 --> 00:15:49.258 Surfing, going out to the desert to race motorcycles, 245 00:15:49.293 --> 00:15:53.262 trips to Baja, often with their families together. 246 00:15:53.297 --> 00:15:56.162 Hobie Alter was one of a kind. 247 00:15:56.196 --> 00:15:57.646 JEFF: He was a... 248 00:15:59.372 --> 00:16:00.890 A really... 249 00:16:02.030 --> 00:16:04.480 good, caring guy that 250 00:16:04.515 --> 00:16:07.414 wasn't really in any kind of controversy. 251 00:16:07.449 --> 00:16:10.003 The friends that were around him were kind of into what he was building, 252 00:16:10.038 --> 00:16:12.592 so a lot of his whole life was about, sort of, 253 00:16:12.626 --> 00:16:15.629 what was going on there, and the friends kind of were 254 00:16:15.664 --> 00:16:18.011 part of his creations in many cases. 255 00:16:19.668 --> 00:16:22.498 You invented so many things, so I'm wondering 256 00:16:22.533 --> 00:16:24.984 now, going through all this cancer treatment, 257 00:16:25.018 --> 00:16:27.434 have you invented any medical things? 258 00:16:27.469 --> 00:16:29.816 -No. [LAUGHS] -No? Oh, Jesus. 259 00:16:29.850 --> 00:16:32.992 -You're slipping. -I don't wanna get into that stuff. 260 00:16:33.026 --> 00:16:35.339 [INDISTINCT CONVERSATION] 261 00:16:35.373 --> 00:16:36.996 [MELANCHOLY MUSIC PLAYING] 262 00:16:43.830 --> 00:16:45.521 [INDISTINCT CONVERSATION CONTINUES] 263 00:16:54.910 --> 00:16:57.913 DANA: Our visit was a few short hours, 264 00:16:57.947 --> 00:17:01.330 and when these two lions in winter said goodbye, 265 00:17:01.365 --> 00:17:03.608 it would be the last time. 266 00:17:04.678 --> 00:17:06.197 -Okay, Jeffery. -WOMAN: Okay. 267 00:17:07.543 --> 00:17:09.028 Safe trip home. 268 00:17:09.062 --> 00:17:10.339 I hope so. 269 00:17:10.374 --> 00:17:12.031 WOMAN: You guys might hit some traffic. 270 00:17:16.380 --> 00:17:18.865 [WOMAN ANNOUNCING OVER PA] 271 00:17:29.738 --> 00:17:32.913 DANA: Our trip with Dad wasn't just in the motorhome. 272 00:17:32.948 --> 00:17:36.400 We also took him by jet to the Hawaiian Islands. 273 00:17:36.434 --> 00:17:39.058 For Dad, Hawaii was a special place. 274 00:17:39.092 --> 00:17:41.370 He'd been there countless times. 275 00:17:41.405 --> 00:17:45.685 The first time was in 1956, after graduating high school. 276 00:17:45.719 --> 00:17:51.104 You see, he forged a plan to get to the islands by joining the Navy. 277 00:17:51.139 --> 00:17:53.969 All he had to do was sign up to the Submarine Corps, 278 00:17:54.003 --> 00:17:57.973 go to Connecticut, finish first in his class at Sub School, 279 00:17:58.007 --> 00:18:01.287 and then he'd get to pick the port he was stationed. 280 00:18:01.321 --> 00:18:04.221 Incredibly, he did just that. 281 00:18:11.952 --> 00:18:17.475 When the Admiral presented him with the option to serve on the first US Nuclear Sub, 282 00:18:17.510 --> 00:18:23.240 Dad turned it down for a sub in Dry Dock in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii. 283 00:18:23.274 --> 00:18:25.034 This was his dream. 284 00:18:26.277 --> 00:18:28.072 He served two years, 285 00:18:28.107 --> 00:18:30.902 much of it on a sub spending months at sea. 286 00:18:30.937 --> 00:18:33.629 But he also spent months in Hawaii, 287 00:18:33.664 --> 00:18:38.807 surfing and on the beach with his 8mm camera. 288 00:18:38.841 --> 00:18:42.604 After two years, he came back to San Clemente, California, 289 00:18:42.638 --> 00:18:44.813 and got an offer to do a surf film. 290 00:18:44.847 --> 00:18:48.644 Dale Vulzi, surf shop owner, put up the money. 291 00:18:48.679 --> 00:18:51.440 He went back to Hawaii, and it was there, 292 00:18:51.475 --> 00:18:54.788 filming his first movie, he would reconnect with my mother, 293 00:18:54.823 --> 00:18:57.308 who was going to the University of Hawaii. 294 00:18:57.343 --> 00:19:01.381 They'd meet, and it became a love story for the ages. 295 00:19:05.834 --> 00:19:09.976 Their first date was in December of 1958. 296 00:19:10.010 --> 00:19:14.187 They got married in June of 1959, 297 00:19:14.222 --> 00:19:18.364 and by December of 1959, they had a child... 298 00:19:19.365 --> 00:19:20.952 me. 299 00:19:20.987 --> 00:19:25.474 I remember sitting in their room, they were both on the couch, 300 00:19:25.509 --> 00:19:26.958 smooching and watching TV, 301 00:19:26.993 --> 00:19:28.891 and I'm in there watching TV with them, you know... 302 00:19:29.685 --> 00:19:31.894 It was just like a family affair. 303 00:19:31.929 --> 00:19:33.827 I mean, from... from what I got to see, 304 00:19:33.862 --> 00:19:38.280 they had the perfect partnership and relationship, 305 00:19:38.315 --> 00:19:43.182 'cause Bruce always knew everything was gonna be okay at home. 306 00:19:43.216 --> 00:19:47.220 DANA: Dad was 22 and had a family to support, 307 00:19:47.255 --> 00:19:50.189 so he threw himself into filmmaking. 308 00:19:54.054 --> 00:19:58.231 YOUNG BRUCE: The dream for most Californian surfers was go to the islands to surf. 309 00:20:01.510 --> 00:20:05.204 North Shore of the island of Oahu was the ultimate place. 310 00:20:10.899 --> 00:20:13.522 DANA: Every year, he would film for four months, 311 00:20:13.557 --> 00:20:17.871 edit for four months, and then show the finished film for four months. 312 00:20:17.906 --> 00:20:20.219 Then start all over again. 313 00:20:21.047 --> 00:20:24.223 Surf Crazy, Barefoot Adventure, 314 00:20:24.257 --> 00:20:26.052 Surfing Hollow Days, 315 00:20:26.086 --> 00:20:27.295 Water-Logged. 316 00:20:29.089 --> 00:20:31.057 PAT: That was pretty adventurous. I mean, 317 00:20:31.091 --> 00:20:34.129 people were living in vans and vacant lots. 318 00:20:35.475 --> 00:20:39.134 It was a frontier like for California surfers. 319 00:20:46.072 --> 00:20:49.731 DANA: They were surfers and lived pretty barebones, 320 00:20:49.765 --> 00:20:51.905 but Dad had a wife and a kid, 321 00:20:51.940 --> 00:20:54.080 so making a living was important, 322 00:20:54.114 --> 00:20:57.428 and it would turn out, a family affair. 323 00:20:57.463 --> 00:21:01.812 And by the way, that's how they work, Bruce and Pat. 324 00:21:01.846 --> 00:21:05.264 Pat would run the projector, Bruce would narrate. 325 00:21:05.298 --> 00:21:08.267 YOUNG BRUCE: These waves have a tremendous amount of power. 326 00:21:08.301 --> 00:21:10.752 When you get wiped out and held under the white water, 327 00:21:10.786 --> 00:21:14.307 you sometimes stay down, two... three weeks. 328 00:21:14.342 --> 00:21:17.793 Now understand, he's in the dark, up there on stage, 329 00:21:17.828 --> 00:21:20.037 narrating this movie, live. 330 00:21:23.143 --> 00:21:24.283 No script... 331 00:21:25.594 --> 00:21:27.941 It's pure entertainment. 332 00:21:28.977 --> 00:21:32.946 It was Kailua, in 1962, 333 00:21:32.981 --> 00:21:36.950 and it was the most incredible thing I'd ever seen. 334 00:21:37.399 --> 00:21:38.711 Bruce was funny. 335 00:21:38.745 --> 00:21:42.680 What I was seeing was larger than life, all over the place. 336 00:21:42.715 --> 00:21:45.614 YOUNG BRUCE: When it's big at sunset, you see surfers paddling madly 337 00:21:45.649 --> 00:21:48.514 for the horizon, trying to get over the advancing wave. 338 00:21:50.999 --> 00:21:54.589 Forty pound boards tossed around like match sticks. 339 00:21:54.623 --> 00:21:57.316 Ricky Grigg body surfing Waimea. 340 00:22:00.560 --> 00:22:02.251 Joey Cabell... 341 00:22:16.473 --> 00:22:19.165 This is Bruce Brown, thank you for watching. 342 00:22:19.199 --> 00:22:20.891 I hope you enjoyed my film. 343 00:22:22.237 --> 00:22:24.826 JACK: I didn't want the evening to end. 344 00:22:24.860 --> 00:22:27.725 I was mesmerized by the sky. 345 00:22:27.760 --> 00:22:30.659 And as I went home that night, 346 00:22:30.694 --> 00:22:32.178 I couldn't help but think, 347 00:22:32.212 --> 00:22:35.388 what an incredible experience I'd had. 348 00:22:35.423 --> 00:22:38.564 And I figured out later, many years later, 349 00:22:38.598 --> 00:22:42.844 what it was and that was... Here was someone who was actually, 350 00:22:42.878 --> 00:22:46.986 really, really in love with what he was doing. 351 00:22:47.020 --> 00:22:52.060 But he enjoyed more than anything, of sharing the stoke of surfing. 352 00:23:00.620 --> 00:23:02.795 Early on, usually, you know... 353 00:23:02.829 --> 00:23:05.729 five or six or more guys, 354 00:23:05.763 --> 00:23:06.902 rent a home. 355 00:23:06.937 --> 00:23:10.492 Back then, almost nothing was in advance. 356 00:23:11.769 --> 00:23:13.322 Half the houses were vacant. 357 00:23:13.357 --> 00:23:15.428 So you just go knock on the door and go, 358 00:23:15.463 --> 00:23:18.155 "This place for rent? Oh, that one down there." 359 00:23:20.019 --> 00:23:21.710 Fifty bucks, sixty bucks. 360 00:23:21.745 --> 00:23:23.781 MAN: So that's what you do when you first got off the plane? 361 00:23:23.816 --> 00:23:26.128 -You'd come out here, and knock on doors... -Yeah. 362 00:23:26.163 --> 00:23:27.958 Yep. Stop by a goodwill, 363 00:23:27.992 --> 00:23:29.994 and get, you know, mattress, 364 00:23:30.029 --> 00:23:32.756 and pots and pans and stuff. 365 00:23:32.790 --> 00:23:36.311 And then, you know, buy a $50 car 366 00:23:37.795 --> 00:23:40.280 and head out here. 367 00:23:40.315 --> 00:23:43.111 But you know, you could come over here with $100 and 368 00:23:43.145 --> 00:23:45.147 stay for a month. 369 00:23:45.182 --> 00:23:47.426 And then, the North Shore was like paradise. 370 00:23:48.185 --> 00:23:50.670 [PLEASANT MUSIC PLAYING] 371 00:23:51.878 --> 00:23:53.846 DANA: Today, the North Shore has become 372 00:23:53.880 --> 00:23:55.986 the epicenter of the surfing world. 373 00:23:58.022 --> 00:24:01.612 Its famous stretch of coastline known as the Seven Mile Miracle, 374 00:24:01.647 --> 00:24:04.339 is home to some of the best waves on the planet. 375 00:24:05.478 --> 00:24:08.274 Professional surfers from across the globe 376 00:24:08.308 --> 00:24:10.794 come here every winter, to prove their worth 377 00:24:10.828 --> 00:24:13.348 amongst these world class waves. 378 00:24:15.143 --> 00:24:17.456 BRUCE: Yeah, back in the late '50s, early '60s, 379 00:24:17.490 --> 00:24:19.319 this was like a ghost town. 380 00:24:19.354 --> 00:24:22.530 Last time I was here, was '92 or something. 381 00:24:22.564 --> 00:24:25.498 And it's even changed a lot since then. 382 00:24:25.533 --> 00:24:27.396 I mean, who would have thought you'd have to 383 00:24:27.431 --> 00:24:29.364 have a hard time find a parking place 384 00:24:29.398 --> 00:24:31.711 on Kamehameha Highway on the North Shore. 385 00:24:31.746 --> 00:24:33.057 [LAUGHING] 386 00:24:33.092 --> 00:24:35.957 It's amazing. 387 00:24:35.991 --> 00:24:39.961 DANA: One thing that hasn't changed is the waves. 388 00:24:39.995 --> 00:24:43.999 Many of these breaks have the same names they had when Dad was here. 389 00:24:44.034 --> 00:24:46.692 In fact, he named a few. 390 00:24:46.726 --> 00:24:50.005 North Shore resident and old friend, Mike Slattery, 391 00:24:50.040 --> 00:24:52.387 took us to one of those breaks, Velzyland. 392 00:24:52.421 --> 00:24:53.526 YOUNG BRUCE: Once the weather cleared up, 393 00:24:53.561 --> 00:24:55.355 a couple of surfers got together, 394 00:24:55.390 --> 00:24:59.359 heading out toward Velzyland, a place they discovered earlier. 395 00:24:59.394 --> 00:25:02.362 Here's friendly surfer Kemp Aaberg, 396 00:25:02.397 --> 00:25:04.364 friendly surfer Dewey Weber. 397 00:25:04.399 --> 00:25:06.366 Think they've got a signed-on agreement 398 00:25:06.401 --> 00:25:08.921 that some competition between the two is in order. 399 00:25:08.955 --> 00:25:10.819 So that view that you're talking about, 400 00:25:10.854 --> 00:25:12.511 it's kind of where the... 401 00:25:12.545 --> 00:25:14.685 Right about where the people are standing on the beach just down here... 402 00:25:14.720 --> 00:25:18.275 BRUCE: And Dewey Weber takes off on the first wave at Velzyland. 403 00:25:18.309 --> 00:25:21.692 Uh, well, it was like nobody surfed this place before. 404 00:25:21.727 --> 00:25:24.384 So, you know, we got pictures of it... 405 00:25:24.419 --> 00:25:27.422 You know, on a movie like in '58 or something. 406 00:25:28.734 --> 00:25:30.874 And, you know, I just named it Velzyland because 407 00:25:30.908 --> 00:25:34.256 Velzy sponsored my first movie. 408 00:25:34.291 --> 00:25:37.536 And for some reason, Velzyland stuck. 409 00:25:37.570 --> 00:25:38.744 And Pipeline, so. 410 00:25:38.778 --> 00:25:41.263 [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] 411 00:25:46.614 --> 00:25:49.755 DANA: That's right. Dad named Pipeline. 412 00:25:51.170 --> 00:25:53.586 Pipeline, and no matter where you go in the world, 413 00:25:53.621 --> 00:25:55.105 that is the event. 414 00:25:55.139 --> 00:25:57.314 That's the one that you want to come to. That's where you want to be. 415 00:25:58.936 --> 00:26:00.800 DANA: This is the Super Bowl. 416 00:26:00.835 --> 00:26:04.286 This is the wave that launched a million dreams. 417 00:26:05.909 --> 00:26:07.635 [UPBEAT MUSIC CONTINUES] 418 00:26:22.788 --> 00:26:25.514 BRUCE: There's hardly any waves that go on a route. 419 00:26:25.549 --> 00:26:28.276 -I think I saw two... -[ALL LAUGHING] 420 00:26:28.310 --> 00:26:29.864 ...in three days. 421 00:26:31.659 --> 00:26:34.247 DANA: Dad was there at the beginning. 422 00:26:34.282 --> 00:26:38.113 In the winter of 1961, he filmed Phil Edwards, 423 00:26:38.148 --> 00:26:41.565 ride a wave considered unrideable. 424 00:26:44.050 --> 00:26:45.293 DANA: You guys must have looked at it. 425 00:26:45.327 --> 00:26:47.191 BRUCE: Oh, yeah. Looked at it all the time. 426 00:26:47.226 --> 00:26:50.298 You know, 'cause like, you could die. 427 00:26:51.644 --> 00:26:55.786 [WAVES THUNDERING] 428 00:26:55.821 --> 00:26:58.686 DANA: Now you take a long look before you think about going out 429 00:26:58.720 --> 00:27:01.102 and riding a wave that looked like that, 430 00:27:01.136 --> 00:27:02.344 anywhere. 431 00:27:02.379 --> 00:27:05.278 Take into consideration what was on the bottom, 432 00:27:05.313 --> 00:27:07.660 and that it had never been done before. 433 00:27:07.695 --> 00:27:11.215 Took a lot of nerve and lot of skill. 434 00:27:11.250 --> 00:27:15.392 Phil decided to paddle out and take a closer look at one of these waves. 435 00:27:15.426 --> 00:27:16.773 He paddled out, turned around, 436 00:27:16.807 --> 00:27:18.982 and took off on the first wave that came through. 437 00:27:19.016 --> 00:27:22.986 Watch this phenomenal ride. Phil Edwards gets the Pipeline in Hawaii. 438 00:27:23.020 --> 00:27:26.645 [POP MUSIC PLAYING] 439 00:27:31.684 --> 00:27:34.135 BRUCE: [CLEARS THROAT] Phil went out, caught one wave, 440 00:27:34.169 --> 00:27:35.170 came in, said, "That's enough." 441 00:27:35.205 --> 00:27:37.034 [all laughing] 442 00:27:37.069 --> 00:27:39.002 Like what often happens with a new spot, 443 00:27:39.036 --> 00:27:42.350 when one person tries it, other surfers will go out and also try it. 444 00:27:42.384 --> 00:27:46.388 Dave Willingham paddled out the Pipeline later in the afternoon... 445 00:27:47.389 --> 00:27:49.012 Mike Hynson from La Jolla taking off, 446 00:27:49.046 --> 00:27:53.016 couldn't believe his eyes on this wave when he looked down. 447 00:27:53.050 --> 00:27:57.192 Not long after, yeah, whole bunch of guys come in 448 00:27:57.227 --> 00:27:58.849 and going over the falls. 449 00:27:58.884 --> 00:28:00.851 And they were caught in a horrible wave, like you can imagine. 450 00:28:00.886 --> 00:28:03.785 Nobody got hurt. It was kinda like, "Oh, okay, well..." 451 00:28:05.787 --> 00:28:08.583 DANA: And for generations, they followed, 452 00:28:08.617 --> 00:28:11.620 coming to test themselves at Pipeline. 453 00:28:11.655 --> 00:28:15.245 Some on boards, others, with cameras. 454 00:28:15.279 --> 00:28:18.627 Like Don King, arguably the most sought-after 455 00:28:18.662 --> 00:28:22.010 and successful water cinematographer in the world, 456 00:28:22.045 --> 00:28:25.911 who worked with Dad early in his career on The Endless Summer 2. 457 00:28:27.740 --> 00:28:31.226 Yeah, just seeing you again is kind of reminding me of 458 00:28:31.261 --> 00:28:33.366 when we were filming Endless Summer, 459 00:28:33.401 --> 00:28:35.610 and at the time, you know, 460 00:28:35.644 --> 00:28:38.578 you were a legend to me, because when I was growing up, 461 00:28:38.613 --> 00:28:41.581 your films were on the big screen then. 462 00:28:41.616 --> 00:28:43.963 As a family, we we'd go to the drive-in theater. 463 00:28:43.998 --> 00:28:48.554 We watched The Endless Summer, and we watched On Any Sunday, 464 00:28:48.588 --> 00:28:51.419 and those films made a big impression on me. 465 00:28:51.453 --> 00:28:52.903 And I just loved watching those films. 466 00:28:52.938 --> 00:28:55.906 I didn't know at that pointthat I wanted to be a filmmaker, 467 00:28:55.941 --> 00:29:00.911 but the way you showed it made it really fun and interesting. 468 00:29:00.946 --> 00:29:04.812 I wanna say thank you for all the inspiration, 469 00:29:04.846 --> 00:29:07.607 and for the great opportunity that you gave me 470 00:29:07.642 --> 00:29:10.610 at such a pivotal time for me, 471 00:29:10.645 --> 00:29:13.786 and, you know, you really helped my career, 472 00:29:13.821 --> 00:29:17.100 and helped make my whole life a better thing. 473 00:29:17.134 --> 00:29:19.619 -Well, thank you. -Yeah, yeah. 474 00:29:19.654 --> 00:29:22.450 -You're very, very kind. -[ALL LAUGHING] 475 00:29:22.484 --> 00:29:25.073 [INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC PLAYING] 476 00:29:25.108 --> 00:29:28.352 DANA: Dad had many friends from many walks of life. 477 00:29:28.387 --> 00:29:31.597 And everyone came by for a visit. 478 00:29:31.631 --> 00:29:33.564 [INDISTINCT CONVERSATION] 479 00:29:40.019 --> 00:29:41.503 [LAUGHING] 480 00:29:42.573 --> 00:29:46.785 -[INDISTINCT CONVERSATION] -[PEOPLE LAUGHING] 481 00:29:48.510 --> 00:29:50.823 DANA: Mark Martinson is a surf legend. 482 00:29:50.858 --> 00:29:53.481 One of the best of the '60s, and in the '70s, 483 00:29:53.515 --> 00:29:55.828 he worked on Dad's sword fishing boat, 484 00:29:55.863 --> 00:29:59.832 slept in Wade and I's bedroom, right between the beds. 485 00:29:59.867 --> 00:30:04.216 We called him Shrimpenstein Brown our long-lost older brother 486 00:30:04.250 --> 00:30:05.734 [MO LAUGHING] 487 00:30:05.769 --> 00:30:10.498 I got this guy laughing finally.I've been trying all evening. 488 00:30:10.532 --> 00:30:13.673 DANA: Mo Angel is the widow of surf legend Jose Angel, 489 00:30:14.226 --> 00:30:16.159 who drowned in 1976. 490 00:30:16.193 --> 00:30:19.990 Dad and Jose had been friends since his days in the Navy. 491 00:30:20.025 --> 00:30:23.683 Still, when Mo and Dad get together, they act like teenagers. 492 00:30:23.718 --> 00:30:26.031 There you go. Now we'll start all over. 493 00:30:26.065 --> 00:30:27.549 [ALL LAUGHING] 494 00:30:27.584 --> 00:30:29.655 These family legacies continue. 495 00:30:29.689 --> 00:30:33.348 Jose's son Johnny Angel is a North Shore life guard. 496 00:30:33.383 --> 00:30:36.386 A true water man and a truly funny man. 497 00:30:37.836 --> 00:30:41.840 Long board legend Joel Tudor also came by to share a few laughs. 498 00:30:43.462 --> 00:30:47.362 Joel brought his friend and prodigy Harrison Roach. 499 00:30:47.397 --> 00:30:51.953 Harrison is barely in his 20's, but a huge fan of Dad's. 500 00:30:53.921 --> 00:30:55.681 [ALL LAUGHING] 501 00:30:55.715 --> 00:30:57.027 [INDISTINCT CHATTERING] 502 00:30:57.062 --> 00:30:59.927 DANA: One more. One more. Here we go. One, two, three. 503 00:30:59.961 --> 00:31:02.032 [CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKING] 504 00:31:02.067 --> 00:31:05.760 DANA: In Hawaii, we stayed in one place and people came to us. 505 00:31:07.935 --> 00:31:11.214 Our trip on the West Coast, we travelled to them. 506 00:31:11.248 --> 00:31:13.457 [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] 507 00:31:16.219 --> 00:31:19.222 Over 1,000 miles in the motorhome. 508 00:31:19.256 --> 00:31:21.638 With Wade, Nancy... 509 00:31:22.259 --> 00:31:23.778 Fine dining. 510 00:31:24.813 --> 00:31:29.197 Smoke breaks every 15 miles. And Rusty. 511 00:31:29.232 --> 00:31:32.960 Shedding, peeing, and humping. 512 00:31:32.994 --> 00:31:36.066 DANA: Next road trip, the dog's staying home. 513 00:31:36.101 --> 00:31:37.930 We were visiting friends. 514 00:31:37.965 --> 00:31:40.726 Some, Dad had known for over half a century. 515 00:31:40.760 --> 00:31:43.246 Like Gordon Grubby Clark. 516 00:31:43.280 --> 00:31:44.937 BRUCE: Hey, old fart. GRUBBY: Hey. 517 00:31:44.972 --> 00:31:47.112 God, you look just like I remember you. 518 00:31:49.459 --> 00:31:50.736 Come here. 519 00:31:50.770 --> 00:31:53.083 No. You're trying to steal... Trying to scare me. 520 00:31:53.118 --> 00:31:54.947 I'm staying with my people. 521 00:31:54.982 --> 00:31:56.845 [LAUGHTER] 522 00:31:58.088 --> 00:32:01.781 DANA: Gordon "Grubby" Clark, the Henry Ford of surfing. 523 00:32:01.816 --> 00:32:06.648 Grubby invented the foam that all surfboards are made from. 524 00:32:06.683 --> 00:32:10.169 Grubby is a true titan in surfing, but very private, 525 00:32:10.204 --> 00:32:14.139 and often portrayed in the media as a barefoot robber baron. 526 00:32:14.656 --> 00:32:17.970 [DANA SPEAKING] 527 00:32:18.005 --> 00:32:19.144 Everything. 528 00:32:20.283 --> 00:32:21.594 That's a good answer. 529 00:32:21.629 --> 00:32:24.011 Can we go to a another line of questioning? 530 00:32:24.045 --> 00:32:26.289 [GRUBBY LAUGHING] 531 00:32:26.323 --> 00:32:30.086 He has this public image that... 532 00:32:30.120 --> 00:32:33.468 really isn't anything like the real person. 533 00:32:33.503 --> 00:32:36.471 Very few people know that, but... 534 00:32:36.506 --> 00:32:39.302 We go along with the public image 535 00:32:39.336 --> 00:32:41.752 -to encourage it as much as possible. -[ALL LAUGHING] 536 00:32:42.857 --> 00:32:47.482 But there's a real sweet, warm, 537 00:32:47.517 --> 00:32:49.553 real person under it all. 538 00:32:49.588 --> 00:32:55.525 Like, Grubby would donate a bunch of money to different surfing things, 539 00:32:55.559 --> 00:32:58.493 but he never let them say where it came from. 540 00:32:58.528 --> 00:33:00.185 'Cause, you know, so everybody would say, 541 00:33:00.219 --> 00:33:01.841 "God, Grubby is really a bad guy 542 00:33:01.876 --> 00:33:03.912 "and never putting anything back in the sport." 543 00:33:03.947 --> 00:33:05.155 Which wasn't true. 544 00:33:05.190 --> 00:33:08.296 But he would not... He wouldn't defend himself. 545 00:33:08.331 --> 00:33:13.336 He'd just makes some comment, you know, some rash comment. 546 00:33:13.370 --> 00:33:15.855 [BLUES MUSIC PLAYING] 547 00:33:17.719 --> 00:33:19.204 But he can also drive you nuts. 548 00:33:20.205 --> 00:33:21.585 You know, I mean? 549 00:33:22.241 --> 00:33:24.002 GRUBBY: Here he is. 550 00:33:24.036 --> 00:33:26.142 The old man with the bad teeth. 551 00:33:26.176 --> 00:33:27.074 [WADE LAUGHING] 552 00:33:27.108 --> 00:33:28.109 BRUCE: Bad teeth? 553 00:33:28.868 --> 00:33:31.078 Hey, my man. How are you? 554 00:33:35.082 --> 00:33:36.117 Good to see you. 555 00:33:37.084 --> 00:33:38.188 [SPEAKING] 556 00:33:38.223 --> 00:33:39.569 Yeah. 557 00:33:41.916 --> 00:33:44.401 [ALL LAUGHING] 558 00:33:44.436 --> 00:33:46.162 What are you doing here? 559 00:33:46.196 --> 00:33:49.579 How did they get you... How did they get you out? 560 00:33:50.166 --> 00:33:51.305 Huh? 561 00:33:51.339 --> 00:33:52.375 WOMAN: How's it going? 562 00:33:52.409 --> 00:33:54.722 BRUCE: Good. WOMAN: Nice to see you. 563 00:33:54.756 --> 00:33:56.862 Uh-Oh! Hey, Hey, Hey. 564 00:33:57.380 --> 00:33:59.899 Oh, God! 565 00:33:59.934 --> 00:34:03.006 Your dog just pissed on my couch. 566 00:34:03.041 --> 00:34:03.834 It's okay. 567 00:34:03.869 --> 00:34:04.870 I'm gonna give you a paper towel. 568 00:34:04.904 --> 00:34:06.768 You can go clean it up right away. 569 00:34:06.803 --> 00:34:10.013 I was trying to get him to wee-wee earlier. 570 00:34:10.048 --> 00:34:13.913 Right there. My couch. My couch, go clean it up. 571 00:34:13.948 --> 00:34:17.089 -Where is it? -GRUBBY: Right in the corner of the couch. 572 00:34:17.124 --> 00:34:19.678 -Where? -GRUBBY: Your dog reflects its master. 573 00:34:19.712 --> 00:34:20.955 [ALL LAUGHING] 574 00:34:20.989 --> 00:34:23.613 Right here. Right in that corner. Right there. 575 00:34:24.579 --> 00:34:26.064 -Right there. -Oh! 576 00:34:27.203 --> 00:34:28.721 No, no, no, no. Come on. 577 00:34:28.756 --> 00:34:30.792 Can you believe that? 578 00:34:30.827 --> 00:34:34.589 Already you've done something wrong. 579 00:34:34.624 --> 00:34:37.972 [ALL LAUGHING] 580 00:34:38.006 --> 00:34:40.802 -WOMAN: Absolutely not. -[DOG BARKING] 581 00:34:41.734 --> 00:34:43.771 DANA: Beyond being old friends, 582 00:34:43.805 --> 00:34:47.085 we'd been neighbors of Grubby in the early '60s. 583 00:34:47.119 --> 00:34:50.226 How long you been living here? 584 00:34:50.260 --> 00:34:53.091 Little over a year. Did you see the picture? 585 00:34:53.125 --> 00:34:55.300 -BRUCE: What picture? -Come here. 586 00:34:56.646 --> 00:34:59.373 I saved this on my wall just to show it to you. 587 00:34:59.407 --> 00:35:02.721 You can see how nice I was looking and how shitty you were. 588 00:35:02.755 --> 00:35:05.137 [ALL LAUGHING] 589 00:35:05.172 --> 00:35:08.106 -There's how I lived. That was my house. -No, that... 590 00:35:08.140 --> 00:35:11.557 Bullshit. That's it. Look, right there, look at there. 591 00:35:11.592 --> 00:35:13.973 -Oh, that there? Yeah. -Yeah, see, there it is. 592 00:35:14.008 --> 00:35:16.390 -Didn't look like that when you lived there at all. -Yes, it did. 593 00:35:16.424 --> 00:35:18.150 -Bullshit. -Even better, it was new. 594 00:35:18.185 --> 00:35:22.258 -No. -Yes, it did. This room was all just exactly like how it is. 595 00:35:22.292 --> 00:35:24.398 There was all gym socks... 596 00:35:24.432 --> 00:35:27.470 No, that's how it looked, and that's how it looks now. 597 00:35:27.504 --> 00:35:30.024 No, no. No, not even is. 598 00:35:30.058 --> 00:35:32.992 Look how much they're selling it for. $10.10 million. 599 00:35:33.027 --> 00:35:36.237 That's not it. That's not it. That's not even it. 600 00:35:36.272 --> 00:35:38.757 -That's not even your house. -That is. Right there. 601 00:35:38.791 --> 00:35:40.966 -No! -That's the upstairs bedroom. 602 00:35:41.000 --> 00:35:43.106 It was just like a one little thing. 603 00:35:43.141 --> 00:35:47.179 No, there was an upstairs, and we slept up here and down here. 604 00:35:47.214 --> 00:35:49.492 -You can't remember. -[DOG WHIMPERING] 605 00:35:49.526 --> 00:35:52.322 Gosh, damn it. That's terrible when you can't remem... 606 00:35:52.357 --> 00:35:54.117 No, they remodeled the thing. 607 00:35:54.152 --> 00:35:56.706 It's terrible when you're old like this. 608 00:35:56.740 --> 00:35:58.846 -That is it. -That is it. 609 00:35:58.880 --> 00:36:00.641 DANA: It's too small. That is too small. 610 00:36:00.675 --> 00:36:04.369 Oh, you can read still? Oh, that's good. You haven't lost it completely. 611 00:36:04.403 --> 00:36:07.130 DANA: Grubby, when you lived there, was the floor... 612 00:36:07.165 --> 00:36:11.203 there was like slat in the floor so the carpet or the... 613 00:36:11.238 --> 00:36:14.482 -No, no, no, no. -What do you mean "no"? 614 00:36:14.517 --> 00:36:18.624 You'd come and sleep in our house with the window broke... 615 00:36:18.659 --> 00:36:20.695 Below that window... 616 00:36:20.730 --> 00:36:22.041 Scared the carp out of me. 617 00:36:22.076 --> 00:36:26.356 Remember the time I vanished? Was shaking so bad. 618 00:36:26.391 --> 00:36:30.049 DANA: Grubby and Dad have always had this relationship. 619 00:36:30.084 --> 00:36:31.775 An odd couple. 620 00:36:31.810 --> 00:36:35.710 Dating back to before either one of them was a filmmaker, or a board maker, 621 00:36:35.745 --> 00:36:40.025 back when Dad was a lifeguard in San Clemente, California. 622 00:36:40.059 --> 00:36:42.096 BRUCE: I was lifeguard in San Clemente, 623 00:36:42.130 --> 00:36:44.063 and Wayne Schafer and I were on duty. 624 00:36:44.098 --> 00:36:45.513 We were then the only two lifeguards. 625 00:36:45.548 --> 00:36:47.239 And we had a truck. 626 00:36:47.274 --> 00:36:51.070 And we get a call. There's, you know, an emergency drowning 627 00:36:51.105 --> 00:36:52.382 in Poche. 628 00:36:52.417 --> 00:36:54.419 So we jump in the truck. 629 00:36:56.352 --> 00:37:00.114 You know, we both jump in the passenger side... [LAUGHING] 630 00:37:00.148 --> 00:37:02.565 Anyway, I end up driving. 631 00:37:02.599 --> 00:37:04.567 Get half through the pier and the sand gets in my eye 632 00:37:04.601 --> 00:37:08.226 and I crush the fender of the truck into the pier. 633 00:37:08.260 --> 00:37:12.264 We turn the sirens on, hauling ass down to Poche 634 00:37:12.299 --> 00:37:14.266 you know, to save the poor soul. 635 00:37:14.301 --> 00:37:16.786 We get there, and it's Grubby with a stopwatch going, 636 00:37:16.820 --> 00:37:21.239 "God! The poor guy would have drowned if there wasn't anybody here." 637 00:37:21.273 --> 00:37:24.034 I mean... [LAUGHING] 638 00:37:24.069 --> 00:37:27.106 -I was timing you. -[PEOPLE LAUGHING] 639 00:37:27.141 --> 00:37:29.937 Filing a full grounding report? 640 00:37:29.971 --> 00:37:32.077 No way, we protected you. 641 00:37:32.111 --> 00:37:34.700 You never even thanked me. So, thank me now. 642 00:37:34.735 --> 00:37:36.702 [PEOPLE LAUGHING] 643 00:37:36.737 --> 00:37:39.291 Statute of limitations is over, screw you. 644 00:37:39.326 --> 00:37:41.293 [PEOPLE LAUGHING] 645 00:37:46.643 --> 00:37:48.818 [BIRDS CHIRPING] 646 00:37:51.130 --> 00:37:54.582 WADE: That's beautiful. Is he grinding away? 647 00:37:54.617 --> 00:37:56.826 [MAN 1 SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY] 648 00:37:57.930 --> 00:37:59.932 [MEN LAUGHING] 649 00:37:59.967 --> 00:38:02.141 WADE: Did you see that shot? DANA: What the... 650 00:38:02.176 --> 00:38:05.248 -Rusty! Rusty! Rusty! -[MEN LAUGHING] 651 00:38:05.283 --> 00:38:10.080 -WADE: Jesus Christ! -[MEN CONTINUE LAUGHING] 652 00:38:10.115 --> 00:38:13.843 DANA: Did you watch all that? [IMITATES DOG BARK] 653 00:38:18.434 --> 00:38:20.643 GRUBBY: We got big things for you to do. 654 00:38:20.677 --> 00:38:23.335 BRUCE: What? GRUBBY: I said, we got big things for you to do. 655 00:38:23.370 --> 00:38:26.165 Are you ready? Can you walk? Can you still walk? 656 00:38:27.477 --> 00:38:29.341 Walking's not my favorite thing. 657 00:38:38.523 --> 00:38:43.769 DANA: Despite Grubby trying to scare us, we were happy not to walk. 658 00:38:43.804 --> 00:38:47.083 His ranch is over 80 square miles. 659 00:39:03.375 --> 00:39:06.205 It's a funny story, how Gordon got this place. 660 00:39:06.240 --> 00:39:09.554 He was on a trip in Oregon with surfing legend Gerry Lopez. 661 00:39:09.588 --> 00:39:12.211 When they came across a ranch in foreclosure, 662 00:39:12.246 --> 00:39:16.043 and Grubby made what he thought was a token offer. 663 00:39:16.077 --> 00:39:19.322 A month later he calls me up, we're back in Hawaii. 664 00:39:19.357 --> 00:39:22.049 He goes, "We gotta go back there." I go, "Why?" 665 00:39:22.083 --> 00:39:24.672 He goes "Because they accepted my bid, 666 00:39:24.707 --> 00:39:26.398 "I haven't even seen the place." 667 00:39:28.227 --> 00:39:33.923 So, we came over, and here we are. 668 00:39:33.957 --> 00:39:36.581 BRUCE: We're all so proud of him, 'cause when he first bought the place, 669 00:39:36.615 --> 00:39:39.687 you know, I'm sure he thought, "I'll get somebody to run it or sell it, or... 670 00:39:39.722 --> 00:39:41.413 But then when he got into it... 671 00:39:41.448 --> 00:39:43.346 Like all these guys, they get in something, 672 00:39:43.381 --> 00:39:46.418 and then they really get deep into it. 673 00:39:46.453 --> 00:39:49.559 BRUCE: He started calling me asking cattle advice. 674 00:39:49.594 --> 00:39:51.043 [LAUGHS] So, you know... 675 00:39:51.078 --> 00:39:55.013 So, you know he's in trouble. He had no experience with that at all. 676 00:39:55.047 --> 00:39:59.949 And now he's like last year's "Cattleman of the Year" in Oregon. 677 00:39:59.983 --> 00:40:04.850 You know, and they use motorcycles to round up cattle and... 678 00:40:04.885 --> 00:40:06.438 You know, stuff like that. 679 00:40:06.473 --> 00:40:09.890 You know, look at what he's done to this place. It's amazing. 680 00:40:09.924 --> 00:40:15.067 You know, for a... Like a dumb shit from Laguna Beach... [CHUCKLES] 681 00:40:21.902 --> 00:40:24.214 Here's the shepherd's crooks. 682 00:40:24.249 --> 00:40:26.216 WADE: Everything has a reason. 683 00:40:26.251 --> 00:40:29.565 Get a picture of Grandpa smokingunder the no smoking sign. 684 00:40:29.599 --> 00:40:34.984 GRUBBY: Under the no smoking sign. Yeah, yeah. Like fucking Castro. 685 00:40:35.018 --> 00:40:39.954 WADE: I hope no one who's around here is a real rancher or farmer 686 00:40:39.989 --> 00:40:42.716 ever sees this movie because... 687 00:40:42.750 --> 00:40:44.580 You guys are really lost. 688 00:40:45.028 --> 00:40:46.444 [ALL LAUGHING] 689 00:40:46.478 --> 00:40:47.824 BRUCE: We shouldn't be proud of you? 690 00:40:47.859 --> 00:40:51.483 WADE: No.[CLEARS THROAT] I'm... I'm ahead of you but... 691 00:40:51.518 --> 00:40:53.830 But there's an awful lot of people way ahead of me. 692 00:40:53.865 --> 00:40:55.107 BRUCE: Well, of course. 693 00:40:55.142 --> 00:40:56.350 WADE: So... 694 00:41:04.979 --> 00:41:07.154 This whole ranch is a Bruce Brown ranch. 695 00:41:07.188 --> 00:41:09.363 I mean, he... He's the one that did it all. 696 00:41:11.848 --> 00:41:13.643 One day, he said, uh... 697 00:41:15.162 --> 00:41:20.270 "Hey, I'm gonna have a preview of my new movie." 698 00:41:20.305 --> 00:41:27.001 And I think in my whole life, that was the biggest shock that I've ever had. 699 00:41:27.036 --> 00:41:29.487 We went over to his house next door. 700 00:41:29.521 --> 00:41:32.524 And he was narrating it, it's before he had a sound track. 701 00:41:32.559 --> 00:41:36.045 And it was still 16 and he played The Endless Summer. 702 00:41:36.079 --> 00:41:40.014 And my God... It just... It was... 703 00:41:40.049 --> 00:41:42.120 Where did this come from? What planet? 704 00:41:42.154 --> 00:41:43.846 And... And I mean... 705 00:41:43.880 --> 00:41:46.400 It was the most amazing thing I've ever seen in my life. 706 00:41:46.434 --> 00:41:50.369 This guy that was, in my judgement, just screwing around. 707 00:41:50.404 --> 00:41:53.234 And he comes up with this thing. 708 00:41:57.445 --> 00:41:59.517 BRUCE: I'll never forget the very first showing... 709 00:41:59.551 --> 00:42:02.174 Endless Summer ended our premiere showing, 710 00:42:02.209 --> 00:42:06.040 and it was dead silent. And I'm going, "Oh, no. 711 00:42:06.075 --> 00:42:08.560 "They hate it!" You know, after all this work. 712 00:42:08.595 --> 00:42:11.218 And then all suddenlythey started clapping... "Whew!" 713 00:42:11.252 --> 00:42:15.705 The first year, we sold out every single showing. 714 00:42:15.740 --> 00:42:18.881 Every... Santa Monica Civic, understand this, 715 00:42:18.915 --> 00:42:21.711 holds 3,500 people. 716 00:42:21.746 --> 00:42:24.265 I book it for seven nights. 717 00:42:25.059 --> 00:42:28.442 Sold out every single night. 718 00:42:28.476 --> 00:42:31.928 I was out there with a megaphoneon the last show saying, 719 00:42:31.963 --> 00:42:34.517 "We're holding over for one more day." 720 00:42:34.552 --> 00:42:37.416 I was on the... Calling the radio stations... 721 00:42:37.451 --> 00:42:39.453 DANA: The Endless Summer pushed surfing 722 00:42:39.487 --> 00:42:43.526 to another level of popularity, and cultural significance. 723 00:42:43.561 --> 00:42:46.564 Surfing was hip. Grubby benefited, 724 00:42:46.598 --> 00:42:50.015 Hobie benefited, the whole surf industry benefited. 725 00:42:50.050 --> 00:42:54.606 And countless started to surf and chase their perfect wave. 726 00:42:54.641 --> 00:42:57.713 As I came in, they're almost in tears. 727 00:42:57.747 --> 00:43:01.682 "'Cause this movie changed my life." 728 00:43:01.717 --> 00:43:06.722 Changed my life, I mean, I've been so impacted so beautifully by this movie. 729 00:43:06.756 --> 00:43:11.623 GRUBBY: It was an incredible introduction of surfing to the world. 730 00:43:11.658 --> 00:43:15.972 I still think he's a screw up,I don't know where it came from. 731 00:43:16.007 --> 00:43:19.079 Sometimes, I thought your mother did it, I don't know. 732 00:43:19.113 --> 00:43:22.116 I don't know... It's impossible that he could have done it. 733 00:43:22.151 --> 00:43:23.635 [BRUCE LAUGHS] 734 00:43:23.670 --> 00:43:26.707 DANA: ButThe Endless Summer was not an overnight success. 735 00:43:26.742 --> 00:43:30.331 Dad toured the film for two years narrating live 736 00:43:30.366 --> 00:43:32.955 hoping to get mainstream distribution. 737 00:43:32.989 --> 00:43:37.062 After those two years, he got a bank loan for $50,000, 738 00:43:37.097 --> 00:43:42.067 and sent Paul Allen to Wichita, Kansas, in the middle of winter. 739 00:43:42.102 --> 00:43:44.449 PAUL ALLEN: The day I opened... 740 00:43:44.483 --> 00:43:47.521 One of the worst snowstorms hit Wichita, Kansas. 741 00:43:47.555 --> 00:43:49.799 We got about a foot of snow on the ground, 742 00:43:49.834 --> 00:43:53.665 icicles hanging off this marquee that says The Endless Summer, 743 00:43:53.700 --> 00:43:56.772 and I see people lined up around the block, 744 00:43:56.806 --> 00:43:59.809 stomping in the snow, kinda keeping warm, you know? 745 00:43:59.844 --> 00:44:03.123 And filled it up. Filled it up. 746 00:44:03.157 --> 00:44:06.298 Holy mackerel. I ended up holding it over for another week. 747 00:44:06.333 --> 00:44:08.853 The theatre owners were blown away. 748 00:44:08.887 --> 00:44:11.752 Well, of course, that was it. 749 00:44:11.787 --> 00:44:14.790 Finally, the establishment came calling. 750 00:44:14.824 --> 00:44:16.550 DANA: And in 1966, 751 00:44:16.584 --> 00:44:20.830 Dad's five-year Odyssey was an overnight sensation. 752 00:44:20.865 --> 00:44:24.627 But Dad was done with surfing as a subject matter for his movies, 753 00:44:24.662 --> 00:44:27.492 and he turned his attention elsewhere. 754 00:44:33.360 --> 00:44:36.018 BRUCE: People kept bugging me, "What are you going to do next?" 755 00:44:36.052 --> 00:44:37.467 I'm a surfer. 756 00:44:37.502 --> 00:44:40.608 If I make as much money as I say, why would I do anything? 757 00:44:41.195 --> 00:44:42.887 Anyway so. 758 00:44:42.921 --> 00:44:45.510 I think I was in Japan, and... 759 00:44:45.544 --> 00:44:48.547 they have those little Honda step throughs, 50cc things. 760 00:44:48.582 --> 00:44:51.136 And when I got home, you know, I brought one of those... 761 00:44:51.171 --> 00:44:52.586 when they first imported them 762 00:44:52.620 --> 00:44:54.795 I started, you know, puttin' around and... 763 00:44:54.830 --> 00:44:57.729 put my wife in the back and we go up the hills and stuff and... 764 00:44:57.764 --> 00:45:00.249 I go, you know, "This is kind of, this is fun." 765 00:45:00.283 --> 00:45:01.975 Before On Any Sunday 766 00:45:02.009 --> 00:45:05.564 everything else was, uh... 767 00:45:06.634 --> 00:45:10.397 choppers and bike gangs and stuff like that. 768 00:45:10.431 --> 00:45:12.917 And that's really... 769 00:45:12.951 --> 00:45:16.368 the only thing the public had 770 00:45:16.403 --> 00:45:20.234 to gage motorcycles on was that lifestyle. 771 00:45:20.269 --> 00:45:22.581 Then I got to know some of the people. 772 00:45:22.616 --> 00:45:26.447 And it was so much different than what, you know, 773 00:45:26.482 --> 00:45:29.761 the public perception of the people were. 774 00:45:29.796 --> 00:45:33.075 So, I thought, you know, it might be really fun to 775 00:45:33.109 --> 00:45:35.042 do a movie about motorcycling. 776 00:45:36.457 --> 00:45:38.770 DANA: To make a movie you need funding 777 00:45:38.805 --> 00:45:40.634 and the person my father thought of 778 00:45:40.668 --> 00:45:44.776 was motorcycle and film legend, Steve McQueen. 779 00:45:44.811 --> 00:45:47.606 BRUCE: I knew Steve was a motorcycle guy. 780 00:45:47.641 --> 00:45:51.058 So I went up to a solo production, and met with Steve, 781 00:45:51.093 --> 00:45:53.198 and said, "Hey, here's what I want to do" and he goes, 782 00:45:53.233 --> 00:45:55.580 "Oh, cool, that'd be great." You know? 783 00:45:55.614 --> 00:45:59.204 "What do you want me to do?" I go, "well, pay for it." 784 00:45:59.239 --> 00:46:02.207 And he goes, "Hey man," he says, you know, 785 00:46:02.242 --> 00:46:04.934 "I'm in movies, I don't finance movies." 786 00:46:04.969 --> 00:46:08.041 You know, "Well, you can't be in my movie then, can you?" 787 00:46:08.075 --> 00:46:09.283 And he started laughing. He said, 788 00:46:09.318 --> 00:46:11.423 "I'll call you tomorrow." He called me up and said, 789 00:46:11.458 --> 00:46:12.321 "Let's go for it." 790 00:46:12.355 --> 00:46:14.599 [MOTORCYCLE REVVING] 791 00:46:23.677 --> 00:46:26.335 YOUNG BRUCE: Four million people ride motorcycles in the US. 792 00:46:26.369 --> 00:46:29.372 They come in all shapes, sizes and ages. 793 00:46:34.343 --> 00:46:36.932 To some people a motorcycle is work... 794 00:46:38.105 --> 00:46:40.832 ...for a way to get to work. 795 00:46:40.867 --> 00:46:45.009 Or a way to get away from it all to the solitude of the open country. 796 00:46:46.389 --> 00:46:48.633 A motorcycle is whatever you want to make it. 797 00:46:48.667 --> 00:46:51.809 Turn it on, you can give yourself a real thrill. 798 00:46:53.741 --> 00:46:56.330 You know, we just shot a ton of film. 799 00:46:56.365 --> 00:46:58.539 you know, without knowing exactly, 800 00:46:58.574 --> 00:47:00.852 you know, where it's gonna end up. 801 00:47:00.887 --> 00:47:02.923 We started to take, like, a point of view, like, 802 00:47:02.958 --> 00:47:06.478 the moto cross is the young gameplay guys, 803 00:47:06.513 --> 00:47:08.653 and flat trackers are the professionals, 804 00:47:08.687 --> 00:47:12.174 and the Malcolm Smiths are the Sunday 805 00:47:12.208 --> 00:47:13.554 you know, Sportsman riders 806 00:47:13.589 --> 00:47:16.212 and trials guys are the violin players 807 00:47:16.247 --> 00:47:20.113 and desert racers are the... You know, nobody's watching, 808 00:47:20.147 --> 00:47:21.666 One hand clapping. 809 00:47:23.254 --> 00:47:25.359 You know, that kind of film. 810 00:47:25.394 --> 00:47:27.534 You know, I had certain things I wanted to do, 811 00:47:27.568 --> 00:47:30.502 but you sort of have to see what develops. 812 00:47:36.163 --> 00:47:38.545 YOUNG BRUCE: A group of businessmen during their rush hour, 813 00:47:38.579 --> 00:47:42.342 a young man with a garment bag over his shoulder is Mert Lawwill, 814 00:47:42.376 --> 00:47:46.760 29 years old, 5'6", 143 pounds. 815 00:47:48.866 --> 00:47:49.728 [BELL DINGING] 816 00:47:51.592 --> 00:47:55.976 He's not a banker or an accountant or a salesman. 817 00:47:56.011 --> 00:47:59.497 But he is a professional man like the rest. 818 00:47:59.531 --> 00:48:03.087 His profession, motorcycle racer. 819 00:48:05.952 --> 00:48:08.920 MERT: Everybody asked me earlier on if I want to be a part of the filming 820 00:48:08.955 --> 00:48:11.198 I was like, "Sure, okay." I mean, I didn't know 821 00:48:11.233 --> 00:48:12.751 what it's gonna be at all. 822 00:48:12.786 --> 00:48:14.926 Yeah, but then you find out he was gonna pay for the motel room 823 00:48:14.961 --> 00:48:16.410 -and that was great. -Yeah, that was swell. 824 00:48:16.445 --> 00:48:18.757 -He that was wonderful, and gas.-Yeah. 825 00:48:18.792 --> 00:48:20.414 "God," he said, "this is really cool." 826 00:48:20.449 --> 00:48:22.554 And he said he was really funny and fun. 827 00:48:22.589 --> 00:48:25.937 MERT: Well, I was so naive that I didn't have any clue of who he was 828 00:48:25.972 --> 00:48:29.009 until he actually started doing the filming. 829 00:48:29.044 --> 00:48:31.253 I didn't know that he's done any other surf films 830 00:48:31.287 --> 00:48:32.461 because I had tunnel vision, 831 00:48:32.495 --> 00:48:35.222 I was only looking at my stuff, motor racing. 832 00:48:35.257 --> 00:48:38.018 BRUCE: Mert makes his living in one of the most dangerous sports 833 00:48:38.053 --> 00:48:39.951 in which man participates. 834 00:48:39.986 --> 00:48:42.402 CHAD McQUEEN: My dad had us racing very young, 835 00:48:42.436 --> 00:48:44.645 at nine years old, and I remember 836 00:48:44.680 --> 00:48:47.545 having to ride with a sprained ankle. 837 00:48:47.579 --> 00:48:50.272 [MIMICS GRUNTING AND PANTING] 838 00:48:50.306 --> 00:48:51.825 And fucking Mert, Malcolm, 839 00:48:51.859 --> 00:48:55.070 these guys were, you know, broken tibias and shit, you know? 840 00:48:56.657 --> 00:49:00.592 Man, they were the elite of their sport. 841 00:49:00.627 --> 00:49:03.388 YOUNG BRUCE: Their skill on the race track has earned them the right to carry 842 00:49:03.423 --> 00:49:05.632 the American Motorcycle Association 843 00:49:05.666 --> 00:49:08.255 number one professional plate. 844 00:49:08.290 --> 00:49:09.912 BRUCE: Since Mert was number one. 845 00:49:09.947 --> 00:49:11.810 I thought, well, that's probably 846 00:49:11.845 --> 00:49:13.088 a good story, you know? 847 00:49:13.122 --> 00:49:15.573 You're either gonna be number one again 848 00:49:15.607 --> 00:49:17.230 or not be number one. 849 00:49:17.264 --> 00:49:20.026 So, there's probably a story there one way or the other, so. 850 00:49:26.342 --> 00:49:27.965 When we first took off with Mert, 851 00:49:27.999 --> 00:49:29.656 I mean, he didn't know me from Adam. 852 00:49:29.690 --> 00:49:31.830 I didn't know what the hell those guys were doing. 853 00:49:31.865 --> 00:49:35.455 -And, uh... -We had quite a trip. 854 00:49:35.489 --> 00:49:38.285 MERT: You know, we spent so much time together on the road, 855 00:49:38.320 --> 00:49:42.013 uh, during the filming that we just became friends 856 00:49:42.048 --> 00:49:45.016 and Bruce is... I mean, he's easy to be a friend with, I mean. 857 00:49:45.051 --> 00:49:47.812 His personality as such, and he's always funny. 858 00:49:47.846 --> 00:49:51.022 So, we really get along well. 859 00:49:53.369 --> 00:49:56.855 DANA: Mert is more than a legendary motorcycle racer. 860 00:49:56.890 --> 00:49:59.720 He's also a renowned inventor and designer 861 00:49:59.755 --> 00:50:02.033 of motorcycles, mountain bikes 862 00:50:02.068 --> 00:50:05.726 and mechanical appendages for amputees. 863 00:50:07.935 --> 00:50:09.730 -Hey, June! -Hi, sweetie. 864 00:50:09.765 --> 00:50:11.008 How are you my dear? 865 00:50:11.042 --> 00:50:14.114 -I'm good as can be expected. -Expecting that. 866 00:50:14.149 --> 00:50:17.048 DANA: Mert and June were among my parents' closest friends 867 00:50:17.083 --> 00:50:19.740 and we'd spend every Thanksgiving together. 868 00:50:19.775 --> 00:50:22.985 MERT: We used to rent a motorhome and go down there for Thanksgiving 869 00:50:23.020 --> 00:50:26.057 and we really had a great time. We loved it down there. 870 00:50:26.092 --> 00:50:27.507 All the kids, you know, 871 00:50:27.541 --> 00:50:31.683 relatives, and all of you kept growing and getting mates, children 872 00:50:31.718 --> 00:50:33.064 and got bigger and bigger, 873 00:50:33.099 --> 00:50:34.755 and finally Pat and I looked at each other and said, 874 00:50:34.790 --> 00:50:36.826 "There's 50 people here. 875 00:50:36.861 --> 00:50:39.553 "It's getting kind a big for the two of us." 876 00:50:39.588 --> 00:50:42.591 But it was fun. It was great fun and everybody... 877 00:50:42.625 --> 00:50:47.147 My kids' Finest thing is when Bruce stood up in front of 50 people, 878 00:50:47.182 --> 00:50:48.907 mother-in-laws, every age 879 00:50:48.942 --> 00:50:50.944 and mooned the whole crowd. 880 00:50:50.978 --> 00:50:53.567 My kids think that's the greatest thing that ever happened 881 00:50:53.602 --> 00:50:55.052 so far in their lives. 882 00:50:55.086 --> 00:50:57.882 TIM LAWWILL: There was probably 20 people at that big long 883 00:50:57.916 --> 00:51:00.402 Thanksgiving table at your house, 884 00:51:00.436 --> 00:51:02.852 and it came time to say the blessing, 885 00:51:02.887 --> 00:51:04.578 and he stood up on his chair 886 00:51:04.613 --> 00:51:06.925 -turned around, and he yippy yayed everybody. -[MAN LAUGHS] 887 00:51:06.960 --> 00:51:08.686 And if anybody else did that, 888 00:51:08.720 --> 00:51:10.515 they'd never get away with it. 889 00:51:10.550 --> 00:51:13.932 And for some reason, it was really smooth. 890 00:51:13.967 --> 00:51:16.935 It was like, it kind of really is hard to start eating, 891 00:51:16.970 --> 00:51:18.765 but, I mean, with that memory 892 00:51:18.799 --> 00:51:20.111 but he pulled it off. 893 00:51:20.146 --> 00:51:24.046 And no one else could everat all... I'll ever forget that. 894 00:51:24.081 --> 00:51:26.773 No one else could've done that and got away with it. 895 00:51:26.807 --> 00:51:28.568 [DANA SPEAKING] 896 00:51:28.602 --> 00:51:30.259 JUNE: [GASPS] No kidding. 897 00:51:30.294 --> 00:51:33.262 [DANA SPEAKING] 898 00:51:33.297 --> 00:51:34.160 [ALL LAUGHING] 899 00:51:34.194 --> 00:51:36.369 Head to the table, nuts hanging down. 900 00:51:36.403 --> 00:51:37.922 I almost fainted. 901 00:51:37.956 --> 00:51:41.201 I looked over at Pat. She's just, like, she's so immune. 902 00:51:41.236 --> 00:51:44.308 So, anything Bruce ever did, she didn't blink. 903 00:51:45.171 --> 00:51:46.482 Heh, hmm. 904 00:51:46.517 --> 00:51:49.140 Well, Pat was so special to us. 905 00:51:49.175 --> 00:51:50.659 You know, just kind of like a second mom. 906 00:51:50.693 --> 00:51:52.764 I mean, we all fit in. Kind of like we're all family. 907 00:51:52.799 --> 00:51:54.318 Not mom. She was like a sister. 908 00:51:54.352 --> 00:51:55.974 [BOTH CHUCKLE] 909 00:51:56.009 --> 00:51:57.631 -Uh... -We were in the same age. 910 00:51:57.666 --> 00:51:59.702 You know, we had kids and... 911 00:52:00.841 --> 00:52:02.015 Yeah, it was... 912 00:52:02.049 --> 00:52:03.741 -It was hard on us. -It was a hard time. 913 00:52:03.775 --> 00:52:06.985 Yeah, we're not doing good yet. [CHUCKLES] 914 00:52:07.020 --> 00:52:11.335 But it's just been forty something years. 915 00:52:12.198 --> 00:52:12.922 It sounded real. 916 00:52:12.957 --> 00:52:14.821 And it's been mostly good. 917 00:52:22.449 --> 00:52:25.038 [INDISTINCT CHATTERING] 918 00:52:29.215 --> 00:52:33.046 BRUCE: What's funny about the motorcycle crowd, 919 00:52:33.080 --> 00:52:34.461 I mean, 920 00:52:34.496 --> 00:52:38.845 almost everybody that, you know, I ran across making the movie... 921 00:52:38.879 --> 00:52:41.882 Now, you know, they've become lifelong friends. 922 00:52:41.917 --> 00:52:43.090 I mean, it's amazing. 923 00:52:49.235 --> 00:52:54.171 You know, and they're such humble people in a lot of ways. 924 00:52:57.104 --> 00:52:59.003 DANA: I think that's why On Any Sunday 925 00:52:59.037 --> 00:53:00.556 transcends all these generations. 926 00:53:00.591 --> 00:53:02.869 I don't think anybody's trying to look at something that's retro. 927 00:53:02.903 --> 00:53:06.942 I think, it's just, the spirit of it hasn't changed. 928 00:53:18.505 --> 00:53:20.058 CHAD: You know, uh, 929 00:53:20.093 --> 00:53:23.234 my dad didn't like a lot of people but something attracted... 930 00:53:24.718 --> 00:53:26.755 There was something... 931 00:53:29.965 --> 00:53:31.725 ...about your dad and my dad 932 00:53:31.760 --> 00:53:34.935 that was on a similar wavelength, you know? 933 00:53:34.970 --> 00:53:37.938 and it wasn't just motorcycles, you know? 934 00:53:43.116 --> 00:53:45.877 STEVE: Every time I start thinking the world is all bad 935 00:53:45.912 --> 00:53:47.500 then I start seeing some people out there 936 00:53:47.534 --> 00:53:50.157 having a good time with motorcycles that makes me take another look. 937 00:53:54.300 --> 00:53:57.234 BRUCE: I remember, riding the other races years ago. 938 00:53:57.268 --> 00:53:59.132 I haven't ridden one in a long time. 939 00:53:59.788 --> 00:54:02.584 It's the same. But... 940 00:54:02.618 --> 00:54:05.276 It's a little box canyon and everybody's jammed up, 941 00:54:05.311 --> 00:54:06.933 and you're running into somebody, 942 00:54:06.967 --> 00:54:08.866 knock them over and they go, 943 00:54:08.900 --> 00:54:11.282 you know, "I'm really sorry." "Are you having fun?" 944 00:54:11.317 --> 00:54:14.112 -[CHUCKLES] -You go, "Yeah, sorry." 945 00:54:14.147 --> 00:54:15.942 "Ah, don't worry about it." 946 00:54:15.976 --> 00:54:19.704 You know, that's typical motorsports people. 947 00:54:19.739 --> 00:54:22.293 And even more with the motorcycle folks. 948 00:54:22.328 --> 00:54:26.987 DANA: The motorcycle community brought Dad many lifelong friendships. 949 00:54:27.022 --> 00:54:28.782 And when it came to those friends, 950 00:54:28.817 --> 00:54:31.129 it didn't matter how much time had gone by. 951 00:54:31.164 --> 00:54:34.443 He knew he'd always be greeted with a kind word 952 00:54:34.478 --> 00:54:36.342 and a gentle welcome. 953 00:54:38.516 --> 00:54:40.518 [MAN SPEAKING LOUDLY] 954 00:54:43.176 --> 00:54:45.834 The last time I talked to somebody, they said, 955 00:54:45.868 --> 00:54:49.147 -"In a couple of days he'll be dead." -[LAUGHS] 956 00:54:49.182 --> 00:54:50.735 Well, that's why we're doing this. 957 00:54:50.770 --> 00:54:53.013 Oh, this is the goodwill church? 958 00:54:53.048 --> 00:54:54.670 DAN: This is for insurance purposes. 959 00:54:54.705 --> 00:54:58.329 This is the "Be with the hero" tour. 960 00:54:58.364 --> 00:55:00.918 And you're a hero. You're in the wrong fucking place. 961 00:55:00.952 --> 00:55:02.091 You're not... 962 00:55:02.126 --> 00:55:04.093 DANA: Kenny Roberts is unquestionably 963 00:55:04.128 --> 00:55:07.821 the greatest motorcycle racer of the 20th century. 964 00:55:07.856 --> 00:55:11.446 Kenny was the A.M.A. Grand National Champion 965 00:55:11.480 --> 00:55:13.482 on the dirt track three times. 966 00:55:13.517 --> 00:55:15.001 Then he went to Europe 967 00:55:15.035 --> 00:55:18.832 where he became the first American to win a Moto GP Championship. 968 00:55:18.867 --> 00:55:22.008 And then followed that up with two more. 969 00:55:23.527 --> 00:55:25.598 I'm surprised you're here actually. I'm really... 970 00:55:25.632 --> 00:55:26.495 -WOMAN: Really? -Yeah. 971 00:55:26.530 --> 00:55:27.565 You say I was... 972 00:55:27.600 --> 00:55:29.843 I tried to get so far away no one would find me 973 00:55:29.878 --> 00:55:31.535 but he found me. 974 00:55:31.569 --> 00:55:32.639 [ALL CHUCKLING] 975 00:55:35.401 --> 00:55:37.955 DANA: His nickname is "The King". 976 00:55:37.989 --> 00:55:40.854 And if anybody earned that nickname, 977 00:55:40.889 --> 00:55:43.201 it's Kenny Roberts. 978 00:55:43.236 --> 00:55:45.411 -WOMAN: It's not working. -That's what I'm talking about. 979 00:55:45.445 --> 00:55:47.136 [ALL LAUGHING] 980 00:55:56.214 --> 00:55:58.182 DANA: After Kenny retired from racing 981 00:55:58.216 --> 00:56:01.806 he became a team owner on the Moto GP circuit, 982 00:56:01.841 --> 00:56:04.153 guiding six more world champions. 983 00:56:04.188 --> 00:56:07.502 The last was his son, Kenny Roberts Jr. 984 00:56:07.536 --> 00:56:12.610 His youngest son, Kurtis, was also a Superbike champion. 985 00:56:12.645 --> 00:56:16.269 It's safe to say the Roberts have quite the DNA. 986 00:56:21.378 --> 00:56:23.725 TROY LEE: He took it to a whole 'nother level. He brought... 987 00:56:23.759 --> 00:56:25.451 You know, he was the heavy hitter 988 00:56:25.485 --> 00:56:28.385 that went to Europe and pulled it off and beat the best in the world. 989 00:56:28.419 --> 00:56:31.422 He was able to do it on all different levels 990 00:56:31.457 --> 00:56:35.184 from dirt to pavement. I mean, he is my idol. 991 00:56:35.219 --> 00:56:36.565 DANA: For my dad and Kenny, 992 00:56:36.600 --> 00:56:39.257 their friendship wasn't a matter of mutual admiration 993 00:56:39.292 --> 00:56:40.742 or what they had accomplished 994 00:56:40.776 --> 00:56:42.951 it was a much deeper connection. 995 00:56:43.779 --> 00:56:45.988 Right away we sort of hit it off. 996 00:56:46.023 --> 00:56:48.508 And from then on it was, 997 00:56:48.543 --> 00:56:51.062 every time we were together we were in trouble 998 00:56:51.097 --> 00:56:52.547 of some sort. 999 00:56:52.581 --> 00:56:55.481 I don't know, you know, I admire the guy 1000 00:56:55.515 --> 00:56:58.553 you know, for all the accomplishments and... 1001 00:56:58.587 --> 00:57:00.417 He's good at everything he does. 1002 00:57:00.451 --> 00:57:02.280 DANA: You guys have a similar sense of humor, too. 1003 00:57:02.315 --> 00:57:04.248 Yeah, very similar. [CHUCKLES] 1004 00:57:05.387 --> 00:57:07.700 I guess that's why we got to like each other. 1005 00:57:07.734 --> 00:57:09.771 Every time I hit a hole, 1006 00:57:09.805 --> 00:57:11.738 my head would fly out the T-top 1007 00:57:11.773 --> 00:57:14.361 and my foot would get off the gas. So, it would go... [IMITATES ENGINE WHINE] 1008 00:57:14.396 --> 00:57:16.950 And I'd land on the seat again, [IMITATES ENGINE REVVING] 1009 00:57:16.985 --> 00:57:18.296 And then you'd see it. 1010 00:57:18.331 --> 00:57:20.298 My head would come up again and gas would go off... 1011 00:57:20.333 --> 00:57:22.577 JOHN TIPICH: The way that I'd describe them is, 1012 00:57:22.611 --> 00:57:25.338 you know, they're just like... 1013 00:57:27.823 --> 00:57:30.412 They're, like, so tough on the outside. 1014 00:57:30.447 --> 00:57:32.725 But then once you crack that little surface 1015 00:57:32.759 --> 00:57:34.209 they're just mushy. 1016 00:57:34.243 --> 00:57:36.142 And, you know, they have the most, 1017 00:57:36.176 --> 00:57:39.041 uh, I hate... You know, such a... 1018 00:57:39.076 --> 00:57:42.976 stereotypical, like, macho guy attitude. 1019 00:57:43.011 --> 00:57:46.635 And then, you know, you scratch that tiny little rough surface 1020 00:57:46.670 --> 00:57:51.329 and you just get, like, a little fluffy teddy bear underneath. 1021 00:57:51.364 --> 00:57:53.677 Like a burnt marshmallow or something. 1022 00:57:57.025 --> 00:58:01.719 KENNY: Well, you go through your life, I think as much as 1023 00:58:01.754 --> 00:58:06.344 you know, it's just hard to find through your life 1024 00:58:06.379 --> 00:58:08.346 buds that have everything that... 1025 00:58:08.381 --> 00:58:11.660 That have everything that Bruce has. 1026 00:58:15.595 --> 00:58:16.769 BRUCE: And, you know... 1027 00:58:18.598 --> 00:58:22.637 When Dad was sick, he'd call about once a week 1028 00:58:22.671 --> 00:58:24.121 and checking in, you know. 1029 00:58:24.155 --> 00:58:25.536 See how he was doing. 1030 00:58:30.610 --> 00:58:33.164 KENNY: Bruce you need to do something with your dog. 1031 00:58:33.199 --> 00:58:35.028 [CHUCKLES] I don't know what to do. 1032 00:58:35.063 --> 00:58:36.651 That dog is fucked up. 1033 00:58:36.685 --> 00:58:38.860 [ALL LAUGHING] 1034 00:58:38.894 --> 00:58:40.551 And it's just like you. 1035 00:58:41.621 --> 00:58:43.554 That dog is so you. 1036 00:58:48.214 --> 00:58:52.045 DANA: In a person's life you have some friends that you keep in touch with 1037 00:58:52.080 --> 00:58:54.082 that you see all the time. 1038 00:58:57.568 --> 00:59:01.227 But some you knew very well long ago, 1039 00:59:01.261 --> 00:59:04.230 yet they'll always still be your friends. 1040 00:59:04.264 --> 00:59:07.958 That would describe my dad and Jack O'Neill. 1041 00:59:07.992 --> 00:59:08.890 -Hey! -Hey! 1042 00:59:08.924 --> 00:59:10.408 -BRUCE: Hey! -Hey! 1043 00:59:10.443 --> 00:59:11.478 Wow! 1044 00:59:11.513 --> 00:59:12.963 BRUCE: You're in your jammies. 1045 00:59:12.997 --> 00:59:15.137 Looks like everybody's here. 1046 00:59:15.172 --> 00:59:16.656 -Pretty good. -Huh? 1047 00:59:16.691 --> 00:59:18.140 Pretty good. 1048 00:59:18.175 --> 00:59:19.901 -You're still up, right? -It's been a long time. 1049 00:59:19.935 --> 00:59:22.041 -No shit. -[CHUCKLES] 1050 00:59:22.075 --> 00:59:25.078 -No jelly bean. -Come on. Come on in. 1051 00:59:25.113 --> 00:59:28.565 DANA: Jack and Dad has been friends for over half a century, 1052 00:59:28.599 --> 00:59:30.912 yet they don't see each other much. 1053 00:59:30.946 --> 00:59:33.604 But they're still like little kids when they're together. 1054 00:59:33.639 --> 00:59:37.712 And sometimes they even own the same kind of toys. 1055 00:59:37.746 --> 00:59:39.852 [SPEAKING] 1056 00:59:40.956 --> 00:59:42.095 -Right. -To shoot that. 1057 00:59:42.130 --> 00:59:43.614 Yeah. 1058 00:59:43.649 --> 00:59:45.616 DANA: A potato launcher is a cannon 1059 00:59:45.651 --> 00:59:48.446 that shoots potato sized objects. 1060 00:59:48.481 --> 00:59:49.862 I've got one I put lemons in. 1061 00:59:49.896 --> 00:59:51.173 Oh, you put lemons? 1062 00:59:51.208 --> 00:59:54.349 God, it shoots it like half a mile. It's too big. 1063 00:59:54.383 --> 00:59:57.766 And what do you make the barrel out of? 1064 00:59:57.801 --> 00:59:59.768 PAT O'NEILL: He's still a kid. WOMAN: Yeah. 1065 00:59:59.803 --> 01:00:04.462 He's got more projects going than anybody I know. 1066 01:00:04.497 --> 01:00:07.707 And I get sucked into all of them. 1067 01:00:07.742 --> 01:00:09.295 -You do? -[BOTH CHUCKLING] 1068 01:00:09.329 --> 01:00:10.641 -We all do. -We all do. 1069 01:00:10.676 --> 01:00:12.470 -But it's interesting. -But... yeah. 1070 01:00:12.505 --> 01:00:16.302 He's gonna make this one out of copper. 1071 01:00:16.336 --> 01:00:18.684 -Oh, yeah. -That PVC goes, boom! 1072 01:00:18.718 --> 01:00:21.203 CATHI O'NEILL: I think they're very humble people. 1073 01:00:21.238 --> 01:00:23.654 And they come from a time 1074 01:00:23.689 --> 01:00:26.864 when they really worked hard for what they have. 1075 01:00:26.899 --> 01:00:29.280 They followed their passion, is what they did. 1076 01:00:29.315 --> 01:00:31.282 Where now people get a little more locked up 1077 01:00:31.317 --> 01:00:33.560 having to follow 1078 01:00:33.595 --> 01:00:37.599 the focus of, you know, where others think they should be. 1079 01:00:37.634 --> 01:00:40.671 I don't think Jack and Bruce ever had that. 1080 01:00:40.706 --> 01:00:43.743 DANA: Jack O'Neill has never followed others. 1081 01:00:49.473 --> 01:00:53.339 Among his passions had been surfer, sailor, 1082 01:00:53.373 --> 01:00:57.067 sand sailor, trampoline aficionado, 1083 01:00:57.101 --> 01:00:59.103 hot air balloonist, 1084 01:00:59.138 --> 01:01:01.140 super suit pioneer, 1085 01:01:01.174 --> 01:01:05.144 house designer and business tycoon. 1086 01:01:05.178 --> 01:01:07.767 But it all started as a surf shop owner 1087 01:01:07.802 --> 01:01:11.702 who, on one occasion helped his buddy show his surf fellows. 1088 01:01:11.737 --> 01:01:14.912 JACK: I remember we took Barefoot Adventure... 1089 01:01:14.947 --> 01:01:16.258 Okay, yeah, I remember. 1090 01:01:16.293 --> 01:01:19.261 Took 'em downtown with your posters 1091 01:01:19.296 --> 01:01:21.022 withBarefoot... 1092 01:01:21.056 --> 01:01:22.851 And we went to the stock exchange. 1093 01:01:23.507 --> 01:01:25.820 We're handing 'em out there. 1094 01:01:25.854 --> 01:01:27.304 "Can we have people 1095 01:01:27.338 --> 01:01:30.548 "show up for a coast to see the surf movie?" 1096 01:01:32.309 --> 01:01:36.520 That worked out well, Bruce, I appreciate your... 1097 01:01:36.554 --> 01:01:38.936 ...giving me that opportunity. 1098 01:01:38.971 --> 01:01:41.559 I was selling suits on the side. 1099 01:01:41.594 --> 01:01:42.491 Selling what? 1100 01:01:42.526 --> 01:01:45.425 -Selling wetsuits on the side. -Yeah. 1101 01:01:46.737 --> 01:01:49.775 DANA: Jack O'Neill's name is synonymous with the wetsuit. 1102 01:01:49.809 --> 01:01:51.880 He invented the neoprene wetsuit 1103 01:01:51.915 --> 01:01:53.571 which revolutionized surfing 1104 01:01:53.606 --> 01:01:58.542 allowing surfers to ride waves anywhere in the world. 1105 01:01:58.576 --> 01:02:01.510 The O'Neill brand has grown into one of the most respected 1106 01:02:01.545 --> 01:02:04.997 and profitable in the world of surfing. 1107 01:02:05.031 --> 01:02:08.000 Jack would ultimately turn the day-to-day running of his company 1108 01:02:08.034 --> 01:02:09.656 over to his children. 1109 01:02:09.691 --> 01:02:13.143 And focus his attention to conservational efforts 1110 01:02:13.177 --> 01:02:14.592 like the Sea Odyssey. 1111 01:02:14.627 --> 01:02:17.906 A 65-foot catamaran, and organization 1112 01:02:17.941 --> 01:02:23.256 and educate the youth about the ocean and its conservation. 1113 01:02:23.291 --> 01:02:25.396 The Sea Odyssey is Jack's biggest passion. 1114 01:02:25.431 --> 01:02:27.433 The O'Neill Sea Odyssey is just something 1115 01:02:27.467 --> 01:02:31.402 that is so important to him over anything else now. 1116 01:02:31.437 --> 01:02:34.751 [JACK SPEAKING] 1117 01:02:37.305 --> 01:02:38.651 [BOTH LAUGHING] 1118 01:02:41.758 --> 01:02:46.003 CATHI: Jack always says, "I never knew that this company would become what it is." 1119 01:02:46.038 --> 01:02:49.455 And I think, Bruce, you know, they get a focus and they stick with it. 1120 01:02:49.489 --> 01:02:51.802 PAT: Well, we both think outside the box. 1121 01:02:51.837 --> 01:02:54.460 They're definitely their own breed of people. 1122 01:02:54.494 --> 01:02:56.462 I think it's probably the same mold. 1123 01:02:56.496 --> 01:03:02.295 They don't listen to anybody but themselves and do exactly what they want. 1124 01:03:02.330 --> 01:03:05.264 -I'm sure you know that as well. -Oh, yeah. 1125 01:03:05.298 --> 01:03:07.611 -You know when I think... -[DRUM BEATING] 1126 01:03:10.062 --> 01:03:12.892 He likes to play the drums. It's really good for him. 1127 01:03:12.927 --> 01:03:14.066 [ALL LAUGHING] 1128 01:03:15.343 --> 01:03:17.276 DANA: Jack O'Neill and Dad 1129 01:03:17.310 --> 01:03:18.725 are unique individuals. 1130 01:03:18.760 --> 01:03:21.452 They blaze their own trails. 1131 01:03:21.487 --> 01:03:24.145 These trails their families followed. 1132 01:03:24.179 --> 01:03:26.043 Pat runs O'Neills Sport 1133 01:03:26.078 --> 01:03:29.944 and my father somehow got me into filmmaking. 1134 01:03:32.809 --> 01:03:36.985 My dad retired from filmmaking afterOn Any Sunday. 1135 01:03:37.020 --> 01:03:38.987 He went sword fishing, 1136 01:03:39.022 --> 01:03:40.368 he collected old cars, 1137 01:03:41.714 --> 01:03:44.303 did the occasional TV commentary, 1138 01:03:44.337 --> 01:03:46.857 surfed and rode his toys. 1139 01:03:48.341 --> 01:03:50.136 I was 29, 1140 01:03:50.171 --> 01:03:54.140 when he asked me to restore his old surf films for a home video release. 1141 01:03:54.175 --> 01:03:55.590 That took me a year. 1142 01:03:55.624 --> 01:03:57.419 Then Dad unretired 1143 01:03:57.454 --> 01:03:59.836 to makeThe Endless Summer II. 1144 01:04:05.048 --> 01:04:08.879 WINGNUT WEAVER: January 16th, 1:15 in the afternoon and the phone rings, 1145 01:04:10.639 --> 01:04:12.883 and you hear this voice... 1146 01:04:12.918 --> 01:04:15.368 "This is Bruce Brown, is Wingnut there?" 1147 01:04:15.403 --> 01:04:17.094 Yeah. 1148 01:04:17.129 --> 01:04:18.889 "Well, I was thinking about doing a sequel toThe Endless Summer, 1149 01:04:18.924 --> 01:04:21.305 I wanted to know if you wanted to be one of the two guys?" 1150 01:04:21.340 --> 01:04:22.686 I was literally washing the dishes. 1151 01:04:22.720 --> 01:04:24.861 I'm like, "I got to finish the dishes, 1152 01:04:24.895 --> 01:04:27.967 "but, you know, I'm ready. I'm in!" 1153 01:04:28.002 --> 01:04:31.350 [CHUCKLES] And he's like, "No, no, we're, like, months away." 1154 01:04:31.384 --> 01:04:33.179 PAT: You got to think back then, like, 1155 01:04:33.214 --> 01:04:35.354 there was, I had an answering machine 1156 01:04:35.388 --> 01:04:36.734 that I never checked. 1157 01:04:36.769 --> 01:04:38.805 And so, the things that we used to do 1158 01:04:38.840 --> 01:04:41.912 is we used to call people and pretend we were someone else. 1159 01:04:41.947 --> 01:04:45.743 So, when your dad first called I was, like, "Bullshit." 1160 01:04:45.778 --> 01:04:47.884 Like, "Who is this?" You know? [CHUCKLES] 1161 01:04:47.918 --> 01:04:50.507 I think I may have hung up the first time. 1162 01:04:50.541 --> 01:04:51.922 And then your dad was like, 1163 01:04:51.957 --> 01:04:54.580 "Hey, you just hung up on me." [LAUGHS] 1164 01:04:54.614 --> 01:04:56.651 When we showed up for the first trip 1165 01:04:56.685 --> 01:05:00.206 going to Costa Rica, it was like, I mean, 1166 01:05:00.241 --> 01:05:01.863 1,000 pounds of luggage. 1167 01:05:01.898 --> 01:05:05.142 And I was looking just going, "Holy cow." 1168 01:05:05.177 --> 01:05:08.249 And that's when I finally realized, wow, this is really happening. 1169 01:05:08.283 --> 01:05:11.424 You know? I looked at the tickets, saw my name, I'm like, "That's right. 1170 01:05:11.459 --> 01:05:14.255 "That's right."[LAUGHS] 1171 01:05:14.289 --> 01:05:17.672 The main reason I did it was because I could work with him. 1172 01:05:17.706 --> 01:05:19.674 And the other reason was that 1173 01:05:19.708 --> 01:05:23.436 Mike Hoover was gonna be the director of photography. 1174 01:05:23.471 --> 01:05:25.093 So, I could, theoretically, 1175 01:05:25.128 --> 01:05:30.443 just sit back on my chair like a fat man and just point. 1176 01:05:30.478 --> 01:05:33.101 It didn't work out that way, but... 1177 01:05:33.136 --> 01:05:35.966 We had a great group of people. 1178 01:05:36.001 --> 01:05:39.211 PAT: Outside of, obviously, doing the film and all that stuff, 1179 01:05:39.245 --> 01:05:43.629 the very best was spending time with your dad and everyone. 1180 01:05:43.663 --> 01:05:45.458 WINGNUT: I mean, it wasn't always about the waves. 1181 01:05:45.493 --> 01:05:48.082 I mean, Bruce taught you to turn around 1182 01:05:48.116 --> 01:05:49.152 and look where you are, 1183 01:05:49.186 --> 01:05:52.017 and enjoy the experience of where you are. 1184 01:05:52.051 --> 01:05:55.123 PAT: That's what surf trips are all about, you know? 1185 01:05:55.158 --> 01:05:57.815 And so, sitting there after a day and laughing 1186 01:05:57.850 --> 01:06:01.060 whether it'd be the lions eating Wingnut's wetsuits 1187 01:06:01.095 --> 01:06:03.994 or, um, you know, just whatever it was 1188 01:06:04.029 --> 01:06:06.065 the crazy nut young days, you know, 1189 01:06:06.100 --> 01:06:08.309 every day was sort of an adventure, 1190 01:06:08.343 --> 01:06:12.554 and, you know, just laughing at the end of the day 1191 01:06:12.589 --> 01:06:15.626 about, you know, "What did we do today?" 1192 01:06:15.661 --> 01:06:17.974 Yeah, I remember like, you know, those guys would go, 1193 01:06:18.008 --> 01:06:21.563 "Hey, we're gonna go have a few beers after we're through shooting," 1194 01:06:21.598 --> 01:06:25.050 and I'd go, "Uh-huh." I just stayed by myself 1195 01:06:25.084 --> 01:06:28.156 and with my little laptop'cause I'm trying to figure out, 1196 01:06:28.191 --> 01:06:30.676 "Okay, tomorrow, what can we do..." blah, blah, blah, blah. 1197 01:06:30.710 --> 01:06:33.782 So, that's one reason why 1198 01:06:33.817 --> 01:06:36.199 I haven't made that many movies lately. 1199 01:06:36.233 --> 01:06:37.924 I just get burned out, you know? 1200 01:06:37.959 --> 01:06:42.377 I mean, if you wanna talk to me about some other subject while I'm making a movie, 1201 01:06:42.412 --> 01:06:43.827 I don't wanna talk to ya. 1202 01:06:43.861 --> 01:06:46.036 -Like, "Leave me alone, I'm thinking." -Yeah. 1203 01:06:46.071 --> 01:06:47.555 -[CHUCKLES] -Yeah. 1204 01:06:47.589 --> 01:06:49.695 Which is hard when you have a low IQ. 1205 01:06:49.729 --> 01:06:51.938 -[LAUGHS] -To be thinking. 1206 01:06:53.388 --> 01:06:57.668 DANA: The Endless Summer II was completed in 1994. 1207 01:06:57.703 --> 01:07:00.361 Dad immediately retired again. 1208 01:07:00.395 --> 01:07:01.845 No more films. 1209 01:07:01.879 --> 01:07:03.398 Though he helped me on mine, 1210 01:07:03.433 --> 01:07:06.091 always reminded me he was retired. 1211 01:07:07.333 --> 01:07:08.576 He was happy. 1212 01:07:08.610 --> 01:07:10.750 He had Mom, 1213 01:07:10.785 --> 01:07:13.753 the kids were grown, the house was to himself. 1214 01:07:13.788 --> 01:07:15.997 There would be eight grandkids he could build on, 1215 01:07:16.032 --> 01:07:19.759 and time to spend with his favorite person in the world, 1216 01:07:19.794 --> 01:07:22.417 Patricia Lee Hunter Brown. 1217 01:07:22.452 --> 01:07:24.833 They did everything together. 1218 01:07:24.868 --> 01:07:27.388 Traveled together, gardened together, 1219 01:07:27.422 --> 01:07:28.941 fishing together, 1220 01:07:28.975 --> 01:07:31.081 even rally car race together. 1221 01:07:31.116 --> 01:07:35.016 I'd bump into him at the fucking gas Chevron station in Malibu. 1222 01:07:35.051 --> 01:07:39.607 Your dad's driving a fucking Subaru WRX, you know? 1223 01:07:39.641 --> 01:07:41.712 I said, "Bruce, what are you doing?" 1224 01:07:41.747 --> 01:07:44.025 "I go rallying, I rally this thing." 1225 01:07:44.060 --> 01:07:47.511 "Bruce, you're what, 70-something years old and you're going..." 1226 01:07:47.546 --> 01:07:48.926 "Fuck yeah, I love it." 1227 01:07:48.961 --> 01:07:51.515 So, I mean, that's the way Bruce was, 1228 01:07:51.550 --> 01:07:55.450 I mean, you know, 70-years-old, he's out there fucking hanging his ass out 1229 01:07:55.485 --> 01:07:57.107 in Subarus. 1230 01:07:57.142 --> 01:07:59.799 DANA: It was truly their golden years. 1231 01:07:59.834 --> 01:08:02.285 Dad was experiencing a second childhood 1232 01:08:02.319 --> 01:08:05.840 with his favorite sidekick, his true love. 1233 01:08:28.828 --> 01:08:32.108 In 2001, Mom got cancer and beat it. 1234 01:08:32.936 --> 01:08:35.249 But late in 2005, it came back. 1235 01:08:36.042 --> 01:08:38.700 This time, there'd be no victory. 1236 01:08:39.701 --> 01:08:44.844 On February 18th, 2006, Mom passed. 1237 01:08:44.879 --> 01:08:47.295 The family lost its center, 1238 01:08:47.330 --> 01:08:50.712 and Dad lost "the" person in his life. 1239 01:08:52.197 --> 01:08:56.856 Well, everybody thought it was end of Bruce, to be honest. 1240 01:08:56.891 --> 01:08:59.031 I didn't think he was gonna make it. 1241 01:08:59.065 --> 01:09:01.309 That first year, I thought it was over. 1242 01:09:01.344 --> 01:09:04.036 He did... He had no interest 1243 01:09:04.070 --> 01:09:06.038 in trying to make it work. 1244 01:09:06.072 --> 01:09:09.145 I mean, you just watched it drain out of him. 1245 01:09:10.836 --> 01:09:14.150 DANA: The aftermath of Mom's death was tough. 1246 01:09:16.393 --> 01:09:18.637 We tried to get Dad out of the house, 1247 01:09:18.671 --> 01:09:20.880 and slowly but surely he'd come. 1248 01:09:20.915 --> 01:09:23.020 But never agreeing on a trip. 1249 01:09:24.090 --> 01:09:26.817 Finally, we got him to go on this one. 1250 01:09:27.680 --> 01:09:30.545 And, as typical family trips go, 1251 01:09:30.580 --> 01:09:33.893 you run into unexpected weather. 1252 01:09:33.928 --> 01:09:37.725 And then, enough people, everyone kept coming by, 1253 01:09:37.759 --> 01:09:39.796 you know, "We're still here. 1254 01:09:39.830 --> 01:09:41.211 "We still need you." 1255 01:09:41.246 --> 01:09:44.456 And that's where that group of friends came back 1256 01:09:44.490 --> 01:09:45.767 and made sure... 1257 01:09:46.665 --> 01:09:49.046 And he said, "Shit." [LAUGHS] 1258 01:09:49.081 --> 01:09:51.497 You know, and he had to. He had to stick around. 1259 01:09:52.947 --> 01:09:55.087 DANA: It's been... 1260 01:09:55.121 --> 01:09:58.090 when Kenny talked about Mom a little more... 1261 01:09:59.195 --> 01:10:01.887 When we were talking in this kitchen, 1262 01:10:01.921 --> 01:10:03.647 you know, I mentioned what you said 1263 01:10:03.682 --> 01:10:05.580 -about him calling. -BRUCE: Yeah. 1264 01:10:05.615 --> 01:10:08.480 He kinda, in a good way, 1265 01:10:08.514 --> 01:10:09.895 he said, "Yeah, we weren't so sure 1266 01:10:09.929 --> 01:10:13.416 "your dad was gonna make it," you know, 1267 01:10:13.450 --> 01:10:15.521 "after your mom passed." 1268 01:10:16.384 --> 01:10:17.868 But you know, you have. 1269 01:10:17.903 --> 01:10:20.043 I know. [SNIFFLES] 1270 01:10:20.077 --> 01:10:22.356 DANA: I mean, you know, 1271 01:10:22.390 --> 01:10:26.118 -it ain't easy, but you make us laugh... -[CHUCKLES] 1272 01:10:26.739 --> 01:10:28.120 Yeah. 1273 01:10:28.154 --> 01:10:29.604 DANA: You know what I mean? 1274 01:10:29.639 --> 01:10:31.123 I mean, you're still... 1275 01:10:31.157 --> 01:10:33.539 I mean, except for your fucking dog... 1276 01:10:33.574 --> 01:10:35.334 We should... 1277 01:10:35.369 --> 01:10:37.129 It's not the same. 1278 01:10:37.163 --> 01:10:38.682 DANA: No. 1279 01:10:38.717 --> 01:10:42.238 It was... It was tough. [SNIFFLING] 1280 01:10:43.480 --> 01:10:44.826 I couldn't even sleep in the... 1281 01:10:47.173 --> 01:10:48.278 [SNIFFLES] 1282 01:10:49.314 --> 01:10:50.591 DANA: Yeah. 1283 01:10:50.625 --> 01:10:52.627 I couldn't even sleep in the bedroom for like six months. 1284 01:10:52.662 --> 01:10:54.250 I slept down the hall. 1285 01:10:55.147 --> 01:10:56.182 [CHUCKLES] 1286 01:10:57.322 --> 01:10:58.495 Ah! 1287 01:11:02.258 --> 01:11:04.467 This is kinda like 60 Minutes. 1288 01:11:04.501 --> 01:11:07.124 [BRUCE AND DANA LAUGHING] 1289 01:11:07.159 --> 01:11:09.782 It's too bad there's no Barbara Walters here... 1290 01:11:09.817 --> 01:11:13.061 "Get the guy crying..." 1291 01:11:13.096 --> 01:11:15.409 DANA: That's good. He looks like hell. 1292 01:11:15.443 --> 01:11:16.824 I'm sorry. 1293 01:11:16.858 --> 01:11:19.413 BRUCE: I actually, no... DANA: I was talking about Mom earlier... 1294 01:11:19.447 --> 01:11:22.105 -BRUCE: Sometimes I handle it better than others. -Yeah. 1295 01:11:23.969 --> 01:11:26.143 ♪ You're far away 1296 01:11:28.042 --> 01:11:30.147 ♪ From me my love 1297 01:11:32.426 --> 01:11:35.152 ♪ But just as sure 1298 01:11:36.188 --> 01:11:38.915 ♪ As there are stars above 1299 01:11:38.949 --> 01:11:41.193 ♪ I know, darling 1300 01:11:41.227 --> 01:11:42.919 ♪ Someday 1301 01:11:42.953 --> 01:11:46.957 ♪ We'll be together 1302 01:11:49.719 --> 01:11:50.996 ♪ Someday 1303 01:11:51.030 --> 01:11:55.241 ♪ We'll be together 1304 01:11:57.451 --> 01:12:00.523 -♪ Long time ago -[IMPERCEPTIBLE] 1305 01:12:01.869 --> 01:12:04.458 ♪ I made a big mistake 1306 01:12:05.700 --> 01:12:07.081 ♪ Why 1307 01:12:07.806 --> 01:12:11.223 ♪ I said goodbye 1308 01:12:11.257 --> 01:12:13.329 ♪ But, oh, my darling 1309 01:12:14.399 --> 01:12:16.228 ♪ Ever 1310 01:12:16.262 --> 01:12:17.816 ♪ Ever 1311 01:12:17.850 --> 01:12:21.509 ♪ Ever since that day, babe 1312 01:12:21.544 --> 01:12:23.684 ♪ All I 1313 01:12:23.718 --> 01:12:27.826 ♪ All I do is cry 1314 01:12:27.860 --> 01:12:29.897 ♪ I just wanna tell you That I 1315 01:12:29.931 --> 01:12:32.658 ♪ I long for you 1316 01:12:35.385 --> 01:12:37.594 ♪ Every night 1317 01:12:39.009 --> 01:12:42.116 ♪ To kiss your lips 1318 01:12:42.772 --> 01:12:45.913 ♪ To hold you tight 1319 01:12:45.947 --> 01:12:47.397 ♪ I know, darling 1320 01:12:48.398 --> 01:12:49.917 ♪ Someday 1321 01:12:49.951 --> 01:12:53.299 ♪ We'll be together 1322 01:12:56.441 --> 01:12:58.063 ♪ Someday 1323 01:12:58.097 --> 01:13:01.480 ♪ We'll be together 1324 01:13:01.515 --> 01:13:04.587 ♪ Just when the moon is gonna rise 1325 01:13:04.621 --> 01:13:06.209 ♪ Someday 1326 01:13:06.243 --> 01:13:09.937 ♪ We'll be together 1327 01:13:09.971 --> 01:13:12.940 ♪ As long as stars Are in the sky 1328 01:13:12.974 --> 01:13:14.666 ♪ Someday 1329 01:13:14.700 --> 01:13:18.048 ♪ We'll be together 1330 01:13:18.083 --> 01:13:21.086 ♪ I could love you all the time 1331 01:13:21.120 --> 01:13:23.122 ♪ Someday... 1332 01:13:33.995 --> 01:13:36.584 DANA: Dad never stopped missing Mom. 1333 01:13:36.619 --> 01:13:39.207 But he still loves seeing old friends, 1334 01:13:39.242 --> 01:13:40.795 and meeting new ones. 1335 01:13:40.830 --> 01:13:45.213 In Hawaii, he became a veritable social butterfly. 1336 01:13:45.248 --> 01:13:47.423 [PEOPLE SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY] 1337 01:13:50.495 --> 01:13:52.013 WOMEN: Hi! 1338 01:13:54.015 --> 01:13:56.742 DANA: Dad's reclusiveness dissolved entirely 1339 01:13:56.777 --> 01:13:59.573 and he was the first in the car when we went to Makaha 1340 01:13:59.607 --> 01:14:02.161 to see Buffalo, and Momi Keaulana... 1341 01:14:02.196 --> 01:14:04.716 at Buffalo's Longboard contest. 1342 01:14:04.750 --> 01:14:08.651 Their's was a friendship that spans six decades. 1343 01:14:08.685 --> 01:14:12.655 You know, your father has many, many, many friends. 1344 01:14:12.689 --> 01:14:15.451 and, I says, "You know what? We don't see him very often, 1345 01:14:15.485 --> 01:14:17.660 but when we see him, it's just like yesterday. 1346 01:14:17.694 --> 01:14:19.489 [WOMAN LAUGHS] 1347 01:14:19.524 --> 01:14:22.354 So, I'd like to introduce the man himself, 1348 01:14:22.388 --> 01:14:25.840 please come up and join me, Mr. Bruce Brown. 1349 01:14:25.875 --> 01:14:30.189 DANA: He even accepted an invitation to speak at the Turtle Bay Hilton, 1350 01:14:30.224 --> 01:14:32.778 telling stories about the good old days. 1351 01:14:32.813 --> 01:14:35.436 Some of my best friends go, "That movie was a piece of crap." 1352 01:14:35.471 --> 01:14:37.438 -[AUDIENCE LAUGHS] -You know... 1353 01:14:37.473 --> 01:14:39.026 I don't know how to argue with them. 1354 01:14:39.060 --> 01:14:40.614 "It was a whole movie, what do you expect?" 1355 01:14:40.648 --> 01:14:42.132 [LAUGHS] 1356 01:14:44.549 --> 01:14:46.516 DANA: One of our last stops in Oahu 1357 01:14:46.551 --> 01:14:50.244 was at the birthplace of modern surfing, Waikiki. 1358 01:14:52.418 --> 01:14:55.214 Dad wanted to say "hi" to two old friends. 1359 01:14:55.249 --> 01:14:58.183 Fred Hemmings, former Lieutenant governor of Hawaii, 1360 01:14:58.217 --> 01:15:01.669 and Joey Cabell, founder of the Chart House restaurant. 1361 01:15:01.704 --> 01:15:06.985 The three of them had known each other as surfers long before they had real jobs. 1362 01:15:07.019 --> 01:15:10.609 ANNOUNCER: [OVER SPEAKERS] You know, I have to interrupt Jeff for a minute because... 1363 01:15:10.644 --> 01:15:12.853 How many of you remember 1364 01:15:12.887 --> 01:15:14.406 back in the '60s, 1365 01:15:14.440 --> 01:15:17.685 all the surfing films? By applause. 1366 01:15:17.720 --> 01:15:19.894 [AUDIENCE APPLAUDING] 1367 01:15:19.929 --> 01:15:21.551 I don't wanna embarrass him, 1368 01:15:21.586 --> 01:15:25.382 but one of my favorite films is a film called The Endless Summer. 1369 01:15:25.417 --> 01:15:27.246 Please welcome to our gathering today, 1370 01:15:27.281 --> 01:15:31.147 the cinematographer and creator of some great surf films, Mr. Bruce Brown. 1371 01:15:31.181 --> 01:15:33.356 [ALL APPLAUDING] 1372 01:15:33.874 --> 01:15:35.220 Wow. 1373 01:15:37.118 --> 01:15:39.224 Hey, Bruce,Aloha! 1374 01:15:39.258 --> 01:15:41.226 I have a signed poster ofThe Endless Summer. 1375 01:15:41.260 --> 01:15:43.262 Yeah...[EXCLAIMS] Terrific. 1376 01:15:43.297 --> 01:15:45.195 -[MEN LAUGH] -MAN 1: Haven't tried... 1377 01:15:45.230 --> 01:15:46.611 [BRUCE SPEAKING] 1378 01:15:48.751 --> 01:15:50.684 MAN 2: Get 'em 1379 01:15:52.617 --> 01:15:54.619 [PEOPLE LAUGH] 1380 01:15:55.136 --> 01:15:56.552 [SPEAKING] 1381 01:16:02.247 --> 01:16:03.559 [BRUCE SPEAKING] 1382 01:16:03.593 --> 01:16:04.732 [SPEAKING] 1383 01:16:05.699 --> 01:16:07.010 [BRUCE SPEAKING] 1384 01:16:07.045 --> 01:16:08.771 [DANA SPEAKING] 1385 01:16:08.805 --> 01:16:10.117 [SPEAKING] 1386 01:16:10.151 --> 01:16:11.256 BRUCE: Yeah. DANA: Yeah. [CHUCKLING] 1387 01:16:11.290 --> 01:16:13.534 See a little... That's what it's called. 1388 01:16:13.569 --> 01:16:14.362 [SPEAKING] 1389 01:16:14.397 --> 01:16:15.778 Yeah, I know, right? 1390 01:16:16.295 --> 01:16:18.504 [JOEY SPEAKING] 1391 01:16:24.510 --> 01:16:26.582 BRUCE: I think so. [CHUCKLING] 1392 01:16:26.616 --> 01:16:28.238 [SPEAKING] 1393 01:16:28.273 --> 01:16:29.481 BRUCE: That's right. 1394 01:16:29.515 --> 01:16:30.827 [SPEAKING] 1395 01:16:32.760 --> 01:16:34.417 -[BRUCE SPEAKING] -Right? 1396 01:16:45.601 --> 01:16:47.085 [SPEAKING] 1397 01:16:47.119 --> 01:16:49.328 [PEOPLE LAUGH] 1398 01:16:51.261 --> 01:16:52.918 [SPEAKING] 1399 01:16:52.953 --> 01:16:54.955 [BRUCE SPEAKING] 1400 01:17:03.619 --> 01:17:05.103 [SPEAKING] 1401 01:17:05.137 --> 01:17:06.104 [BRUCE SPEAKS] 1402 01:17:06.138 --> 01:17:07.623 [SPEAKING] 1403 01:17:07.657 --> 01:17:10.626 BRUCE: I gotta say, my number one, 1404 01:17:10.660 --> 01:17:12.317 uh... 1405 01:17:12.351 --> 01:17:15.285 surf hero of all time is Henry Preece, 1406 01:17:15.320 --> 01:17:18.185 -and... -[AUDIENCE APPLAUDING] 1407 01:17:18.219 --> 01:17:20.359 You know, when I first came here, 1408 01:17:20.394 --> 01:17:25.157 we'd go up to, you know, North Shore, it was like, "God!" It was unbelievable. 1409 01:17:25.192 --> 01:17:27.850 You go to..., it's like 25 feet, 1410 01:17:27.884 --> 01:17:30.680 but it's only like four feet to in Hawaiian. 1411 01:17:30.715 --> 01:17:32.751 [AUDIENCE LAUGHING] 1412 01:17:32.786 --> 01:17:37.480 Here's Henry. Big strapping guy. And he was, you know, quite... 1413 01:17:38.274 --> 01:17:39.827 Unlike some of us. 1414 01:17:39.862 --> 01:17:43.520 YOUNG BRUCE: In the mid-50s, when we first went to the islands, 1415 01:17:43.555 --> 01:17:45.902 some of the locals weren't too friendly. 1416 01:17:45.937 --> 01:17:49.319 Henry Preece, who was the unofficial mayor of Haleiwa, 1417 01:17:49.354 --> 01:17:53.323 befriended us and kept us alive on the North Shore. 1418 01:17:53.358 --> 01:17:55.187 One of my most vivid recollections 1419 01:17:55.222 --> 01:17:57.327 of Haleiwa was seeing Henry Preece 1420 01:17:57.362 --> 01:17:59.329 surfing a wave well over his head 1421 01:17:59.364 --> 01:18:01.504 and right in the critical spot... 1422 01:18:02.229 --> 01:18:03.955 Riding it, he turns back... 1423 01:18:10.755 --> 01:18:12.273 Blesses the wave, 1424 01:18:12.308 --> 01:18:15.311 and I'm thinking, "God, that's so cool." 1425 01:18:17.140 --> 01:18:18.694 YOUNG BRUCE: I'll never forget that. 1426 01:18:21.351 --> 01:18:25.217 Yeah, so, he's number one. We're gonna go see him in a couple of days. 1427 01:18:25.252 --> 01:18:26.702 FEMALE INTERVIEWER: That's fantastic. 1428 01:18:26.736 --> 01:18:28.669 That's great to be able to do that even after all these years 1429 01:18:28.704 --> 01:18:30.706 and have Henry Preece to still check in with. 1430 01:18:30.740 --> 01:18:32.052 -Hi. -Hey. 1431 01:18:32.086 --> 01:18:33.570 [WOMAN LAUGHS] 1432 01:18:33.605 --> 01:18:35.331 [SPEAKING] 1433 01:18:37.160 --> 01:18:38.299 Hey, how you doing? 1434 01:18:38.334 --> 01:18:39.956 Good, good to see you. 1435 01:18:39.991 --> 01:18:41.302 Good seeing ya. 1436 01:18:41.337 --> 01:18:43.822 Yeah, it's been a long time, huh, man? 1437 01:18:43.857 --> 01:18:45.065 [SPEAKING] 1438 01:18:49.517 --> 01:18:51.485 Yeah, exactly. That's what I thought. 1439 01:18:51.519 --> 01:18:53.349 Five, ten? No, '92. 1440 01:18:53.383 --> 01:18:55.385 -You've done it. -Yeah. 1441 01:18:55.420 --> 01:18:57.560 Yeah, couldn't believe when I called you, you'd go, 1442 01:18:57.594 --> 01:19:00.805 "Hey, Bruce!" Like I called you every day. 1443 01:19:00.839 --> 01:19:02.358 Come on, sit down. 1444 01:19:03.014 --> 01:19:04.567 [SPEAKING] 1445 01:19:04.601 --> 01:19:06.880 Oh, just fucking off. 1446 01:19:06.914 --> 01:19:08.329 [SPEAKING] 1447 01:19:08.364 --> 01:19:09.606 [LAUGHS] 1448 01:19:09.641 --> 01:19:11.608 [BRUCE SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY] 1449 01:19:11.643 --> 01:19:15.751 Dana's doing a, like a film where he's travelling around, I'm seeing all my old heroes, 1450 01:19:15.785 --> 01:19:17.753 -surfing and motorcycle racing. -Okay. 1451 01:19:17.787 --> 01:19:20.756 And of course,you were at the top of the list. 1452 01:19:20.790 --> 01:19:21.964 [SPEAKING] 1453 01:19:23.828 --> 01:19:25.864 -Yeah. -[LAUGHS] 1454 01:19:25.899 --> 01:19:27.279 I know. 1455 01:19:27.314 --> 01:19:29.557 Yeah... 1456 01:19:29.592 --> 01:19:32.353 Yeah, I remember we'd go to like a party or something, 1457 01:19:32.388 --> 01:19:35.529 and some Hawaiian who didn't like my looks 1458 01:19:35.563 --> 01:19:37.876 would come over towards me and you'd kinda go, 1459 01:19:38.601 --> 01:19:40.568 -and you'd... -[LAUGHS] 1460 01:19:40.603 --> 01:19:42.570 "Thanks, Henry, saved again." 1461 01:19:44.124 --> 01:19:45.608 [SPEAKING] 1462 01:19:57.275 --> 01:19:58.586 He saved my life. 1463 01:19:58.621 --> 01:20:00.796 -[ALL LAUGHING] -BRUCE: Yeah, me too. 1464 01:20:00.830 --> 01:20:02.245 More than once. 1465 01:20:02.280 --> 01:20:04.109 [SPEAKING] 1466 01:20:13.809 --> 01:20:15.017 Yeah. 1467 01:20:16.190 --> 01:20:18.468 -So, you got the big C, I heard?-Huh? 1468 01:20:18.503 --> 01:20:20.574 -You got the big C? -What is that? 1469 01:20:20.608 --> 01:20:22.231 -The cancer? -Yeah. 1470 01:20:22.265 --> 01:20:23.404 Yeah. 1471 01:20:23.439 --> 01:20:24.681 Yeah, my... 1472 01:20:24.716 --> 01:20:26.683 [SPEAKING] 1473 01:20:26.718 --> 01:20:28.133 Still look pretty good though... 1474 01:20:28.168 --> 01:20:29.790 -Yeah. -...for an old fart. 1475 01:20:29.825 --> 01:20:30.826 [SPEAKING] 1476 01:20:30.860 --> 01:20:32.137 Yeah. 1477 01:20:32.172 --> 01:20:35.451 Yeah, my wife, we went through all the fucking treatments 1478 01:20:35.485 --> 01:20:37.280 and for five years, you know, it kept, 1479 01:20:37.315 --> 01:20:38.972 "Oh, it's gone, whoops, it came back," 1480 01:20:39.006 --> 01:20:42.147 and you know, she finally passed away, so... 1481 01:20:42.182 --> 01:20:43.804 [SPEAKING] 1482 01:20:45.910 --> 01:20:46.911 Yeah? 1483 01:20:46.945 --> 01:20:48.567 [SPEAKING] 1484 01:20:49.741 --> 01:20:50.638 Yeah? 1485 01:20:51.191 --> 01:20:53.607 Yeah. 1486 01:20:53.641 --> 01:20:55.885 So, you aren't doing any treatments or anything, though? 1487 01:20:55.920 --> 01:20:57.438 Uh-huh. Huh? 1488 01:20:57.473 --> 01:20:59.302 No treatments or anything? 1489 01:20:59.337 --> 01:21:00.959 [SPEAKING] 1490 01:21:04.652 --> 01:21:07.276 Not any chemo or anything? 1491 01:21:07.310 --> 01:21:08.518 [SPEAKING] 1492 01:21:08.898 --> 01:21:09.968 Yeah. 1493 01:21:10.003 --> 01:21:10.969 [SPEAKING] 1494 01:21:11.004 --> 01:21:12.074 Yeah. 1495 01:21:19.150 --> 01:21:22.187 -We spent a lot of happy times here, huh? -Oh, yeah. 1496 01:21:24.362 --> 01:21:26.571 [HENRY SPEAKING] 1497 01:21:50.802 --> 01:21:53.978 MAN 1: You know, I always look at it as, 1498 01:21:54.012 --> 01:21:58.189 you know, one of the biggest privileges of my life 1499 01:21:58.223 --> 01:21:59.500 to get to know these guys. 1500 01:21:59.535 --> 01:22:02.193 And, everybody looks from the outside, 1501 01:22:03.435 --> 01:22:06.335 like he said, these guys were... 1502 01:22:06.369 --> 01:22:08.026 screw ups, you know? 1503 01:22:08.061 --> 01:22:09.579 But they're not. 1504 01:22:10.546 --> 01:22:12.272 They're really not. 1505 01:22:13.721 --> 01:22:15.896 MAN 2: You know, you look at those people and, uh... 1506 01:22:16.724 --> 01:22:19.693 they managed to have families 1507 01:22:19.727 --> 01:22:21.522 and grandchildren, 1508 01:22:21.557 --> 01:22:23.731 and travel through life, 1509 01:22:23.766 --> 01:22:25.526 but, you know, still take a moment 1510 01:22:25.561 --> 01:22:27.252 to laugh and share a story 1511 01:22:27.287 --> 01:22:31.015 and not forget about it, make it important, make it a part. 1512 01:22:31.049 --> 01:22:32.982 KENNY: You know, everything that me and your dad 1513 01:22:33.017 --> 01:22:34.984 has always done has just been pleasure, 1514 01:22:35.019 --> 01:22:38.022 nothing... You know, even work to us is pleasure 1515 01:22:38.056 --> 01:22:40.300 because, you know, he's gonna say something 1516 01:22:40.334 --> 01:22:41.542 or I'm gonna say something, 1517 01:22:41.577 --> 01:22:43.061 and we're all gonna start laughing. 1518 01:22:43.579 --> 01:22:44.752 MAN 1: I got to see 1519 01:22:44.787 --> 01:22:48.032 and do a lot of really neat stuff 1520 01:22:48.066 --> 01:22:49.205 with him. 1521 01:22:49.240 --> 01:22:50.655 You know, it's... 1522 01:22:50.689 --> 01:22:55.073 I mean, I'll treasure all those experiences forever. 1523 01:23:02.770 --> 01:23:04.324 DANA: Henry has passed, 1524 01:23:05.428 --> 01:23:07.465 Hobie has passed, 1525 01:23:07.499 --> 01:23:09.570 Jack O'Neill, 1526 01:23:09.605 --> 01:23:11.400 and June Lawwill have passed. 1527 01:23:11.434 --> 01:23:13.609 [SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY] 1528 01:23:17.716 --> 01:23:19.615 It doesn't last forever. 1529 01:23:20.788 --> 01:23:23.170 But a life well lived goes on and on. 1530 01:23:25.552 --> 01:23:28.106 Like a pebble dropped in the water, 1531 01:23:28.141 --> 01:23:29.245 the pebble stops 1532 01:23:29.280 --> 01:23:32.731 long before the ripples are done rolling. 1533 01:24:05.488 --> 01:24:07.214 My dad's gone now, too. 1534 01:24:08.664 --> 01:24:10.942 But his legacy lives on... 1535 01:24:11.943 --> 01:24:13.462 And so do the laughs... 1536 01:24:13.496 --> 01:24:15.464 [LAUGHING] 1537 01:24:15.498 --> 01:24:17.466 ...the smiles, 1538 01:24:17.500 --> 01:24:19.399 and the lessons we learned, 1539 01:24:19.433 --> 01:24:23.265 like, "Get your ass off the couch, and go have an adventure." 1540 01:24:24.749 --> 01:24:27.131 Hold your friends very close 1541 01:24:27.165 --> 01:24:31.031 because they provide help through life's hardships. 1542 01:24:31.066 --> 01:24:34.345 We need to make the most of our limited time here, 1543 01:24:37.175 --> 01:24:38.487 and most of all, 1544 01:24:38.521 --> 01:24:40.385 have fun, 1545 01:24:40.420 --> 01:24:42.146 and be good, 1546 01:24:42.180 --> 01:24:45.218 the best good you can. 1547 01:24:49.360 --> 01:24:52.190 YOUNG BRUCE: If you're willing to take a leap of faith, 1548 01:24:52.225 --> 01:24:53.881 get off your butt, 1549 01:24:55.435 --> 01:24:58.438 who knows how many great things are waiting in the world out there. 1550 01:25:47.418 --> 01:25:49.420 ♪ It's off to the races 1551 01:25:49.454 --> 01:25:51.974 ♪ And onto greener pastures 1552 01:25:55.115 --> 01:25:59.326 ♪ Tip-toe along through the disaster 1553 01:26:02.709 --> 01:26:04.849 ♪ And I'm all right 1554 01:26:06.161 --> 01:26:08.784 ♪ It's what I tell myself 1555 01:26:10.441 --> 01:26:14.479 ♪ This whole world keeps pushing faster 1556 01:26:22.142 --> 01:26:24.317 [PEOPLE SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY] 1557 01:26:29.149 --> 01:26:31.047 This here is Bruce Brown, 1558 01:26:31.082 --> 01:26:32.601 he is one of the greatest 1559 01:26:32.635 --> 01:26:35.431 cinematographers of that era. 1560 01:26:35.466 --> 01:26:39.090 -What do you mean, "of that era"? -[AUDIENCE LAUGHING] 1561 01:26:39.470 --> 01:26:40.850 [LAUGHING] 1562 01:26:40.885 --> 01:26:43.715 I can't agree with all this nice stuff about him. 1563 01:26:43.750 --> 01:26:45.372 BRUCE: Oh, typical Gordon, you know, 1564 01:26:45.407 --> 01:26:48.444 he's led me down the garden pathway too many times. 1565 01:26:48.479 --> 01:26:51.067 -A shithole. -[LAUGHS] 1566 01:26:53.484 --> 01:26:54.864 BRUCE: It's cold! 1567 01:26:54.899 --> 01:26:57.350 Let's go back to the house and tell jokes. 1568 01:26:57.384 --> 01:26:58.454 [ALL LAUGHING] 1569 01:26:58.489 --> 01:27:00.525 -Tell old Grubby stories. -No. 1570 01:27:00.560 --> 01:27:02.527 -NANCY: Later. Later. -This is your story right here. 1571 01:27:02.562 --> 01:27:04.391 [LAUGHING] 1572 01:27:11.398 --> 01:27:13.711 Yeah, exactly. 1573 01:27:13.745 --> 01:27:17.991 Some of the critics for both Endless Summer and On Any Sunday, 1574 01:27:18.025 --> 01:27:20.752 the reviewers hated my narration. 1575 01:27:20.787 --> 01:27:22.892 -Said it sounded like Howdy Doody. -[LAUGHS] 1576 01:27:22.927 --> 01:27:28.035 And so... So, Dana had a couple of reviews. 1577 01:27:28.070 --> 01:27:31.349 They said he sounded like Kermit the Frog. 1578 01:27:31.384 --> 01:27:34.007 So, it's like, we call each other on the phone, 1579 01:27:34.041 --> 01:27:35.733 and go, "Kermit! Howdy Doody here!" 1580 01:27:35.767 --> 01:27:37.044 Yeah. 1581 01:27:42.257 --> 01:27:46.537 ♪ Children growin' up without rules 1582 01:27:49.919 --> 01:27:54.372 ♪ It's easy to give up It's easy to give in 1583 01:27:57.410 --> 01:28:01.552 ♪ Brother, you gotta take a stand 1584 01:28:05.349 --> 01:28:07.627 ♪ Shine a light 1585 01:28:08.938 --> 01:28:11.286 ♪ Wherever you can 1586 01:28:12.390 --> 01:28:16.981 ♪ Not another robot working for the man 1587 01:28:20.605 --> 01:28:22.435 ♪ Shine a light 1588 01:28:24.471 --> 01:28:26.439 ♪ Wherever you can 1589 01:28:27.957 --> 01:28:32.514 ♪ Not another robot working for the man ♪