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Downloaded from
YTS.MX

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Official YIFY movies site:
YTS.MX

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[WAVE CRASHING]

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YOUNG BRUCE: ...and already
they'd been into
some good waves.

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They'd be into some more
good waves the next morning,

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but they couldn't
help but...

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[PIANO MUSIC PLAYING]

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[CONTINUES INDISTINCTLY]

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[MUSIC CONTINUES]

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[MUSIC CONTINUES]

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DANA: He was
a barefoot adventurer.

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An icon in surfing

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and motorcycling.

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Married the love
of this life,

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and together,
they helped create dreams...

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for millions.

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He was one of a kind...

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but friends, too many.

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He was a straight shooter
and a rough neck poet.

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His name was Bruce Brown.

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To some, a legend...

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But for me,

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he was simply...

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Dad.

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[UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING]

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MAN 1: Your dad's kind of
an institution. He's, uh...

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you know,
created lifetime memories.

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Not only for people
your age and mine, but,

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harking back
to the days of old.

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MAN 2: At one time,
there was just basically
these guys

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that were trying to make
some money,

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you know, being surfers.

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INTERVIEWER: Bruce,
how do you feel
about this question?

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I think a lot of impression
people have gotten
about surfers

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that isn't really true
is from Hollywood movies

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which are based,
like most Hollywood
movies on,

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not on fact,
but on fabrication.

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MAN 3: Nobody was doing
documentaries like that.
I mean, Bruce really

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opened up the door for

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a flood
of filmmakers to copy
what he did.

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MAN 4: I don't think
seriously I'll be doing today
what I'm doing today

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without seeing
that movie.

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I mean, I love motorcycles,
but I really got
my head into it

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and saw so many
different genres,
and...

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You know,
it showed the heart and soul
of motorcycle racers.

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MAN 5: The big story
about all of them is

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that they were the foundation
of the sport of surfing

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that's grown into
this gigantic

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mega-million dollar
industry now.

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[PEOPLE CHEERING]

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MAN 6: I think
that whole crew, it's...

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I don't think
you'll ever see
a group of

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men like that again.

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You know, they fished,
they dove, they surfed,

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they rode motorcycles,
they built things,
they designed things,

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they changed sports.

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They, you know,
they did a lot

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to that action sports industry that we grew up with,

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and now, you know, I'm sure
a lot of the young kids
don't even recognize

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what those guys did.

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MAN 7: It's just...

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Just an amazing group
of people.
I mean, just...

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No egos, just
let's have a good time.

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I feel like it was just
a group of people

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that were trying
to get the most
out of life, you know.

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[MUSIC CONTINUES]

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DANA: My dad and
his friends are called
pioneers of a lifestyle.

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A word he truly hated.

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He was about life,
and not about legend.

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INTERVIEWER: So, how...
How does that happen?

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How do you become...

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Like, how does
somebody turn into
some legend?

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Just get old.

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You get old enough,
you may become a legend.

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DANA: Despite downplaying it,
Dad's impact on pop culture
is undeniable.

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Just theEndless Summer image
alone seems to be everywhere.

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It's a towel rack.

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DANA:
His movies still sell,

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and the world over,
his work is renowned.

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BRUCE:
Or something like that..
I think it's a towel rack.

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It's a little
bit embarrassing,
I'd say.

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WOMAN: Why embarrassing?

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I don't know, you know,
it's just...

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embarrassing.

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WOMAN: I feel like
you should be proud.

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Well, you know...
I'm, you know, grateful
of course, but,

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I think I get
too much credit.

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-MAN: I agree.
-[LAUGHS]

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No, totally kidding.

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It's funny, 'cause
when you're a kid,

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you know,
your parents are like...

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furniture. They came
with the house.

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I feel like your dad grew up
but never grew up.

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There was like this
12-year-old kid

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stuck in a...
in a 70-year-old man,
like...

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He's always amazed me,
because

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all of a sudden, you know,
we couldn't even...

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I couldn't even get a date
or anything,

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and he shows up with
this beautiful woman,

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that ended up
foolishly marrying him,
and that's your mother.

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[LAUGHTER]

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If Bruce was the loud mouth,
obnoxious, rambunctious,

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you know,
full of everything,
knew it all,

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your mom was just chilling.
Goes, "Yeah, yeah,
he's full of it."

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She was just super chill.

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I told her one day.
I said, "Pat, you really
screwed my life over."

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She said,
"Why, what's wrong?"
I said, "Well,

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"you've become a role model
for every girl I meet,

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"and none of them
come up to your standards."

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GRUBBY: And I'm going, "How did he pull this one off?

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"He's just a broke little
nothing screw up."

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[LAUGHTER]

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That's what I am still
wondering 40 years.

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That was...
How'd he do this anyway?

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He's always...
He's always been that way.

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DANA: Dad's wife, my mom,

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Patricia Lee Hunter Brown,
passed away in 2006.

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Dad was alone
in their house.

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His three kids visited a lot,

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as did the eight grandkids,

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and friends, and on occasion,

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a film crew.

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Of my wife and I...

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this is one of my
favorite pictures. Makes me
look tall, that's why.

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Anyway, it's one of
my favorite photos.

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I didn't wanna
show it too much,
or I'll start crying.

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[SNIFFLES]

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[SHUTTERS OPENING]

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This is a, uh...
It's actually a '93

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Subaru Impreza.

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My wife and I,
we rallied I think for...

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Um...

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You know,
probably five years, and...

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they put your
blood type on there
in case you get hurt.

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So they know what you are.

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The first rally we ran,
my wife wasn't
a motorsports person at all.

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So I talked her into
doing the co-driver, and

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I couldn't tell, you know,
if she was
liking it or not.

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When it's over with,
I went, "Oh...

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"Do you wanna do this again?"
She goes,

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"Well, first I have to
go get a sport bra."

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[LAUGHTER]

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And most people trailer
their race cars to the rally,

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and we just drove it
on the street.
[CHUCKLES]

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My wife,
who was a great navigator,

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she'd always,
you know...

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You run these stages
and she'd go,

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"Don't forget, we gotta
drive this car home."

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It's got those
big giant lights,

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'cause some of those
days are at night.

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And... But...

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And then,
after she passed away,
I was just like nah.

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Didn't wanna do it anymore.

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DANA: After Mom passed,
Dad didn't leave
his ranch much.

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So my brother, sister and I
decided to take him
on a trip,

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and I'd make a film
of the odyssey.

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He reluctantly agreed,
as long as he could bring
his dog, Rusty.

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00:11:07,114 --> 00:11:10,428
Rusty's a good dog,
he's just a little...

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off.

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[RUSTY BARKING]

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[UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING]

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So we piled into
the motorhome,

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my brother Wade,
consummate craftsman
and musician,

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00:11:23,579 --> 00:11:27,756
sister Nancy, cowgirl,
mama bear,
and force of nature.

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Cameraman extraordinaire
Steve Matzinger,

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00:11:30,655 --> 00:11:33,693
Dad's grandson,
camera assistant John Tipich,

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00:11:33,727 --> 00:11:37,110
first time sound man,
producer Chris Husband

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and over qualified driver,
Syd Cole.

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Off we went, as Dad said,
to visit his heroes.

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The trip began
in February 2012,

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00:11:50,295 --> 00:11:52,401
Dad was 75.

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[CAMERA REEL ROLLING]

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00:11:56,888 --> 00:12:00,409
Bruce Brown was born
in Oakland in 1937,

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moved to
Long Beach, California
in 1945.

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Soon after the move,
he borrowed a neighbor's
paddle board

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and caught his first wave.

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Ran into the house,
"Mom! Mom! You won't believe
what I did!"

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00:12:13,456 --> 00:12:17,184
My mom was kinda, "Eh..."
you know, "Big deal."

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Dad was hooked and spent his high school years trying to surf all the time.

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00:12:22,431 --> 00:12:25,572
He made friends up and down
the California coast,

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with a small but enthusiastic
group of young surfers.

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who shared his same passion.

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Many of these friendships
would shape surfing

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and be bonds
that would last forever.

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00:12:37,411 --> 00:12:40,518
At the top of that list
was Hobie Alter.

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00:12:47,801 --> 00:12:51,253
Hobie wasn't just one of
Dad's oldest friends,

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00:12:51,287 --> 00:12:53,565
but at one time
he was an in-law.

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00:12:53,600 --> 00:12:56,258
Married to my mom's sister,
Nancy.

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He was Uncle Hobie.

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00:13:00,780 --> 00:13:03,817
Hobie's kids were literally
cousins to us,

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00:13:03,852 --> 00:13:05,232
good friends.

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00:13:05,267 --> 00:13:09,443
His youngest son Jeff,
and my brother Wade
are best friends.

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00:13:09,478 --> 00:13:12,067
Despite Hobie having
terminal cancer,

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00:13:12,101 --> 00:13:15,795
he welcomed us
and the cameras
to reminisce.

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00:13:16,865 --> 00:13:19,937
Well... as I was saying,

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00:13:19,971 --> 00:13:23,906
we're travelling around
with the family and
meeting all my heroes,

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00:13:23,941 --> 00:13:26,012
and you're top of the list.

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00:13:27,565 --> 00:13:31,811
Hobie was that
fantastic combination of

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00:13:31,845 --> 00:13:34,468
athlete businessman...

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00:13:34,503 --> 00:13:37,471
and, you know, future seer
if you want to go that far.

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00:13:37,506 --> 00:13:39,473
He really knew where
this was gonna end up.

202
00:13:39,508 --> 00:13:43,615
He'd just get something
on his mind and, you know,
wanted to take it...

203
00:13:43,650 --> 00:13:46,170
It wasn't about money.
It wasn't like taking it
to sell it.

204
00:13:46,204 --> 00:13:48,689
It was more about
taking it to build it,
then we'll see if it sells.

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00:13:48,724 --> 00:13:51,554
Whatever he's get into,
he would like just...

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00:13:51,865 --> 00:13:53,004
He'd go,

207
00:13:53,039 --> 00:13:55,524
"Oh, there's gotta be
a better way to do that."

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00:13:57,422 --> 00:13:59,700
Hobie always found
a better way,

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00:13:59,735 --> 00:14:05,292
from making his surfboards
to pioneering the foam blank
with Gordan "Grubby" Clark.

210
00:14:05,327 --> 00:14:09,641
It was that foam
that revolutionized
the surf industry.

211
00:14:09,676 --> 00:14:12,713
At the time when they did it,
everybody thought,
"What a joke!

212
00:14:12,748 --> 00:14:14,715
"That stuff's never
gonna work."

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00:14:14,750 --> 00:14:17,684
HOBIE: We were starting
to make foam boards.

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00:14:17,718 --> 00:14:20,756
At that time it was just magic
that you could have a board

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00:14:20,790 --> 00:14:24,898
-that's resin wood,
it was hard...
-BRUCE: Yeah. Right.

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00:14:24,933 --> 00:14:27,004
YOUNG BRUCE: Surfing has
gone though a radical change.

217
00:14:27,038 --> 00:14:29,144
It's a far cry from the solid
red wood planks

218
00:14:29,178 --> 00:14:34,390
to the modern lightweight
polyurethane foam and fiber glass surfboard of today.

219
00:14:34,425 --> 00:14:36,703
DANA: Hobie not only
revolutionized surfing,

220
00:14:36,737 --> 00:14:41,156
he also championed the new sport of skateboarding.

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00:14:41,190 --> 00:14:43,779
YOUNG BRUCE: Famous surfboard
manufacturer Hobie Alter

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00:14:43,813 --> 00:14:47,679
designed the Hobie skateboard
and organized a team
to demonstrate.

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00:14:47,714 --> 00:14:50,337
Actually what he used to say
a lot was, "Lookie here."

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00:14:50,372 --> 00:14:54,031
And when he said, "Lookie here,"you knew that something
was going on in there.

225
00:14:54,065 --> 00:14:58,276
You know, that he's gonna
make something better,

226
00:14:58,311 --> 00:15:00,244
or invent something,
or do something.

227
00:15:00,278 --> 00:15:02,039
DANA: And boy,
did he invent stuff.

228
00:15:02,073 --> 00:15:05,352
He made
catamarans, sailboats,
powerboats,

229
00:15:05,387 --> 00:15:08,183
fishing floats,
radio controlled gliders,

230
00:15:08,217 --> 00:15:10,944
and a 60 foot
luxury catamaran.

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00:15:10,979 --> 00:15:13,809
I guess you sit out there
with nothing to do
and you start thinking,

232
00:15:13,843 --> 00:15:16,467
"I can make one better
than that," and...

233
00:15:16,501 --> 00:15:18,227
So I wanted to make
a model of it.

234
00:15:18,262 --> 00:15:20,954
So I made a model,
and that would get it out
of my system, and I...

235
00:15:20,989 --> 00:15:24,889
kinda liked the model
and thought maybe
would really like a real one.

236
00:15:24,924 --> 00:15:27,409
So two and a half
years later, and

237
00:15:27,443 --> 00:15:29,652
a couple of bucks, um...

238
00:15:30,136 --> 00:15:31,620
here we are.

239
00:15:33,070 --> 00:15:35,762
BRUCE: None of us
were worth shit
at building stuff,

240
00:15:35,796 --> 00:15:38,282
so we'd always go to Hobie's,
you know, and he'd go,

241
00:15:38,316 --> 00:15:40,663
"Oh, here.
Let me do this
and that."

242
00:15:40,698 --> 00:15:43,218
DANA: Hobie often fixed
Dad's toys,

243
00:15:43,252 --> 00:15:45,427
and together,
they played a lot.

244
00:15:45,461 --> 00:15:49,258
Surfing, going out
to the desert
to race motorcycles,

245
00:15:49,293 --> 00:15:53,262
trips to Baja,
often with their
families together.

246
00:15:53,297 --> 00:15:56,162
Hobie Alter was
one of a kind.

247
00:15:56,196 --> 00:15:57,646
JEFF: He was a...

248
00:15:59,372 --> 00:16:00,890
A really...

249
00:16:02,030 --> 00:16:04,480
good, caring guy that

250
00:16:04,515 --> 00:16:07,414
wasn't really in
any kind of controversy.

251
00:16:07,449 --> 00:16:10,003
The friends that were
around him were kind of into
what he was building,

252
00:16:10,038 --> 00:16:12,592
so a lot of his whole life
was about, sort of,

253
00:16:12,626 --> 00:16:15,629
what was going on there,
and the friends kind of were

254
00:16:15,664 --> 00:16:18,011
part of his creations
in many cases.

255
00:16:19,668 --> 00:16:22,498
You invented
so many things,
so I'm wondering

256
00:16:22,533 --> 00:16:24,984
now, going through all
this cancer treatment,

257
00:16:25,018 --> 00:16:27,434
have you invented
any medical things?

258
00:16:27,469 --> 00:16:29,816
-No. [LAUGHS]
-No? Oh, Jesus.

259
00:16:29,850 --> 00:16:32,992
-You're slipping.
-I don't wanna get into
that stuff.

260
00:16:33,026 --> 00:16:35,339
[INDISTINCT CONVERSATION]

261
00:16:35,373 --> 00:16:36,996
[MELANCHOLY MUSIC PLAYING]

262
00:16:43,830 --> 00:16:45,521
[INDISTINCT CONVERSATION
CONTINUES]

263
00:16:54,910 --> 00:16:57,913
DANA: Our visit was
a few short hours,

264
00:16:57,947 --> 00:17:01,330
and when these two
lions in winter
said goodbye,

265
00:17:01,365 --> 00:17:03,608
it would be the last time.

266
00:17:04,678 --> 00:17:06,197
-Okay, Jeffery.
-WOMAN: Okay.

267
00:17:07,543 --> 00:17:09,028
Safe trip home.

268
00:17:09,062 --> 00:17:10,339
I hope so.

269
00:17:10,374 --> 00:17:12,031
WOMAN: You guys might
hit some traffic.

270
00:17:16,380 --> 00:17:18,865
[WOMAN ANNOUNCING OVER PA]

271
00:17:29,738 --> 00:17:32,913
DANA: Our trip with Dad
wasn't just in the motorhome.

272
00:17:32,948 --> 00:17:36,400
We also took him by jet
to the Hawaiian Islands.

273
00:17:36,434 --> 00:17:39,058
For Dad,
Hawaii was a special place.

274
00:17:39,092 --> 00:17:41,370
He'd been there
countless times.

275
00:17:41,405 --> 00:17:45,685
The first time was in 1956,
after graduating high school.

276
00:17:45,719 --> 00:17:51,104
You see, he forged a plan
to get to the islands
by joining the Navy.

277
00:17:51,139 --> 00:17:53,969
All he had to do was
sign up to
the Submarine Corps,

278
00:17:54,003 --> 00:17:57,973
go to Connecticut, finish first in his class at Sub School,

279
00:17:58,007 --> 00:18:01,287
and then he'd get
to pick the port
he was stationed.

280
00:18:01,321 --> 00:18:04,221
Incredibly, he did just that.

281
00:18:11,952 --> 00:18:17,475
When the Admiral presented him with the option to serve on
the first US Nuclear Sub,

282
00:18:17,510 --> 00:18:23,240
Dad turned it down
for a sub in Dry Dock
in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii.

283
00:18:23,274 --> 00:18:25,034
This was his dream.

284
00:18:26,277 --> 00:18:28,072
He served two years,

285
00:18:28,107 --> 00:18:30,902
much of it on a sub
spending months at sea.

286
00:18:30,937 --> 00:18:33,629
But he also spent
months in Hawaii,

287
00:18:33,664 --> 00:18:38,807
surfing and on the beach
with his 8mm camera.

288
00:18:38,841 --> 00:18:42,604
After two years, he came back
to San Clemente, California,

289
00:18:42,638 --> 00:18:44,813
and got an offer to do
a surf film.

290
00:18:44,847 --> 00:18:48,644
Dale Vulzi, surf shop owner,
put up the money.

291
00:18:48,679 --> 00:18:51,440
He went back to Hawaii,
and it was there,

292
00:18:51,475 --> 00:18:54,788
filming his first movie,
he would reconnect
with my mother,

293
00:18:54,823 --> 00:18:57,308
who was going to
the University of Hawaii.

294
00:18:57,343 --> 00:19:01,381
They'd meet, and it became
a love story for the ages.

295
00:19:05,834 --> 00:19:09,976
Their first date was in
December of 1958.

296
00:19:10,010 --> 00:19:14,187
They got married
in June of 1959,

297
00:19:14,222 --> 00:19:18,364
and by December of 1959,
they had a child...

298
00:19:19,365 --> 00:19:20,952
me.

299
00:19:20,987 --> 00:19:25,474
I remember sitting
in their room, they were
both on the couch,

300
00:19:25,509 --> 00:19:26,958
smooching and watching TV,

301
00:19:26,993 --> 00:19:28,891
and I'm in there
watching TV with them,
you know...

302
00:19:29,685 --> 00:19:31,894
It was just like
a family affair.

303
00:19:31,929 --> 00:19:33,827
I mean, from...
from what I got to see,

304
00:19:33,862 --> 00:19:38,280
they had
the perfect partnership
and relationship,

305
00:19:38,315 --> 00:19:43,182
'cause Bruce always knew
everything was gonna be
okay at home.

306
00:19:43,216 --> 00:19:47,220
DANA: Dad was 22 and had
a family to support,

307
00:19:47,255 --> 00:19:50,189
so he threw himself
into filmmaking.

308
00:19:54,054 --> 00:19:58,231
YOUNG BRUCE: The dream for most
Californian surfers was
go to the islands to surf.

309
00:20:01,510 --> 00:20:05,204
North Shore of the island of Oahu was the ultimate place.

310
00:20:10,899 --> 00:20:13,522
DANA: Every year,
he would film
for four months,

311
00:20:13,557 --> 00:20:17,871
edit for four months, and then show the finished film for four months.

312
00:20:17,906 --> 00:20:20,219
Then start all over again.

313
00:20:21,047 --> 00:20:24,223
Surf Crazy,
Barefoot Adventure,

314
00:20:24,257 --> 00:20:26,052
Surfing Hollow Days,

315
00:20:26,086 --> 00:20:27,295
Water-Logged.

316
00:20:29,089 --> 00:20:31,057
PAT: That was
pretty adventurous.
I mean,

317
00:20:31,091 --> 00:20:34,129
people were living in vans
and vacant lots.

318
00:20:35,475 --> 00:20:39,134
It was a frontier like
for California surfers.

319
00:20:46,072 --> 00:20:49,731
DANA: They were surfers
and lived pretty barebones,

320
00:20:49,765 --> 00:20:51,905
but Dad had
a wife and a kid,

321
00:20:51,940 --> 00:20:54,080
so making a living
was important,

322
00:20:54,114 --> 00:20:57,428
and it would turn out,
a family affair.

323
00:20:57,463 --> 00:21:01,812
And by the way,
that's how they work,
Bruce and Pat.

324
00:21:01,846 --> 00:21:05,264
Pat would run the projector,
Bruce would narrate.

325
00:21:05,298 --> 00:21:08,267
YOUNG BRUCE: These waves have
a tremendous amount of power.

326
00:21:08,301 --> 00:21:10,752
When you get wiped out
and held under
the white water,

327
00:21:10,786 --> 00:21:14,307
you sometimes stay down,
two... three weeks.

328
00:21:14,342 --> 00:21:17,793
Now understand,
he's in the dark,
up there on stage,

329
00:21:17,828 --> 00:21:20,037
narrating this movie, live.

330
00:21:23,143 --> 00:21:24,283
No script...

331
00:21:25,594 --> 00:21:27,941
It's pure entertainment.

332
00:21:28,977 --> 00:21:32,946
It was Kailua,
in 1962,

333
00:21:32,981 --> 00:21:36,950
and it was the most
incredible thing
I'd ever seen.

334
00:21:37,399 --> 00:21:38,711
Bruce was funny.

335
00:21:38,745 --> 00:21:42,680
What I was seeing
was larger than life,
all over the place.

336
00:21:42,715 --> 00:21:45,614
YOUNG BRUCE: When it's big
at sunset, you see surfers paddling madly

337
00:21:45,649 --> 00:21:48,514
for the horizon,
trying to get over
the advancing wave.

338
00:21:50,999 --> 00:21:54,589
Forty pound boards
tossed around
like match sticks.

339
00:21:54,623 --> 00:21:57,316
Ricky Grigg body surfing
Waimea.

340
00:22:00,560 --> 00:22:02,251
Joey Cabell...

341
00:22:16,473 --> 00:22:19,165
This is Bruce Brown,
thank you for watching.

342
00:22:19,199 --> 00:22:20,891
I hope you enjoyed
my film.

343
00:22:22,237 --> 00:22:24,826
JACK: I didn't want
the evening to end.

344
00:22:24,860 --> 00:22:27,725
I was mesmerized
by the sky.

345
00:22:27,760 --> 00:22:30,659
And as I went home
that night,

346
00:22:30,694 --> 00:22:32,178
I couldn't help but think,

347
00:22:32,212 --> 00:22:35,388
what an incredible
experience I'd had.

348
00:22:35,423 --> 00:22:38,564
And I figured out later,
many years later,

349
00:22:38,598 --> 00:22:42,844
what it was and that was...
Here was someone
who was actually,

350
00:22:42,878 --> 00:22:46,986
really, really in love
with what he was doing.

351
00:22:47,020 --> 00:22:52,060
But he enjoyed
more than anything, of sharing
the stoke of surfing.

352
00:23:00,620 --> 00:23:02,795
Early on, usually,
you know...

353
00:23:02,829 --> 00:23:05,729
five or six or more guys,

354
00:23:05,763 --> 00:23:06,902
rent a home.

355
00:23:06,937 --> 00:23:10,492
Back then, almost
nothing was in advance.

356
00:23:11,769 --> 00:23:13,322
Half the houses were vacant.

357
00:23:13,357 --> 00:23:15,428
So you just go
knock on the door
and go,

358
00:23:15,463 --> 00:23:18,155
"This place for rent?
Oh, that one down there."

359
00:23:20,019 --> 00:23:21,710
Fifty bucks, sixty bucks.

360
00:23:21,745 --> 00:23:23,781
MAN: So that's what you do
when you first
got off the plane?

361
00:23:23,816 --> 00:23:26,128
-You'd come out here,
and knock on doors...
-Yeah.

362
00:23:26,163 --> 00:23:27,958
Yep. Stop by a goodwill,

363
00:23:27,992 --> 00:23:29,994
and get, you know, mattress,

364
00:23:30,029 --> 00:23:32,756
and pots and pans and stuff.

365
00:23:32,790 --> 00:23:36,311
And then, you know,
buy a $50 car

366
00:23:37,795 --> 00:23:40,280
and head out here.

367
00:23:40,315 --> 00:23:43,111
But you know, you could come
over here with $100 and

368
00:23:43,145 --> 00:23:45,147
stay for a month.

369
00:23:45,182 --> 00:23:47,426
And then, the North Shore
was like paradise.

370
00:23:48,185 --> 00:23:50,670
[PLEASANT MUSIC PLAYING]

371
00:23:51,878 --> 00:23:53,846
DANA: Today,
the North Shore has become

372
00:23:53,880 --> 00:23:55,986
the epicenter
of the surfing world.

373
00:23:58,022 --> 00:24:01,612
Its famous stretch
of coastline known as
the Seven Mile Miracle,

374
00:24:01,647 --> 00:24:04,339
is home to some of
the best waves on the planet.

375
00:24:05,478 --> 00:24:08,274
Professional surfers
from across the globe

376
00:24:08,308 --> 00:24:10,794
come here every winter,
to prove their worth

377
00:24:10,828 --> 00:24:13,348
amongst these
world class waves.

378
00:24:15,143 --> 00:24:17,456
BRUCE: Yeah, back in
the late '50s, early '60s,

379
00:24:17,490 --> 00:24:19,319
this was like
a ghost town.

380
00:24:19,354 --> 00:24:22,530
Last time I was here,
was '92 or something.

381
00:24:22,564 --> 00:24:25,498
And it's even changed
a lot since then.

382
00:24:25,533 --> 00:24:27,396
I mean,
who would have thought
you'd have to

383
00:24:27,431 --> 00:24:29,364
have a hard time
find a parking place

384
00:24:29,398 --> 00:24:31,711
on Kamehameha Highway
on the North Shore.

385
00:24:31,746 --> 00:24:33,057
[LAUGHING]

386
00:24:33,092 --> 00:24:35,957
It's amazing.

387
00:24:35,991 --> 00:24:39,961
DANA: One thing
that hasn't changed
is the waves.

388
00:24:39,995 --> 00:24:43,999
Many of these breaks have
the same names they had
when Dad was here.

389
00:24:44,034 --> 00:24:46,692
In fact, he named a few.

390
00:24:46,726 --> 00:24:50,005
North Shore resident and old friend, Mike Slattery,

391
00:24:50,040 --> 00:24:52,387
took us to
one of those breaks,
Velzyland.

392
00:24:52,421 --> 00:24:53,526
YOUNG BRUCE:
Once the weather
cleared up,

393
00:24:53,561 --> 00:24:55,355
a couple of surfers
got together,

394
00:24:55,390 --> 00:24:59,359
heading out toward Velzyland,
a place
they discovered earlier.

395
00:24:59,394 --> 00:25:02,362
Here's friendly surfer
Kemp Aaberg,

396
00:25:02,397 --> 00:25:04,364
friendly surfer
Dewey Weber.

397
00:25:04,399 --> 00:25:06,366
Think they've got
a signed-on agreement

398
00:25:06,401 --> 00:25:08,921
that some competition
between the two is in order.

399
00:25:08,955 --> 00:25:10,819
So that view
that you're
talking about,

400
00:25:10,854 --> 00:25:12,511
it's kind of where the...

401
00:25:12,545 --> 00:25:14,685
Right about where the people
are standing on the beach
just down here...

402
00:25:14,720 --> 00:25:18,275
BRUCE:
And Dewey Weber takes off on the first wave at Velzyland.

403
00:25:18,309 --> 00:25:21,692
Uh, well, it was
like nobody surfed
this place before.

404
00:25:21,727 --> 00:25:24,384
So, you know,
we got pictures of it...

405
00:25:24,419 --> 00:25:27,422
You know, on a movie like
in '58 or something.

406
00:25:28,734 --> 00:25:30,874
And, you know,
I just named it
Velzyland because

407
00:25:30,908 --> 00:25:34,256
Velzy sponsored
my first movie.

408
00:25:34,291 --> 00:25:37,536
And for some reason,
Velzyland stuck.

409
00:25:37,570 --> 00:25:38,744
And Pipeline, so.

410
00:25:38,778 --> 00:25:41,263
[UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING]

411
00:25:46,614 --> 00:25:49,755
DANA: That's right.
Dad named Pipeline.

412
00:25:51,170 --> 00:25:53,586
Pipeline,
and no matter where you go
in the world,

413
00:25:53,621 --> 00:25:55,105
that is the event.

414
00:25:55,139 --> 00:25:57,314
That's the one that
you want to come to.
That's where you want to be.

415
00:25:58,936 --> 00:26:00,800
DANA:
This is the Super Bowl.

416
00:26:00,835 --> 00:26:04,286
This is the wave that launched a million dreams.

417
00:26:05,909 --> 00:26:07,635
[UPBEAT MUSIC CONTINUES]

418
00:26:22,788 --> 00:26:25,514
BRUCE:
There's hardly any waves
that go on a route.

419
00:26:25,549 --> 00:26:28,276
-I think I saw two...
-[ALL LAUGHING]

420
00:26:28,310 --> 00:26:29,864
...in three days.

421
00:26:31,659 --> 00:26:34,247
DANA: Dad was there
at the beginning.

422
00:26:34,282 --> 00:26:38,113
In the winter of 1961,
he filmed Phil Edwards,

423
00:26:38,148 --> 00:26:41,565
ride a wave
considered unrideable.

424
00:26:44,050 --> 00:26:45,293
DANA: You guys
must have looked at it.

425
00:26:45,327 --> 00:26:47,191
BRUCE: Oh, yeah.
Looked at it all the time.

426
00:26:47,226 --> 00:26:50,298
You know, 'cause like,
you could die.

427
00:26:51,644 --> 00:26:55,786
[WAVES THUNDERING]

428
00:26:55,821 --> 00:26:58,686
DANA: Now you take
a long look before you think
about going out

429
00:26:58,720 --> 00:27:01,102
and riding a wave
that looked like that,

430
00:27:01,136 --> 00:27:02,344
anywhere.

431
00:27:02,379 --> 00:27:05,278
Take into consideration
what was on the bottom,

432
00:27:05,313 --> 00:27:07,660
and that it had never
been done before.

433
00:27:07,695 --> 00:27:11,215
Took a lot of nerve
and lot of skill.

434
00:27:11,250 --> 00:27:15,392
Phil decided to paddle out
and take a closer look
at one of these waves.

435
00:27:15,426 --> 00:27:16,773
He paddled out,
turned around,

436
00:27:16,807 --> 00:27:18,982
and took off on the first wave that came through.

437
00:27:19,016 --> 00:27:22,986
Watch this phenomenal ride.
Phil Edwards gets
the Pipeline in Hawaii.

438
00:27:23,020 --> 00:27:26,645
[POP MUSIC PLAYING]

439
00:27:31,684 --> 00:27:34,135
BRUCE: [CLEARS THROAT]
Phil went out,
caught one wave,

440
00:27:34,169 --> 00:27:35,170
came in,
said, "That's enough."

441
00:27:35,205 --> 00:27:37,034
[all laughing]

442
00:27:37,069 --> 00:27:39,002
Like what often happens
with a new spot,

443
00:27:39,036 --> 00:27:42,350
when one person tries it,
other surfers will go out
and also try it.

444
00:27:42,384 --> 00:27:46,388
Dave Willingham paddled out
the Pipeline
later in the afternoon...

445
00:27:47,389 --> 00:27:49,012
Mike Hynson from
La Jolla taking off,

446
00:27:49,046 --> 00:27:53,016
couldn't believe his eyes
on this wave
when he looked down.

447
00:27:53,050 --> 00:27:57,192
Not long after,
yeah, whole bunch
of guys come in

448
00:27:57,227 --> 00:27:58,849
and going over the falls.

449
00:27:58,884 --> 00:28:00,851
And they were caught
in a horrible wave,
like you can imagine.

450
00:28:00,886 --> 00:28:03,785
Nobody got hurt.
It was kinda like,
"Oh, okay, well..."

451
00:28:05,787 --> 00:28:08,583
DANA:
And for generations,
they followed,

452
00:28:08,617 --> 00:28:11,620
coming to test themselves
at Pipeline.

453
00:28:11,655 --> 00:28:15,245
Some on boards, others,
with cameras.

454
00:28:15,279 --> 00:28:18,627
Like Don King, arguably the most sought-after

455
00:28:18,662 --> 00:28:22,010
and successful
water cinematographer
in the world,

456
00:28:22,045 --> 00:28:25,911
who worked with Dad
early in his career on
The Endless Summer 2.

457
00:28:27,740 --> 00:28:31,226
Yeah, just seeing you
again is
kind of reminding me of

458
00:28:31,261 --> 00:28:33,366
when we were
filming Endless Summer,

459
00:28:33,401 --> 00:28:35,610
and at the time,
you know,

460
00:28:35,644 --> 00:28:38,578
you were
a legend to me, because
when I was growing up,

461
00:28:38,613 --> 00:28:41,581
your films were
on the big screen then.

462
00:28:41,616 --> 00:28:43,963
As a family, we we'd go
to the drive-in theater.

463
00:28:43,998 --> 00:28:48,554
We watched The Endless Summer,
and we watched On Any Sunday,

464
00:28:48,588 --> 00:28:51,419
and those films made
a big impression on me.

465
00:28:51,453 --> 00:28:52,903
And I just loved
watching those films.

466
00:28:52,938 --> 00:28:55,906
I didn't know at that pointthat I wanted to be a filmmaker,

467
00:28:55,941 --> 00:29:00,911
but the way you showed it
made it
really fun and interesting.

468
00:29:00,946 --> 00:29:04,812
I wanna say thank you
for all the inspiration,

469
00:29:04,846 --> 00:29:07,607
and for
the great opportunity
that you gave me

470
00:29:07,642 --> 00:29:10,610
at such
a pivotal time for me,

471
00:29:10,645 --> 00:29:13,786
and, you know,
you really helped
my career,

472
00:29:13,821 --> 00:29:17,100
and helped make my
whole life a better thing.

473
00:29:17,134 --> 00:29:19,619
-Well, thank you.
-Yeah, yeah.

474
00:29:19,654 --> 00:29:22,450
-You're very, very kind.
-[ALL LAUGHING]

475
00:29:22,484 --> 00:29:25,073
[INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC PLAYING]

476
00:29:25,108 --> 00:29:28,352
DANA: Dad had many friends
from many walks of life.

477
00:29:28,387 --> 00:29:31,597
And everyone came by
for a visit.

478
00:29:31,631 --> 00:29:33,564
[INDISTINCT CONVERSATION]

479
00:29:40,019 --> 00:29:41,503
[LAUGHING]

480
00:29:42,573 --> 00:29:46,785
-[INDISTINCT CONVERSATION]
-[PEOPLE LAUGHING]

481
00:29:48,510 --> 00:29:50,823
DANA: Mark Martinson
is a surf legend.

482
00:29:50,858 --> 00:29:53,481
One of the best
of the '60s,
and in the '70s,

483
00:29:53,515 --> 00:29:55,828
he worked on Dad's
sword fishing boat,

484
00:29:55,863 --> 00:29:59,832
slept in Wade and I's bedroom, right between the beds.

485
00:29:59,867 --> 00:30:04,216
We called him
Shrimpenstein Brown
our long-lost older brother

486
00:30:04,250 --> 00:30:05,734
[MO LAUGHING]

487
00:30:05,769 --> 00:30:10,498
I got this guy laughing finally.I've been trying all evening.

488
00:30:10,532 --> 00:30:13,673
DANA: Mo Angel is the widow
of surf legend Jose Angel,

489
00:30:14,226 --> 00:30:16,159
who drowned in 1976.

490
00:30:16,193 --> 00:30:19,990
Dad and Jose had been friends
since his days in the Navy.

491
00:30:20,025 --> 00:30:23,683
Still, when Mo and Dad
get together,
they act like teenagers.

492
00:30:23,718 --> 00:30:26,031
There you go.
Now we'll start all over.

493
00:30:26,065 --> 00:30:27,549
[ALL LAUGHING]

494
00:30:27,584 --> 00:30:29,655
These family legacies continue.

495
00:30:29,689 --> 00:30:33,348
Jose's son Johnny Angel
is a North Shore life guard.

496
00:30:33,383 --> 00:30:36,386
A true water man
and a truly funny man.

497
00:30:37,836 --> 00:30:41,840
Long board legend Joel Tudor
also came by
to share a few laughs.

498
00:30:43,462 --> 00:30:47,362
Joel brought his friend
and prodigy Harrison Roach.

499
00:30:47,397 --> 00:30:51,953
Harrison is barely
in his 20's,
but a huge fan of Dad's.

500
00:30:53,921 --> 00:30:55,681
[ALL LAUGHING]

501
00:30:55,715 --> 00:30:57,027
[INDISTINCT CHATTERING]

502
00:30:57,062 --> 00:30:59,927
DANA: One more. One more.
Here we go.
One, two, three.

503
00:30:59,961 --> 00:31:02,032
[CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKING]

504
00:31:02,067 --> 00:31:05,760
DANA: In Hawaii, we stayed
in one place and people came
to us.

505
00:31:07,935 --> 00:31:11,214
Our trip on the West Coast,
we travelled to them.

506
00:31:11,248 --> 00:31:13,457
[UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING]

507
00:31:16,219 --> 00:31:19,222
Over 1,000 miles
in the motorhome.

508
00:31:19,256 --> 00:31:21,638
With Wade, Nancy...

509
00:31:22,259 --> 00:31:23,778
Fine dining.

510
00:31:24,813 --> 00:31:29,197
Smoke breaks
every 15 miles.
And Rusty.

511
00:31:29,232 --> 00:31:32,960
Shedding, peeing,
and humping.

512
00:31:32,994 --> 00:31:36,066
DANA: Next road trip,
the dog's staying home.

513
00:31:36,101 --> 00:31:37,930
We were visiting friends.

514
00:31:37,965 --> 00:31:40,726
Some, Dad had known
for over half a century.

515
00:31:40,760 --> 00:31:43,246
Like Gordon Grubby Clark.

516
00:31:43,280 --> 00:31:44,937
BRUCE: Hey, old fart.
GRUBBY: Hey.

517
00:31:44,972 --> 00:31:47,112
God, you look just like
I remember you.

518
00:31:49,459 --> 00:31:50,736
Come here.

519
00:31:50,770 --> 00:31:53,083
No. You're trying to steal...
Trying to scare me.

520
00:31:53,118 --> 00:31:54,947
I'm staying with my people.

521
00:31:54,982 --> 00:31:56,845
[LAUGHTER]

522
00:31:58,088 --> 00:32:01,781
DANA: Gordon "Grubby" Clark,
the Henry Ford of surfing.

523
00:32:01,816 --> 00:32:06,648
Grubby invented the foam that
all surfboards are made from.

524
00:32:06,683 --> 00:32:10,169
Grubby is a true titan
in surfing,
but very private,

525
00:32:10,204 --> 00:32:14,139
and often portrayed
in the media
as a barefoot robber baron.

526
00:32:14,656 --> 00:32:17,970
[DANA SPEAKING]

527
00:32:18,005 --> 00:32:19,144
Everything.

528
00:32:20,283 --> 00:32:21,594
That's a good answer.

529
00:32:21,629 --> 00:32:24,011
Can we go to a another line
of questioning?

530
00:32:24,045 --> 00:32:26,289
[GRUBBY LAUGHING]

531
00:32:26,323 --> 00:32:30,086
He has this
public image that...

532
00:32:30,120 --> 00:32:33,468
really isn't anything
like the real person.

533
00:32:33,503 --> 00:32:36,471
Very few people know that,
but...

534
00:32:36,506 --> 00:32:39,302
We go along with
the public image

535
00:32:39,336 --> 00:32:41,752
-to encourage it
as much as possible.
-[ALL LAUGHING]

536
00:32:42,857 --> 00:32:47,482
But there's a real
sweet, warm,

537
00:32:47,517 --> 00:32:49,553
real person under it all.

538
00:32:49,588 --> 00:32:55,525
Like, Grubby would donate
a bunch of money
to different surfing things,

539
00:32:55,559 --> 00:32:58,493
but he never let them say
where it came from.

540
00:32:58,528 --> 00:33:00,185
'Cause, you know,
so everybody
would say,

541
00:33:00,219 --> 00:33:01,841
"God, Grubby is
really a bad guy

542
00:33:01,876 --> 00:33:03,912
"and never putting anything
back in the sport."

543
00:33:03,947 --> 00:33:05,155
Which wasn't true.

544
00:33:05,190 --> 00:33:08,296
But he would not...
He wouldn't defend himself.

545
00:33:08,331 --> 00:33:13,336
He'd just makes some comment,
you know, some rash comment.

546
00:33:13,370 --> 00:33:15,855
[BLUES MUSIC PLAYING]

547
00:33:17,719 --> 00:33:19,204
But he can also
drive you nuts.

548
00:33:20,205 --> 00:33:21,585
You know, I mean?

549
00:33:22,241 --> 00:33:24,002
GRUBBY: Here he is.

550
00:33:24,036 --> 00:33:26,142
The old man
with the bad teeth.

551
00:33:26,176 --> 00:33:27,074
[WADE LAUGHING]

552
00:33:27,108 --> 00:33:28,109
BRUCE: Bad teeth?

553
00:33:28,868 --> 00:33:31,078
Hey, my man.
How are you?

554
00:33:35,082 --> 00:33:36,117
Good to see you.

555
00:33:37,084 --> 00:33:38,188
[SPEAKING]

556
00:33:38,223 --> 00:33:39,569
Yeah.

557
00:33:41,916 --> 00:33:44,401
[ALL LAUGHING]

558
00:33:44,436 --> 00:33:46,162
What are you doing here?

559
00:33:46,196 --> 00:33:49,579
How did they get you...
How did they get you out?

560
00:33:50,166 --> 00:33:51,305
Huh?

561
00:33:51,339 --> 00:33:52,375
WOMAN: How's it going?

562
00:33:52,409 --> 00:33:54,722
BRUCE: Good.
WOMAN: Nice to see you.

563
00:33:54,756 --> 00:33:56,862
Uh-Oh! Hey, Hey, Hey.

564
00:33:57,380 --> 00:33:59,899
Oh, God!

565
00:33:59,934 --> 00:34:03,006
Your dog just pissed
on my couch.

566
00:34:03,041 --> 00:34:03,834
It's okay.

567
00:34:03,869 --> 00:34:04,870
I'm gonna give you
a paper towel.

568
00:34:04,904 --> 00:34:06,768
You can go clean it up
right away.

569
00:34:06,803 --> 00:34:10,013
I was trying to get him
to wee-wee earlier.

570
00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:13,913
Right there. My couch.
My couch,
go clean it up.

571
00:34:13,948 --> 00:34:17,089
-Where is it?
-GRUBBY: Right in
the corner of the couch.

572
00:34:17,124 --> 00:34:19,678
-Where?
-GRUBBY: Your dog
reflects its master.

573
00:34:19,712 --> 00:34:20,955
[ALL LAUGHING]

574
00:34:20,989 --> 00:34:23,613
Right here.
Right in that corner.
Right there.

575
00:34:24,579 --> 00:34:26,064
-Right there.
-Oh!

576
00:34:27,203 --> 00:34:28,721
No, no, no, no.
Come on.

577
00:34:28,756 --> 00:34:30,792
Can you believe that?

578
00:34:30,827 --> 00:34:34,589
Already you've
done something wrong.

579
00:34:34,624 --> 00:34:37,972
[ALL LAUGHING]

580
00:34:38,006 --> 00:34:40,802
-WOMAN: Absolutely not.
-[DOG BARKING]

581
00:34:41,734 --> 00:34:43,771
DANA:
Beyond being old friends,

582
00:34:43,805 --> 00:34:47,085
we'd been neighbors of
Grubby in the early '60s.

583
00:34:47,119 --> 00:34:50,226
How long
you been living here?

584
00:34:50,260 --> 00:34:53,091
Little over a year.
Did you see the picture?

585
00:34:53,125 --> 00:34:55,300
-BRUCE: What picture?
-Come here.

586
00:34:56,646 --> 00:34:59,373
I saved this on my wall
just to show it to you.

587
00:34:59,407 --> 00:35:02,721
You can see
how nice I was looking
and how shitty you were.

588
00:35:02,755 --> 00:35:05,137
[ALL LAUGHING]

589
00:35:05,172 --> 00:35:08,106
-There's how I lived.
That was my house.
-No, that...

590
00:35:08,140 --> 00:35:11,557
Bullshit. That's it.
Look, right there,
look at there.

591
00:35:11,592 --> 00:35:13,973
-Oh, that there? Yeah.
-Yeah, see, there it is.

592
00:35:14,008 --> 00:35:16,390
-Didn't look like that when
you lived there at all.
-Yes, it did.

593
00:35:16,424 --> 00:35:18,150
-Bullshit.
-Even better, it was new.

594
00:35:18,185 --> 00:35:22,258
-No.
-Yes, it did. This room was all
just exactly like how it is.

595
00:35:22,292 --> 00:35:24,398
There was all gym socks...

596
00:35:24,432 --> 00:35:27,470
No, that's how it looked,
and that's how it looks now.

597
00:35:27,504 --> 00:35:30,024
No, no.
No, not even is.

598
00:35:30,058 --> 00:35:32,992
Look how much they're
selling it for.
$10.10 million.

599
00:35:33,027 --> 00:35:36,237
That's not it.
That's not it.
That's not even it.

600
00:35:36,272 --> 00:35:38,757
-That's not even your house.
-That is. Right there.

601
00:35:38,791 --> 00:35:40,966
-No!
-That's the upstairs bedroom.

602
00:35:41,000 --> 00:35:43,106
It was just like a one
little thing.

603
00:35:43,141 --> 00:35:47,179
No, there was an upstairs,
and we slept up here
and down here.

604
00:35:47,214 --> 00:35:49,492
-You can't remember.
-[DOG WHIMPERING]

605
00:35:49,526 --> 00:35:52,322
Gosh, damn it.
That's terrible when
you can't remem...

606
00:35:52,357 --> 00:35:54,117
No, they remodeled the thing.

607
00:35:54,152 --> 00:35:56,706
It's terrible when
you're old like this.

608
00:35:56,740 --> 00:35:58,846
-That is it.
-That is it.

609
00:35:58,880 --> 00:36:00,641
DANA: It's too small.
That is too small.

610
00:36:00,675 --> 00:36:04,369
Oh, you can read still?
Oh, that's good.
You haven't lost it completely.

611
00:36:04,403 --> 00:36:07,130
DANA: Grubby,
when you lived there,
was the floor...

612
00:36:07,165 --> 00:36:11,203
there was like
slat in the floor
so the carpet or the...

613
00:36:11,238 --> 00:36:14,482
-No, no, no, no.
-What do you mean "no"?

614
00:36:14,517 --> 00:36:18,624
You'd come and sleep
in our house
with the window broke...

615
00:36:18,659 --> 00:36:20,695
Below that window...

616
00:36:20,730 --> 00:36:22,041
Scared the carp out of me.

617
00:36:22,076 --> 00:36:26,356
Remember the time
I vanished?
Was shaking so bad.

618
00:36:26,391 --> 00:36:30,049
DANA: Grubby and Dad
have always
had this relationship.

619
00:36:30,084 --> 00:36:31,775
An odd couple.

620
00:36:31,810 --> 00:36:35,710
Dating back to before either
one of them was a filmmaker,
or a board maker,

621
00:36:35,745 --> 00:36:40,025
back when Dad was
a lifeguard
in San Clemente, California.

622
00:36:40,059 --> 00:36:42,096
BRUCE: I was lifeguard
in San Clemente,

623
00:36:42,130 --> 00:36:44,063
and Wayne Schafer and I
were on duty.

624
00:36:44,098 --> 00:36:45,513
We were then
the only two lifeguards.

625
00:36:45,548 --> 00:36:47,239
And we had a truck.

626
00:36:47,274 --> 00:36:51,070
And we get a call.
There's, you know,
an emergency drowning

627
00:36:51,105 --> 00:36:52,382
in Poche.

628
00:36:52,417 --> 00:36:54,419
So we jump in the truck.

629
00:36:56,352 --> 00:37:00,114
You know, we both jump
in the passenger side...
[LAUGHING]

630
00:37:00,148 --> 00:37:02,565
Anyway,
I end up driving.

631
00:37:02,599 --> 00:37:04,567
Get half through the pier and
the sand gets in my eye

632
00:37:04,601 --> 00:37:08,226
and I crush the fender
of the truck into the pier.

633
00:37:08,260 --> 00:37:12,264
We turn the sirens on,
hauling ass down to Poche

634
00:37:12,299 --> 00:37:14,266
you know,
to save the poor soul.

635
00:37:14,301 --> 00:37:16,786
We get there,
and it's Grubby
with a stopwatch going,

636
00:37:16,820 --> 00:37:21,239
"God! The poor guy
would have drowned if there
wasn't anybody here."

637
00:37:21,273 --> 00:37:24,034
I mean... [LAUGHING]

638
00:37:24,069 --> 00:37:27,106
-I was timing you.
-[PEOPLE LAUGHING]

639
00:37:27,141 --> 00:37:29,937
Filing a full grounding report?

640
00:37:29,971 --> 00:37:32,077
No way, we protected you.

641
00:37:32,111 --> 00:37:34,700
You never even thanked me.
So, thank me now.

642
00:37:34,735 --> 00:37:36,702
[PEOPLE LAUGHING]

643
00:37:36,737 --> 00:37:39,291
Statute of limitations
is over, screw you.

644
00:37:39,326 --> 00:37:41,293
[PEOPLE LAUGHING]

645
00:37:46,643 --> 00:37:48,818
[BIRDS CHIRPING]

646
00:37:51,130 --> 00:37:54,582
WADE: That's beautiful.
Is he grinding away?

647
00:37:54,617 --> 00:37:56,826
[MAN 1 SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY]

648
00:37:57,930 --> 00:37:59,932
[MEN LAUGHING]

649
00:37:59,967 --> 00:38:02,141
WADE: Did you see that shot?
DANA: What the...

650
00:38:02,176 --> 00:38:05,248
-Rusty! Rusty! Rusty!
-[MEN LAUGHING]

651
00:38:05,283 --> 00:38:10,080
-WADE: Jesus Christ!
-[MEN CONTINUE LAUGHING]

652
00:38:10,115 --> 00:38:13,843
DANA: Did you watch all that?
[IMITATES DOG BARK]

653
00:38:18,434 --> 00:38:20,643
GRUBBY: We got big things
for you to do.

654
00:38:20,677 --> 00:38:23,335
BRUCE: What?
GRUBBY: I said, we got
big things for you to do.

655
00:38:23,370 --> 00:38:26,165
Are you ready? Can you walk?
Can you still walk?

656
00:38:27,477 --> 00:38:29,341
Walking's not my favorite thing.

657
00:38:38,523 --> 00:38:43,769
DANA: Despite Grubby trying to
scare us, we were happy
not to walk.

658
00:38:43,804 --> 00:38:47,083
His ranch is over
80 square miles.

659
00:39:03,375 --> 00:39:06,205
It's a funny story,
how Gordon got this place.

660
00:39:06,240 --> 00:39:09,554
He was on a trip in Oregon
with surfing legend
Gerry Lopez.

661
00:39:09,588 --> 00:39:12,211
When they came across a ranch
in foreclosure,

662
00:39:12,246 --> 00:39:16,043
and Grubby made what he thought was a token offer.

663
00:39:16,077 --> 00:39:19,322
A month later he calls me up,
we're back in Hawaii.

664
00:39:19,357 --> 00:39:22,049
He goes,
"We gotta go back there."
I go, "Why?"

665
00:39:22,083 --> 00:39:24,672
He goes "Because they
accepted my bid,

666
00:39:24,707 --> 00:39:26,398
"I haven't even seen the place."

667
00:39:28,227 --> 00:39:33,923
So, we came over,
and here we are.

668
00:39:33,957 --> 00:39:36,581
BRUCE: We're all so proud
of him, 'cause when he first
bought the place,

669
00:39:36,615 --> 00:39:39,687
you know, I'm sure he thought, "I'll get somebody to run it
or sell it, or...

670
00:39:39,722 --> 00:39:41,413
But then when he got into it...

671
00:39:41,448 --> 00:39:43,346
Like all these guys,
they get in something,

672
00:39:43,381 --> 00:39:46,418
and then
they really get deep into it.

673
00:39:46,453 --> 00:39:49,559
BRUCE: He started calling me
asking cattle advice.

674
00:39:49,594 --> 00:39:51,043
[LAUGHS] So, you know...

675
00:39:51,078 --> 00:39:55,013
So, you know he's in trouble.
He had no experience
with that at all.

676
00:39:55,047 --> 00:39:59,949
And now he's like last year's
"Cattleman of the Year"
in Oregon.

677
00:39:59,983 --> 00:40:04,850
You know,
and they use motorcycles
to round up cattle and...

678
00:40:04,885 --> 00:40:06,438
You know, stuff like that.

679
00:40:06,473 --> 00:40:09,890
You know, look at what
he's done to this place.
It's amazing.

680
00:40:09,924 --> 00:40:15,067
You know, for a...
Like a dumb shit
from Laguna Beach... [CHUCKLES]

681
00:40:21,902 --> 00:40:24,214
Here's the shepherd's crooks.

682
00:40:24,249 --> 00:40:26,216
WADE: Everything has a reason.

683
00:40:26,251 --> 00:40:29,565
Get a picture of Grandpa smokingunder the no smoking sign.

684
00:40:29,599 --> 00:40:34,984
GRUBBY: Under the
no smoking sign. Yeah, yeah.
Like fucking Castro.

685
00:40:35,018 --> 00:40:39,954
WADE: I hope no one
who's around here
is a real rancher or farmer

686
00:40:39,989 --> 00:40:42,716
ever sees this movie because...

687
00:40:42,750 --> 00:40:44,580
You guys are really lost.

688
00:40:45,028 --> 00:40:46,444
[ALL LAUGHING]

689
00:40:46,478 --> 00:40:47,824
BRUCE: We shouldn't be
proud of you?

690
00:40:47,859 --> 00:40:51,483
WADE: No.[CLEARS THROAT] I'm... I'm ahead of you but...

691
00:40:51,518 --> 00:40:53,830
But there's an awful
lot of people way ahead of me.

692
00:40:53,865 --> 00:40:55,107
BRUCE: Well, of course.

693
00:40:55,142 --> 00:40:56,350
WADE: So...

694
00:41:04,979 --> 00:41:07,154
This whole ranch
is a Bruce Brown ranch.

695
00:41:07,188 --> 00:41:09,363
I mean, he...
He's the one that did it all.

696
00:41:11,848 --> 00:41:13,643
One day, he said, uh...

697
00:41:15,162 --> 00:41:20,270
"Hey, I'm gonna have
a preview of my new movie."

698
00:41:20,305 --> 00:41:27,001
And I think in my whole life,
that was the biggest shock
that I've ever had.

699
00:41:27,036 --> 00:41:29,487
We went over to his house
next door.

700
00:41:29,521 --> 00:41:32,524
And he was narrating it,
it's before he had
a sound track.

701
00:41:32,559 --> 00:41:36,045
And it was still 16
and he played
The Endless Summer.

702
00:41:36,079 --> 00:41:40,014
And my God... It just...
It was...

703
00:41:40,049 --> 00:41:42,120
Where did this come from?
What planet?

704
00:41:42,154 --> 00:41:43,846
And... And I mean...

705
00:41:43,880 --> 00:41:46,400
It was the most amazing thing
I've ever seen in my life.

706
00:41:46,434 --> 00:41:50,369
This guy that was,
in my judgement,
just screwing around.

707
00:41:50,404 --> 00:41:53,234
And he comes up
with this thing.

708
00:41:57,445 --> 00:41:59,517
BRUCE: I'll never forget
the very first showing...

709
00:41:59,551 --> 00:42:02,174
Endless Summer ended
our premiere showing,

710
00:42:02,209 --> 00:42:06,040
and it was dead silent.
And I'm going, "Oh, no.

711
00:42:06,075 --> 00:42:08,560
"They hate it!"
You know, after all this work.

712
00:42:08,595 --> 00:42:11,218
And then all suddenlythey started clapping... "Whew!"

713
00:42:11,252 --> 00:42:15,705
The first year, we sold out
every single showing.

714
00:42:15,740 --> 00:42:18,881
Every... Santa Monica Civic,
understand this,

715
00:42:18,915 --> 00:42:21,711
holds 3,500 people.

716
00:42:21,746 --> 00:42:24,265
I book it for seven nights.

717
00:42:25,059 --> 00:42:28,442
Sold out every single night.

718
00:42:28,476 --> 00:42:31,928
I was out there with a megaphoneon the last show saying,

719
00:42:31,963 --> 00:42:34,517
"We're holding over
for one more day."

720
00:42:34,552 --> 00:42:37,416
I was on the...
Calling the radio stations...

721
00:42:37,451 --> 00:42:39,453
DANA: The Endless Summer
pushed surfing

722
00:42:39,487 --> 00:42:43,526
to another level of popularity, and cultural significance.

723
00:42:43,561 --> 00:42:46,564
Surfing was hip.
Grubby benefited,

724
00:42:46,598 --> 00:42:50,015
Hobie benefited,
the whole surf industry
benefited.

725
00:42:50,050 --> 00:42:54,606
And countless started to surf
and chase their perfect wave.

726
00:42:54,641 --> 00:42:57,713
As I came in,
they're almost in tears.

727
00:42:57,747 --> 00:43:01,682
"'Cause this movie
changed my life."

728
00:43:01,717 --> 00:43:06,722
Changed my life, I mean,
I've been so impacted
so beautifully by this movie.

729
00:43:06,756 --> 00:43:11,623
GRUBBY: It was an incredible
introduction of surfing
to the world.

730
00:43:11,658 --> 00:43:15,972
I still think he's a screw up,I don't know where it came from.

731
00:43:16,007 --> 00:43:19,079
Sometimes, I thought
your mother did it,
I don't know.

732
00:43:19,113 --> 00:43:22,116
I don't know... It's impossible
that he could have done it.

733
00:43:22,151 --> 00:43:23,635
[BRUCE LAUGHS]

734
00:43:23,670 --> 00:43:26,707
DANA: ButThe Endless Summer
was not an overnight success.

735
00:43:26,742 --> 00:43:30,331
Dad toured the film
for two years narrating live

736
00:43:30,366 --> 00:43:32,955
hoping to get
mainstream distribution.

737
00:43:32,989 --> 00:43:37,062
After those two years, he got
a bank loan for $50,000,

738
00:43:37,097 --> 00:43:42,067
and sent Paul Allen
to Wichita, Kansas,
in the middle of winter.

739
00:43:42,102 --> 00:43:44,449
PAUL ALLEN: The day I opened...

740
00:43:44,483 --> 00:43:47,521
One of the worst snowstorms
hit Wichita, Kansas.

741
00:43:47,555 --> 00:43:49,799
We got about a foot of snow
on the ground,

742
00:43:49,834 --> 00:43:53,665
icicles hanging off
this marquee that says
The Endless Summer,

743
00:43:53,700 --> 00:43:56,772
and I see people lined up
around the block,

744
00:43:56,806 --> 00:43:59,809
stomping in the snow,
kinda keeping warm, you know?

745
00:43:59,844 --> 00:44:03,123
And filled it up. Filled it up.

746
00:44:03,157 --> 00:44:06,298
Holy mackerel. I ended up
holding it over
for another week.

747
00:44:06,333 --> 00:44:08,853
The theatre owners
were blown away.

748
00:44:08,887 --> 00:44:11,752
Well, of course, that was it.

749
00:44:11,787 --> 00:44:14,790
Finally, the establishment
came calling.

750
00:44:14,824 --> 00:44:16,550
DANA: And in 1966,

751
00:44:16,584 --> 00:44:20,830
Dad's five-year Odyssey
was an overnight sensation.

752
00:44:20,865 --> 00:44:24,627
But Dad was done with surfing
as a subject matter
for his movies,

753
00:44:24,662 --> 00:44:27,492
and he turned
his attention elsewhere.

754
00:44:33,360 --> 00:44:36,018
BRUCE: People kept
bugging me, "What are you
going to do next?"

755
00:44:36,052 --> 00:44:37,467
I'm a surfer.

756
00:44:37,502 --> 00:44:40,608
If I make as much money
as I say,
why would I do anything?

757
00:44:41,195 --> 00:44:42,887
Anyway so.

758
00:44:42,921 --> 00:44:45,510
I think I was in Japan,
and...

759
00:44:45,544 --> 00:44:48,547
they have those little Honda
step throughs, 50cc things.

760
00:44:48,582 --> 00:44:51,136
And when I got home, you know, I brought one of those...

761
00:44:51,171 --> 00:44:52,586
when they
first imported them

762
00:44:52,620 --> 00:44:54,795
I started, you know,
puttin' around and...

763
00:44:54,830 --> 00:44:57,729
put my wife in the back
and we go up the hills
and stuff and...

764
00:44:57,764 --> 00:45:00,249
I go, you know,
"This is kind of,
this is fun."

765
00:45:00,283 --> 00:45:01,975
Before On Any Sunday

766
00:45:02,009 --> 00:45:05,564
everything else was, uh...

767
00:45:06,634 --> 00:45:10,397
choppers and bike gangs
and stuff like that.

768
00:45:10,431 --> 00:45:12,917
And that's really...

769
00:45:12,951 --> 00:45:16,368
the only thing the public had

770
00:45:16,403 --> 00:45:20,234
to gage motorcycles on
was that lifestyle.

771
00:45:20,269 --> 00:45:22,581
Then I got to know
some of the people.

772
00:45:22,616 --> 00:45:26,447
And it was so much different
than what, you know,

773
00:45:26,482 --> 00:45:29,761
the public perception
of the people were.

774
00:45:29,796 --> 00:45:33,075
So, I thought, you know,
it might be really fun to

775
00:45:33,109 --> 00:45:35,042
do a movie about motorcycling.

776
00:45:36,457 --> 00:45:38,770
DANA: To make a movie
you need funding

777
00:45:38,805 --> 00:45:40,634
and the person
my father thought of

778
00:45:40,668 --> 00:45:44,776
was motorcycle
and film legend,
Steve McQueen.

779
00:45:44,811 --> 00:45:47,606
BRUCE: I knew Steve
was a motorcycle guy.

780
00:45:47,641 --> 00:45:51,058
So I went up to
a solo production,
and met with Steve,

781
00:45:51,093 --> 00:45:53,198
and said, "Hey, here's what
I want to do" and he goes,

782
00:45:53,233 --> 00:45:55,580
"Oh, cool, that'd be great."
You know?

783
00:45:55,614 --> 00:45:59,204
"What do you want me to do?"
I go, "well, pay for it."

784
00:45:59,239 --> 00:46:02,207
And he goes, "Hey man,"
he says, you know,

785
00:46:02,242 --> 00:46:04,934
"I'm in movies,
I don't finance movies."

786
00:46:04,969 --> 00:46:08,041
You know, "Well, you can't be
in my movie then, can you?"

787
00:46:08,075 --> 00:46:09,283
And he started laughing.
He said,

788
00:46:09,318 --> 00:46:11,423
"I'll call you tomorrow."
He called me up and said,

789
00:46:11,458 --> 00:46:12,321
"Let's go for it."

790
00:46:12,355 --> 00:46:14,599
[MOTORCYCLE REVVING]

791
00:46:23,677 --> 00:46:26,335
YOUNG BRUCE:
Four million people
ride motorcycles in the US.

792
00:46:26,369 --> 00:46:29,372
They come in all shapes,
sizes and ages.

793
00:46:34,343 --> 00:46:36,932
To some people
a motorcycle is work...

794
00:46:38,105 --> 00:46:40,832
...for a way to get to work.

795
00:46:40,867 --> 00:46:45,009
Or a way to get away
from it all to the solitude
of the open country.

796
00:46:46,389 --> 00:46:48,633
A motorcycle is whatever
you want to make it.

797
00:46:48,667 --> 00:46:51,809
Turn it on, you can
give yourself a real thrill.

798
00:46:53,741 --> 00:46:56,330
You know,
we just shot a ton of film.

799
00:46:56,365 --> 00:46:58,539
you know,
without knowing exactly,

800
00:46:58,574 --> 00:47:00,852
you know,
where it's gonna end up.

801
00:47:00,887 --> 00:47:02,923
We started to take, like,
a point of view, like,

802
00:47:02,958 --> 00:47:06,478
the moto cross
is the young gameplay guys,

803
00:47:06,513 --> 00:47:08,653
and flat trackers
are the professionals,

804
00:47:08,687 --> 00:47:12,174
and the Malcolm Smiths
are the Sunday

805
00:47:12,208 --> 00:47:13,554
you know, Sportsman riders

806
00:47:13,589 --> 00:47:16,212
and trials guys
are the violin players

807
00:47:16,247 --> 00:47:20,113
and desert racers are the...
You know, nobody's watching,

808
00:47:20,147 --> 00:47:21,666
One hand clapping.

809
00:47:23,254 --> 00:47:25,359
You know, that kind of film.

810
00:47:25,394 --> 00:47:27,534
You know, I had certain things
I wanted to do,

811
00:47:27,568 --> 00:47:30,502
but you sort of have
to see what develops.

812
00:47:36,163 --> 00:47:38,545
YOUNG BRUCE: A group
of businessmen
during their rush hour,

813
00:47:38,579 --> 00:47:42,342
a young man
with a garment bag over
his shoulder is Mert Lawwill,

814
00:47:42,376 --> 00:47:46,760
29 years old,
5'6", 143 pounds.

815
00:47:48,866 --> 00:47:49,728
[BELL DINGING]

816
00:47:51,592 --> 00:47:55,976
He's not a banker
or an accountant
or a salesman.

817
00:47:56,011 --> 00:47:59,497
But he is a professional man
like the rest.

818
00:47:59,531 --> 00:48:03,087
His profession,
motorcycle racer.

819
00:48:05,952 --> 00:48:08,920
MERT: Everybody asked me
earlier on if I want to be
a part of the filming

820
00:48:08,955 --> 00:48:11,198
I was like, "Sure, okay."
I mean, I didn't know

821
00:48:11,233 --> 00:48:12,751
what it's gonna be at all.

822
00:48:12,786 --> 00:48:14,926
Yeah, but then you find out
he was gonna pay
for the motel room

823
00:48:14,961 --> 00:48:16,410
-and that was great.
-Yeah, that was swell.

824
00:48:16,445 --> 00:48:18,757
-He that was wonderful, and gas.-Yeah.

825
00:48:18,792 --> 00:48:20,414
"God," he said,
"this is really cool."

826
00:48:20,449 --> 00:48:22,554
And he said he was really
funny and fun.

827
00:48:22,589 --> 00:48:25,937
MERT: Well, I was so naive
that I didn't have any clue
of who he was

828
00:48:25,972 --> 00:48:29,009
until he actually
started doing the filming.

829
00:48:29,044 --> 00:48:31,253
I didn't know that he's done
any other surf films

830
00:48:31,287 --> 00:48:32,461
because I had tunnel vision,

831
00:48:32,495 --> 00:48:35,222
I was only looking at my stuff, motor racing.

832
00:48:35,257 --> 00:48:38,018
BRUCE: Mert makes his living
in one of the most
dangerous sports

833
00:48:38,053 --> 00:48:39,951
in which man participates.

834
00:48:39,986 --> 00:48:42,402
CHAD McQUEEN: My dad had
us racing very young,

835
00:48:42,436 --> 00:48:44,645
at nine years old,
and I remember

836
00:48:44,680 --> 00:48:47,545
having to ride
with a sprained ankle.

837
00:48:47,579 --> 00:48:50,272
[MIMICS GRUNTING AND PANTING]

838
00:48:50,306 --> 00:48:51,825
And fucking Mert, Malcolm,

839
00:48:51,859 --> 00:48:55,070
these guys were,
you know, broken tibias
and shit, you know?

840
00:48:56,657 --> 00:49:00,592
Man, they were
the elite of their sport.

841
00:49:00,627 --> 00:49:03,388
YOUNG BRUCE: Their skill on the race track has earned them the right to carry

842
00:49:03,423 --> 00:49:05,632
the American
Motorcycle Association

843
00:49:05,666 --> 00:49:08,255
number one professional plate.

844
00:49:08,290 --> 00:49:09,912
BRUCE: Since Mert
was number one.

845
00:49:09,947 --> 00:49:11,810
I thought,
well, that's probably

846
00:49:11,845 --> 00:49:13,088
a good story,
you know?

847
00:49:13,122 --> 00:49:15,573
You're either gonna be
number one again

848
00:49:15,607 --> 00:49:17,230
or not be number one.

849
00:49:17,264 --> 00:49:20,026
So, there's probably
a story there
one way or the other, so.

850
00:49:26,342 --> 00:49:27,965
When we first
took off with Mert,

851
00:49:27,999 --> 00:49:29,656
I mean, he didn't
know me from Adam.

852
00:49:29,690 --> 00:49:31,830
I didn't know what the hell
those guys were doing.

853
00:49:31,865 --> 00:49:35,455
-And, uh...
-We had quite a trip.

854
00:49:35,489 --> 00:49:38,285
MERT: You know, we spent
so much time together
on the road,

855
00:49:38,320 --> 00:49:42,013
uh, during the filming
that we just became friends

856
00:49:42,048 --> 00:49:45,016
and Bruce is... I mean,
he's easy to be
a friend with, I mean.

857
00:49:45,051 --> 00:49:47,812
His personality as such,
and he's always funny.

858
00:49:47,846 --> 00:49:51,022
So, we really get along well.

859
00:49:53,369 --> 00:49:56,855
DANA: Mert is more than
a legendary motorcycle racer.

860
00:49:56,890 --> 00:49:59,720
He's also a renowned
inventor and designer

861
00:49:59,755 --> 00:50:02,033
of motorcycles,
mountain bikes

862
00:50:02,068 --> 00:50:05,726
and mechanical appendages
for amputees.

863
00:50:07,935 --> 00:50:09,730
-Hey, June!
-Hi, sweetie.

864
00:50:09,765 --> 00:50:11,008
How are you my dear?

865
00:50:11,042 --> 00:50:14,114
-I'm good as can be expected.
-Expecting that.

866
00:50:14,149 --> 00:50:17,048
DANA: Mert and June were among
my parents' closest friends

867
00:50:17,083 --> 00:50:19,740
and we'd spend every
Thanksgiving together.

868
00:50:19,775 --> 00:50:22,985
MERT: We used to rent
a motorhome and go down there
for Thanksgiving

869
00:50:23,020 --> 00:50:26,057
and we really had
a great time.
We loved it down there.

870
00:50:26,092 --> 00:50:27,507
All the kids,
you know,

871
00:50:27,541 --> 00:50:31,683
relatives, and all of you
kept growing and getting
mates, children

872
00:50:31,718 --> 00:50:33,064
and got bigger and bigger,

873
00:50:33,099 --> 00:50:34,755
and finally Pat and I
looked at each other
and said,

874
00:50:34,790 --> 00:50:36,826
"There's 50 people here.

875
00:50:36,861 --> 00:50:39,553
"It's getting kind a big
for the two of us."

876
00:50:39,588 --> 00:50:42,591
But it was fun.
It was great fun
and everybody...

877
00:50:42,625 --> 00:50:47,147
My kids' Finest thing
is when Bruce stood up
in front of 50 people,

878
00:50:47,182 --> 00:50:48,907
mother-in-laws, every age

879
00:50:48,942 --> 00:50:50,944
and mooned the whole crowd.

880
00:50:50,978 --> 00:50:53,567
My kids think that's
the greatest thing
that ever happened

881
00:50:53,602 --> 00:50:55,052
so far in their lives.

882
00:50:55,086 --> 00:50:57,882
TIM LAWWILL: There was probably
20 people at that big long

883
00:50:57,916 --> 00:51:00,402
Thanksgiving table
at your house,

884
00:51:00,436 --> 00:51:02,852
and it came time
to say the blessing,

885
00:51:02,887 --> 00:51:04,578
and he stood up on his chair

886
00:51:04,613 --> 00:51:06,925
-turned around,
and he yippy yayed everybody.
-[MAN LAUGHS]

887
00:51:06,960 --> 00:51:08,686
And if anybody else did that,

888
00:51:08,720 --> 00:51:10,515
they'd never
get away with it.

889
00:51:10,550 --> 00:51:13,932
And for some reason,
it was really smooth.

890
00:51:13,967 --> 00:51:16,935
It was like,
it kind of really
is hard to start eating,

891
00:51:16,970 --> 00:51:18,765
but, I mean,
with that memory

892
00:51:18,799 --> 00:51:20,111
but he pulled it off.

893
00:51:20,146 --> 00:51:24,046
And no one else could everat all... I'll ever forget that.

894
00:51:24,081 --> 00:51:26,773
No one else could've done that
and got away with it.

895
00:51:26,807 --> 00:51:28,568
[DANA SPEAKING]

896
00:51:28,602 --> 00:51:30,259
JUNE: [GASPS] No kidding.

897
00:51:30,294 --> 00:51:33,262
[DANA SPEAKING]

898
00:51:33,297 --> 00:51:34,160
[ALL LAUGHING]

899
00:51:34,194 --> 00:51:36,369
Head to the table,
nuts hanging down.

900
00:51:36,403 --> 00:51:37,922
I almost fainted.

901
00:51:37,956 --> 00:51:41,201
I looked over at Pat.
She's just, like,
she's so immune.

902
00:51:41,236 --> 00:51:44,308
So, anything Bruce ever did,
she didn't blink.

903
00:51:45,171 --> 00:51:46,482
Heh, hmm.

904
00:51:46,517 --> 00:51:49,140
Well, Pat was so special to us.

905
00:51:49,175 --> 00:51:50,659
You know, just kind of
like a second mom.

906
00:51:50,693 --> 00:51:52,764
I mean, we all fit in.
Kind of like we're all family.

907
00:51:52,799 --> 00:51:54,318
Not mom.
She was like a sister.

908
00:51:54,352 --> 00:51:55,974
[BOTH CHUCKLE]

909
00:51:56,009 --> 00:51:57,631
-Uh...
-We were in the same age.

910
00:51:57,666 --> 00:51:59,702
You know, we had kids and...

911
00:52:00,841 --> 00:52:02,015
Yeah, it was...

912
00:52:02,049 --> 00:52:03,741
-It was hard on us.
-It was a hard time.

913
00:52:03,775 --> 00:52:06,985
Yeah, we're not doing
good yet. [CHUCKLES]

914
00:52:07,020 --> 00:52:11,335
But it's just been
forty something years.

915
00:52:12,198 --> 00:52:12,922
It sounded real.

916
00:52:12,957 --> 00:52:14,821
And it's been mostly good.

917
00:52:22,449 --> 00:52:25,038
[INDISTINCT CHATTERING]

918
00:52:29,215 --> 00:52:33,046
BRUCE: What's funny about
the motorcycle crowd,

919
00:52:33,080 --> 00:52:34,461
I mean,

920
00:52:34,496 --> 00:52:38,845
almost everybody that,
you know, I ran across
making the movie...

921
00:52:38,879 --> 00:52:41,882
Now, you know,
they've become
lifelong friends.

922
00:52:41,917 --> 00:52:43,090
I mean, it's amazing.

923
00:52:49,235 --> 00:52:54,171
You know, and they're
such humble people
in a lot of ways.

924
00:52:57,104 --> 00:52:59,003
DANA: I think that's why
On Any Sunday

925
00:52:59,037 --> 00:53:00,556
transcends all
these generations.

926
00:53:00,591 --> 00:53:02,869
I don't think anybody's trying
to look at something
that's retro.

927
00:53:02,903 --> 00:53:06,942
I think, it's just, the spirit of it hasn't changed.

928
00:53:18,505 --> 00:53:20,058
CHAD: You know, uh,

929
00:53:20,093 --> 00:53:23,234
my dad didn't like
a lot of people
but something attracted...

930
00:53:24,718 --> 00:53:26,755
There was something...

931
00:53:29,965 --> 00:53:31,725
...about your dad
and my dad

932
00:53:31,760 --> 00:53:34,935
that was
on a similar wavelength,
you know?

933
00:53:34,970 --> 00:53:37,938
and it wasn't just motorcycles,
you know?

934
00:53:43,116 --> 00:53:45,877
STEVE: Every time I start
thinking the world is all bad

935
00:53:45,912 --> 00:53:47,500
then I start seeing
some people out there

936
00:53:47,534 --> 00:53:50,157
having a good time
with motorcycles that makes me
take another look.

937
00:53:54,300 --> 00:53:57,234
BRUCE: I remember,
riding the other races
years ago.

938
00:53:57,268 --> 00:53:59,132
I haven't ridden one
in a long time.

939
00:53:59,788 --> 00:54:02,584
It's the same. But...

940
00:54:02,618 --> 00:54:05,276
It's a little box canyon
and everybody's jammed up,

941
00:54:05,311 --> 00:54:06,933
and you're running
into somebody,

942
00:54:06,967 --> 00:54:08,866
knock them over
and they go,

943
00:54:08,900 --> 00:54:11,282
you know, "I'm really sorry."
"Are you having fun?"

944
00:54:11,317 --> 00:54:14,112
-[CHUCKLES]
-You go, "Yeah, sorry."

945
00:54:14,147 --> 00:54:15,942
"Ah, don't worry about it."

946
00:54:15,976 --> 00:54:19,704
You know, that's typical
motorsports people.

947
00:54:19,739 --> 00:54:22,293
And even more
with the motorcycle folks.

948
00:54:22,328 --> 00:54:26,987
DANA: The motorcycle community
brought Dad many
lifelong friendships.

949
00:54:27,022 --> 00:54:28,782
And when it came
to those friends,

950
00:54:28,817 --> 00:54:31,129
it didn't matter how much time had gone by.

951
00:54:31,164 --> 00:54:34,443
He knew he'd always
be greeted with
a kind word

952
00:54:34,478 --> 00:54:36,342
and a gentle welcome.

953
00:54:38,516 --> 00:54:40,518
[MAN SPEAKING LOUDLY]

954
00:54:43,176 --> 00:54:45,834
The last time I talked
to somebody, they said,

955
00:54:45,868 --> 00:54:49,147
-"In a couple of days
he'll be dead."
-[LAUGHS]

956
00:54:49,182 --> 00:54:50,735
Well, that's why
we're doing this.

957
00:54:50,770 --> 00:54:53,013
Oh, this is
the goodwill church?

958
00:54:53,048 --> 00:54:54,670
DAN: This is
for insurance purposes.

959
00:54:54,705 --> 00:54:58,329
This is the
"Be with the hero" tour.

960
00:54:58,364 --> 00:55:00,918
And you're a hero.
You're in the wrong
fucking place.

961
00:55:00,952 --> 00:55:02,091
You're not...

962
00:55:02,126 --> 00:55:04,093
DANA: Kenny Roberts
is unquestionably

963
00:55:04,128 --> 00:55:07,821
the greatest motorcycle racer
of the 20th century.

964
00:55:07,856 --> 00:55:11,446
Kenny was the A.M.A. Grand National Champion

965
00:55:11,480 --> 00:55:13,482
on the dirt track three times.

966
00:55:13,517 --> 00:55:15,001
Then he went to Europe

967
00:55:15,035 --> 00:55:18,832
where he became
the first American to win
a Moto GP Championship.

968
00:55:18,867 --> 00:55:22,008
And then followed that up
with two more.

969
00:55:23,527 --> 00:55:25,598
I'm surprised you're here
actually. I'm really...

970
00:55:25,632 --> 00:55:26,495
-WOMAN: Really?
-Yeah.

971
00:55:26,530 --> 00:55:27,565
You say I was...

972
00:55:27,600 --> 00:55:29,843
I tried to get so far away
no one would find me

973
00:55:29,878 --> 00:55:31,535
but he found me.

974
00:55:31,569 --> 00:55:32,639
[ALL CHUCKLING]

975
00:55:35,401 --> 00:55:37,955
DANA: His nickname
is "The King".

976
00:55:37,989 --> 00:55:40,854
And if anybody
earned that nickname,

977
00:55:40,889 --> 00:55:43,201
it's Kenny Roberts.

978
00:55:43,236 --> 00:55:45,411
-WOMAN: It's not working.
-That's what
I'm talking about.

979
00:55:45,445 --> 00:55:47,136
[ALL LAUGHING]

980
00:55:56,214 --> 00:55:58,182
DANA: After Kenny
retired from racing

981
00:55:58,216 --> 00:56:01,806
he became a team owner
on the Moto GP circuit,

982
00:56:01,841 --> 00:56:04,153
guiding six more
world champions.

983
00:56:04,188 --> 00:56:07,502
The last was his son,
Kenny Roberts Jr.

984
00:56:07,536 --> 00:56:12,610
His youngest son, Kurtis, was also a Superbike champion.

985
00:56:12,645 --> 00:56:16,269
It's safe to say the Roberts
have quite the DNA.

986
00:56:21,378 --> 00:56:23,725
TROY LEE: He took it
to a whole 'nother level.
He brought...

987
00:56:23,759 --> 00:56:25,451
You know, he was
the heavy hitter

988
00:56:25,485 --> 00:56:28,385
that went to Europe
and pulled it off and beat
the best in the world.

989
00:56:28,419 --> 00:56:31,422
He was able to do it on
all different levels

990
00:56:31,457 --> 00:56:35,184
from dirt to pavement.
I mean, he is my idol.

991
00:56:35,219 --> 00:56:36,565
DANA: For my dad and Kenny,

992
00:56:36,600 --> 00:56:39,257
their friendship wasn't
a matter of mutual admiration

993
00:56:39,292 --> 00:56:40,742
or what they had accomplished

994
00:56:40,776 --> 00:56:42,951
it was a much
deeper connection.

995
00:56:43,779 --> 00:56:45,988
Right away
we sort of hit it off.

996
00:56:46,023 --> 00:56:48,508
And from then on it was,

997
00:56:48,543 --> 00:56:51,062
every time we were together
we were in trouble

998
00:56:51,097 --> 00:56:52,547
of some sort.

999
00:56:52,581 --> 00:56:55,481
I don't know, you know,
I admire the guy

1000
00:56:55,515 --> 00:56:58,553
you know, for all
the accomplishments and...

1001
00:56:58,587 --> 00:57:00,417
He's good at everything he does.

1002
00:57:00,451 --> 00:57:02,280
DANA: You guys have
a similar sense of humor, too.

1003
00:57:02,315 --> 00:57:04,248
Yeah, very similar. [CHUCKLES]

1004
00:57:05,387 --> 00:57:07,700
I guess that's why
we got to like each other.

1005
00:57:07,734 --> 00:57:09,771
Every time I hit a hole,

1006
00:57:09,805 --> 00:57:11,738
my head would
fly out the T-top

1007
00:57:11,773 --> 00:57:14,361
and my foot would get off
the gas. So, it would go...
[IMITATES ENGINE WHINE]

1008
00:57:14,396 --> 00:57:16,950
And I'd land
on the seat again,
[IMITATES ENGINE REVVING]

1009
00:57:16,985 --> 00:57:18,296
And then you'd see it.

1010
00:57:18,331 --> 00:57:20,298
My head would come up again
and gas would go off...

1011
00:57:20,333 --> 00:57:22,577
JOHN TIPICH: The way that
I'd describe them is,

1012
00:57:22,611 --> 00:57:25,338
you know, they're just like...

1013
00:57:27,823 --> 00:57:30,412
They're, like, so tough
on the outside.

1014
00:57:30,447 --> 00:57:32,725
But then once you crack
that little surface

1015
00:57:32,759 --> 00:57:34,209
they're just mushy.

1016
00:57:34,243 --> 00:57:36,142
And, you know,
they have the most,

1017
00:57:36,176 --> 00:57:39,041
uh, I hate...
You know, such a...

1018
00:57:39,076 --> 00:57:42,976
stereotypical, like,
macho guy attitude.

1019
00:57:43,011 --> 00:57:46,635
And then, you know,
you scratch that
tiny little rough surface

1020
00:57:46,670 --> 00:57:51,329
and you just get, like,
a little fluffy teddy bear
underneath.

1021
00:57:51,364 --> 00:57:53,677
Like a burnt marshmallow
or something.

1022
00:57:57,025 --> 00:58:01,719
KENNY: Well, you go
through your life,
I think as much as

1023
00:58:01,754 --> 00:58:06,344
you know, it's just hard
to find through your life

1024
00:58:06,379 --> 00:58:08,346
buds that have
everything that...

1025
00:58:08,381 --> 00:58:11,660
That have everything
that Bruce has.

1026
00:58:15,595 --> 00:58:16,769
BRUCE: And, you know...

1027
00:58:18,598 --> 00:58:22,637
When Dad was sick,
he'd call about once a week

1028
00:58:22,671 --> 00:58:24,121
and checking in, you know.

1029
00:58:24,155 --> 00:58:25,536
See how he was doing.

1030
00:58:30,610 --> 00:58:33,164
KENNY: Bruce you need to do
something with your dog.

1031
00:58:33,199 --> 00:58:35,028
[CHUCKLES] I don't know
what to do.

1032
00:58:35,063 --> 00:58:36,651
That dog is fucked up.

1033
00:58:36,685 --> 00:58:38,860
[ALL LAUGHING]

1034
00:58:38,894 --> 00:58:40,551
And it's just like you.

1035
00:58:41,621 --> 00:58:43,554
That dog is so you.

1036
00:58:48,214 --> 00:58:52,045
DANA: In a person's life
you have some friends
that you keep in touch with

1037
00:58:52,080 --> 00:58:54,082
that you see all the time.

1038
00:58:57,568 --> 00:59:01,227
But some you knew
very well long ago,

1039
00:59:01,261 --> 00:59:04,230
yet they'll always
still be your friends.

1040
00:59:04,264 --> 00:59:07,958
That would describe my dad
and Jack O'Neill.

1041
00:59:07,992 --> 00:59:08,890
-Hey!
-Hey!

1042
00:59:08,924 --> 00:59:10,408
-BRUCE: Hey!
-Hey!

1043
00:59:10,443 --> 00:59:11,478
Wow!

1044
00:59:11,513 --> 00:59:12,963
BRUCE: You're in your jammies.

1045
00:59:12,997 --> 00:59:15,137
Looks like everybody's here.

1046
00:59:15,172 --> 00:59:16,656
-Pretty good.
-Huh?

1047
00:59:16,691 --> 00:59:18,140
Pretty good.

1048
00:59:18,175 --> 00:59:19,901
-You're still up, right?
-It's been a long time.

1049
00:59:19,935 --> 00:59:22,041
-No shit.
-[CHUCKLES]

1050
00:59:22,075 --> 00:59:25,078
-No jelly bean.
-Come on. Come on in.

1051
00:59:25,113 --> 00:59:28,565
DANA: Jack and Dad
has been friends
for over half a century,

1052
00:59:28,599 --> 00:59:30,912
yet they don't see
each other much.

1053
00:59:30,946 --> 00:59:33,604
But they're still like
little kids
when they're together.

1054
00:59:33,639 --> 00:59:37,712
And sometimes they even own
the same kind of toys.

1055
00:59:37,746 --> 00:59:39,852
[SPEAKING]

1056
00:59:40,956 --> 00:59:42,095
-Right.
-To shoot that.

1057
00:59:42,130 --> 00:59:43,614
Yeah.

1058
00:59:43,649 --> 00:59:45,616
DANA: A potato launcher
is a cannon

1059
00:59:45,651 --> 00:59:48,446
that shoots
potato sized objects.

1060
00:59:48,481 --> 00:59:49,862
I've got one I put lemons in.

1061
00:59:49,896 --> 00:59:51,173
Oh, you put lemons?

1062
00:59:51,208 --> 00:59:54,349
God, it shoots it
like half a mile.
It's too big.

1063
00:59:54,383 --> 00:59:57,766
And what do you make
the barrel out of?

1064
00:59:57,801 --> 00:59:59,768
PAT O'NEILL: He's still a kid.
WOMAN: Yeah.

1065
00:59:59,803 --> 01:00:04,462
He's got more projects going
than anybody I know.

1066
01:00:04,497 --> 01:00:07,707
And I get sucked
into all of them.

1067
01:00:07,742 --> 01:00:09,295
-You do?
-[BOTH CHUCKLING]

1068
01:00:09,329 --> 01:00:10,641
-We all do.
-We all do.

1069
01:00:10,676 --> 01:00:12,470
-But it's interesting.
-But... yeah.

1070
01:00:12,505 --> 01:00:16,302
He's gonna make
this one out of copper.

1071
01:00:16,336 --> 01:00:18,684
-Oh, yeah.
-That PVC goes, boom!

1072
01:00:18,718 --> 01:00:21,203
CATHI O'NEILL: I think they're
very humble people.

1073
01:00:21,238 --> 01:00:23,654
And they come from a time

1074
01:00:23,689 --> 01:00:26,864
when they really worked hard
for what they have.

1075
01:00:26,899 --> 01:00:29,280
They followed their passion,
is what they did.

1076
01:00:29,315 --> 01:00:31,282
Where now people get
a little more locked up

1077
01:00:31,317 --> 01:00:33,560
having to follow

1078
01:00:33,595 --> 01:00:37,599
the focus of, you know,
where others think
they should be.

1079
01:00:37,634 --> 01:00:40,671
I don't think Jack and Bruce
ever had that.

1080
01:00:40,706 --> 01:00:43,743
DANA: Jack O'Neill has never
followed others.

1081
01:00:49,473 --> 01:00:53,339
Among his passions had been
surfer, sailor,

1082
01:00:53,373 --> 01:00:57,067
sand sailor,
trampoline aficionado,

1083
01:00:57,101 --> 01:00:59,103
hot air balloonist,

1084
01:00:59,138 --> 01:01:01,140
super suit pioneer,

1085
01:01:01,174 --> 01:01:05,144
house designer
and business tycoon.

1086
01:01:05,178 --> 01:01:07,767
But it all started
as a surf shop owner

1087
01:01:07,802 --> 01:01:11,702
who, on one occasion helped
his buddy show
his surf fellows.

1088
01:01:11,737 --> 01:01:14,912
JACK: I remember we took
Barefoot Adventure...

1089
01:01:14,947 --> 01:01:16,258
Okay, yeah, I remember.

1090
01:01:16,293 --> 01:01:19,261
Took 'em downtown
with your posters

1091
01:01:19,296 --> 01:01:21,022
withBarefoot...

1092
01:01:21,056 --> 01:01:22,851
And we went to
the stock exchange.

1093
01:01:23,507 --> 01:01:25,820
We're handing 'em out there.

1094
01:01:25,854 --> 01:01:27,304
"Can we have people

1095
01:01:27,338 --> 01:01:30,548
"show up for a coast
to see the surf movie?"

1096
01:01:32,309 --> 01:01:36,520
That worked out well, Bruce,
I appreciate your...

1097
01:01:36,554 --> 01:01:38,936
...giving me that opportunity.

1098
01:01:38,971 --> 01:01:41,559
I was selling suits on the side.

1099
01:01:41,594 --> 01:01:42,491
Selling what?

1100
01:01:42,526 --> 01:01:45,425
-Selling wetsuits
on the side.
-Yeah.

1101
01:01:46,737 --> 01:01:49,775
DANA: Jack O'Neill's name is synonymous with the wetsuit.

1102
01:01:49,809 --> 01:01:51,880
He invented
the neoprene wetsuit

1103
01:01:51,915 --> 01:01:53,571
which revolutionized surfing

1104
01:01:53,606 --> 01:01:58,542
allowing surfers to ride waves anywhere in the world.

1105
01:01:58,576 --> 01:02:01,510
The O'Neill brand has grown into one of the most respected

1106
01:02:01,545 --> 01:02:04,997
and profitable
in the world of surfing.

1107
01:02:05,031 --> 01:02:08,000
Jack would ultimately
turn the day-to-day running
of his company

1108
01:02:08,034 --> 01:02:09,656
over to his children.

1109
01:02:09,691 --> 01:02:13,143
And focus his attention
to conservational efforts

1110
01:02:13,177 --> 01:02:14,592
like the Sea Odyssey.

1111
01:02:14,627 --> 01:02:17,906
A 65-foot catamaran,
and organization

1112
01:02:17,941 --> 01:02:23,256
and educate the youth
about the ocean
and its conservation.

1113
01:02:23,291 --> 01:02:25,396
The Sea Odyssey
is Jack's biggest passion.

1114
01:02:25,431 --> 01:02:27,433
The O'Neill Sea Odyssey
is just something

1115
01:02:27,467 --> 01:02:31,402
that is so important to him
over anything else now.

1116
01:02:31,437 --> 01:02:34,751
[JACK SPEAKING]

1117
01:02:37,305 --> 01:02:38,651
[BOTH LAUGHING]

1118
01:02:41,758 --> 01:02:46,003
CATHI: Jack always says, "I never knew that this company would become what it is."

1119
01:02:46,038 --> 01:02:49,455
And I think, Bruce,
you know, they get a focus
and they stick with it.

1120
01:02:49,489 --> 01:02:51,802
PAT: Well, we both think
outside the box.

1121
01:02:51,837 --> 01:02:54,460
They're definitely
their own breed
of people.

1122
01:02:54,494 --> 01:02:56,462
I think it's probably
the same mold.

1123
01:02:56,496 --> 01:03:02,295
They don't listen to anybody
but themselves and do exactly
what they want.

1124
01:03:02,330 --> 01:03:05,264
-I'm sure you know
that as well.
-Oh, yeah.

1125
01:03:05,298 --> 01:03:07,611
-You know when I think...
-[DRUM BEATING]

1126
01:03:10,062 --> 01:03:12,892
He likes to play the drums.
It's really good for him.

1127
01:03:12,927 --> 01:03:14,066
[ALL LAUGHING]

1128
01:03:15,343 --> 01:03:17,276
DANA: Jack O'Neill and Dad

1129
01:03:17,310 --> 01:03:18,725
are unique individuals.

1130
01:03:18,760 --> 01:03:21,452
They blaze their own trails.

1131
01:03:21,487 --> 01:03:24,145
These trails
their families followed.

1132
01:03:24,179 --> 01:03:26,043
Pat runs O'Neills Sport

1133
01:03:26,078 --> 01:03:29,944
and my father somehow
got me into filmmaking.

1134
01:03:32,809 --> 01:03:36,985
My dad retired from filmmaking afterOn Any Sunday.

1135
01:03:37,020 --> 01:03:38,987
He went sword fishing,

1136
01:03:39,022 --> 01:03:40,368
he collected old cars,

1137
01:03:41,714 --> 01:03:44,303
did the occasional
TV commentary,

1138
01:03:44,337 --> 01:03:46,857
surfed and rode his toys.

1139
01:03:48,341 --> 01:03:50,136
I was 29,

1140
01:03:50,171 --> 01:03:54,140
when he asked me to
restore his old surf films
for a home video release.

1141
01:03:54,175 --> 01:03:55,590
That took me a year.

1142
01:03:55,624 --> 01:03:57,419
Then Dad unretired

1143
01:03:57,454 --> 01:03:59,836
to makeThe Endless Summer II.

1144
01:04:05,048 --> 01:04:08,879
WINGNUT WEAVER: January 16th,
1:15 in the afternoon
and the phone rings,

1145
01:04:10,639 --> 01:04:12,883
and you hear this voice...

1146
01:04:12,918 --> 01:04:15,368
"This is Bruce Brown,
is Wingnut there?"

1147
01:04:15,403 --> 01:04:17,094
Yeah.

1148
01:04:17,129 --> 01:04:18,889
"Well, I was thinking
about doing a sequel
toThe Endless Summer,

1149
01:04:18,924 --> 01:04:21,305
I wanted to know
if you wanted to be
one of the two guys?"

1150
01:04:21,340 --> 01:04:22,686
I was literally
washing the dishes.

1151
01:04:22,720 --> 01:04:24,861
I'm like, "I got to
finish the dishes,

1152
01:04:24,895 --> 01:04:27,967
"but, you know,
I'm ready. I'm in!"

1153
01:04:28,002 --> 01:04:31,350
[CHUCKLES] And he's like,
"No, no, we're, like,
months away."

1154
01:04:31,384 --> 01:04:33,179
PAT: You got to think
back then, like,

1155
01:04:33,214 --> 01:04:35,354
there was, I had
an answering machine

1156
01:04:35,388 --> 01:04:36,734
that I never checked.

1157
01:04:36,769 --> 01:04:38,805
And so, the things
that we used to do

1158
01:04:38,840 --> 01:04:41,912
is we used to call people
and pretend we were
someone else.

1159
01:04:41,947 --> 01:04:45,743
So, when your dad first called
I was, like, "Bullshit."

1160
01:04:45,778 --> 01:04:47,884
Like, "Who is this?"
You know? [CHUCKLES]

1161
01:04:47,918 --> 01:04:50,507
I think I may have
hung up the first time.

1162
01:04:50,541 --> 01:04:51,922
And then your dad was like,

1163
01:04:51,957 --> 01:04:54,580
"Hey, you just
hung up on me." [LAUGHS]

1164
01:04:54,614 --> 01:04:56,651
When we showed up
for the first trip

1165
01:04:56,685 --> 01:05:00,206
going to Costa Rica,
it was like, I mean,

1166
01:05:00,241 --> 01:05:01,863
1,000 pounds of luggage.

1167
01:05:01,898 --> 01:05:05,142
And I was looking just going,
"Holy cow."

1168
01:05:05,177 --> 01:05:08,249
And that's when
I finally realized, wow,
this is really happening.

1169
01:05:08,283 --> 01:05:11,424
You know? I looked
at the tickets, saw my name,
I'm like, "That's right.

1170
01:05:11,459 --> 01:05:14,255
"That's right."[LAUGHS]

1171
01:05:14,289 --> 01:05:17,672
The main reason I did it
was because I could
work with him.

1172
01:05:17,706 --> 01:05:19,674
And the other reason was that

1173
01:05:19,708 --> 01:05:23,436
Mike Hoover was gonna be
the director of photography.

1174
01:05:23,471 --> 01:05:25,093
So, I could, theoretically,

1175
01:05:25,128 --> 01:05:30,443
just sit back on my chair
like a fat man and just point.

1176
01:05:30,478 --> 01:05:33,101
It didn't work out
that way, but...

1177
01:05:33,136 --> 01:05:35,966
We had a great group of people.

1178
01:05:36,001 --> 01:05:39,211
PAT: Outside of, obviously,
doing the film
and all that stuff,

1179
01:05:39,245 --> 01:05:43,629
the very best was
spending time with
your dad and everyone.

1180
01:05:43,663 --> 01:05:45,458
WINGNUT: I mean, it wasn't
always about the waves.

1181
01:05:45,493 --> 01:05:48,082
I mean, Bruce taught you
to turn around

1182
01:05:48,116 --> 01:05:49,152
and look where you are,

1183
01:05:49,186 --> 01:05:52,017
and enjoy the experience
of where you are.

1184
01:05:52,051 --> 01:05:55,123
PAT: That's what surf trips
are all about, you know?

1185
01:05:55,158 --> 01:05:57,815
And so, sitting there
after a day and laughing

1186
01:05:57,850 --> 01:06:01,060
whether it'd be the lions
eating Wingnut's wetsuits

1187
01:06:01,095 --> 01:06:03,994
or, um, you know,
just whatever it was

1188
01:06:04,029 --> 01:06:06,065
the crazy nut young days,
you know,

1189
01:06:06,100 --> 01:06:08,309
every day was sort of
an adventure,

1190
01:06:08,343 --> 01:06:12,554
and, you know, just laughing
at the end of the day

1191
01:06:12,589 --> 01:06:15,626
about, you know,
"What did we do today?"

1192
01:06:15,661 --> 01:06:17,974
Yeah, I remember like,
you know, those guys would go,

1193
01:06:18,008 --> 01:06:21,563
"Hey, we're gonna go
have a few beers
after we're through shooting,"

1194
01:06:21,598 --> 01:06:25,050
and I'd go, "Uh-huh."
I just stayed by myself

1195
01:06:25,084 --> 01:06:28,156
and with my little laptop'cause I'm trying to figure out,

1196
01:06:28,191 --> 01:06:30,676
"Okay, tomorrow,
what can we do..."
blah, blah, blah, blah.

1197
01:06:30,710 --> 01:06:33,782
So, that's one reason why

1198
01:06:33,817 --> 01:06:36,199
I haven't made
that many movies lately.

1199
01:06:36,233 --> 01:06:37,924
I just get burned out, you know?

1200
01:06:37,959 --> 01:06:42,377
I mean, if you wanna talk to me
about some other subject
while I'm making a movie,

1201
01:06:42,412 --> 01:06:43,827
I don't wanna talk to ya.

1202
01:06:43,861 --> 01:06:46,036
-Like, "Leave me alone,
I'm thinking."
-Yeah.

1203
01:06:46,071 --> 01:06:47,555
-[CHUCKLES]
-Yeah.

1204
01:06:47,589 --> 01:06:49,695
Which is hard
when you have a low IQ.

1205
01:06:49,729 --> 01:06:51,938
-[LAUGHS]
-To be thinking.

1206
01:06:53,388 --> 01:06:57,668
DANA: The Endless Summer II
was completed in 1994.

1207
01:06:57,703 --> 01:07:00,361
Dad immediately retired again.

1208
01:07:00,395 --> 01:07:01,845
No more films.

1209
01:07:01,879 --> 01:07:03,398
Though he helped me on mine,

1210
01:07:03,433 --> 01:07:06,091
always reminded me
he was retired.

1211
01:07:07,333 --> 01:07:08,576
He was happy.

1212
01:07:08,610 --> 01:07:10,750
He had Mom,

1213
01:07:10,785 --> 01:07:13,753
the kids were grown,
the house was to himself.

1214
01:07:13,788 --> 01:07:15,997
There would be eight grandkids
he could build on,

1215
01:07:16,032 --> 01:07:19,759
and time to spend
with his favorite person
in the world,

1216
01:07:19,794 --> 01:07:22,417
Patricia Lee Hunter Brown.

1217
01:07:22,452 --> 01:07:24,833
They did everything together.

1218
01:07:24,868 --> 01:07:27,388
Traveled together,
gardened together,

1219
01:07:27,422 --> 01:07:28,941
fishing together,

1220
01:07:28,975 --> 01:07:31,081
even rally car race together.

1221
01:07:31,116 --> 01:07:35,016
I'd bump into him
at the fucking gas
Chevron station in Malibu.

1222
01:07:35,051 --> 01:07:39,607
Your dad's driving
a fucking Subaru WRX, you know?

1223
01:07:39,641 --> 01:07:41,712
I said, "Bruce,
what are you doing?"

1224
01:07:41,747 --> 01:07:44,025
"I go rallying,
I rally this thing."

1225
01:07:44,060 --> 01:07:47,511
"Bruce, you're what,
70-something years old
and you're going..."

1226
01:07:47,546 --> 01:07:48,926
"Fuck yeah, I love it."

1227
01:07:48,961 --> 01:07:51,515
So, I mean,
that's the way Bruce was,

1228
01:07:51,550 --> 01:07:55,450
I mean, you know,
70-years-old, he's out there
fucking hanging his ass out

1229
01:07:55,485 --> 01:07:57,107
in Subarus.

1230
01:07:57,142 --> 01:07:59,799
DANA: It was truly
their golden years.

1231
01:07:59,834 --> 01:08:02,285
Dad was experiencing
a second childhood

1232
01:08:02,319 --> 01:08:05,840
with his favorite sidekick,
his true love.

1233
01:08:28,828 --> 01:08:32,108
In 2001, Mom got cancer
and beat it.

1234
01:08:32,936 --> 01:08:35,249
But late in 2005, it came back.

1235
01:08:36,042 --> 01:08:38,700
This time,
there'd be no victory.

1236
01:08:39,701 --> 01:08:44,844
On February 18th, 2006,
Mom passed.

1237
01:08:44,879 --> 01:08:47,295
The family lost its center,

1238
01:08:47,330 --> 01:08:50,712
and Dad lost
"the" person in his life.

1239
01:08:52,197 --> 01:08:56,856
Well, everybody thought
it was end of Bruce,
to be honest.

1240
01:08:56,891 --> 01:08:59,031
I didn't think
he was gonna make it.

1241
01:08:59,065 --> 01:09:01,309
That first year,
I thought it was over.

1242
01:09:01,344 --> 01:09:04,036
He did... He had no interest

1243
01:09:04,070 --> 01:09:06,038
in trying to make it work.

1244
01:09:06,072 --> 01:09:09,145
I mean, you just watched it
drain out of him.

1245
01:09:10,836 --> 01:09:14,150
DANA: The aftermath
of Mom's death was tough.

1246
01:09:16,393 --> 01:09:18,637
We tried to get Dad
out of the house,

1247
01:09:18,671 --> 01:09:20,880
and slowly
but surely he'd come.

1248
01:09:20,915 --> 01:09:23,020
But never agreeing on a trip.

1249
01:09:24,090 --> 01:09:26,817
Finally, we got him to go
on this one.

1250
01:09:27,680 --> 01:09:30,545
And,
as typical family trips go,

1251
01:09:30,580 --> 01:09:33,893
you run
into unexpected weather.

1252
01:09:33,928 --> 01:09:37,725
And then, enough people,
everyone kept coming by,

1253
01:09:37,759 --> 01:09:39,796
you know, "We're still here.

1254
01:09:39,830 --> 01:09:41,211
"We still need you."

1255
01:09:41,246 --> 01:09:44,456
And that's where that group of friends came back

1256
01:09:44,490 --> 01:09:45,767
and made sure...

1257
01:09:46,665 --> 01:09:49,046
And he said, "Shit." [LAUGHS]

1258
01:09:49,081 --> 01:09:51,497
You know, and he had to.
He had to stick around.

1259
01:09:52,947 --> 01:09:55,087
DANA: It's been...

1260
01:09:55,121 --> 01:09:58,090
when Kenny talked about Mom
a little more...

1261
01:09:59,195 --> 01:10:01,887
When we were talking
in this kitchen,

1262
01:10:01,921 --> 01:10:03,647
you know,
I mentioned what you said

1263
01:10:03,682 --> 01:10:05,580
-about him calling.
-BRUCE: Yeah.

1264
01:10:05,615 --> 01:10:08,480
He kinda, in a good way,

1265
01:10:08,514 --> 01:10:09,895
he said,
"Yeah, we weren't so sure

1266
01:10:09,929 --> 01:10:13,416
"your dad
was gonna make it," you know,

1267
01:10:13,450 --> 01:10:15,521
"after your mom passed."

1268
01:10:16,384 --> 01:10:17,868
But you know, you have.

1269
01:10:17,903 --> 01:10:20,043
I know. [SNIFFLES]

1270
01:10:20,077 --> 01:10:22,356
DANA: I mean, you know,

1271
01:10:22,390 --> 01:10:26,118
-it ain't easy,
but you make us laugh...
-[CHUCKLES]

1272
01:10:26,739 --> 01:10:28,120
Yeah.

1273
01:10:28,154 --> 01:10:29,604
DANA: You know what I mean?

1274
01:10:29,639 --> 01:10:31,123
I mean, you're still...

1275
01:10:31,157 --> 01:10:33,539
I mean, except
for your fucking dog...

1276
01:10:33,574 --> 01:10:35,334
We should...

1277
01:10:35,369 --> 01:10:37,129
It's not the same.

1278
01:10:37,163 --> 01:10:38,682
DANA: No.

1279
01:10:38,717 --> 01:10:42,238
It was... It was tough.
[SNIFFLING]

1280
01:10:43,480 --> 01:10:44,826
I couldn't even sleep in the...

1281
01:10:47,173 --> 01:10:48,278
[SNIFFLES]

1282
01:10:49,314 --> 01:10:50,591
DANA: Yeah.

1283
01:10:50,625 --> 01:10:52,627
I couldn't even sleep
in the bedroom
for like six months.

1284
01:10:52,662 --> 01:10:54,250
I slept down the hall.

1285
01:10:55,147 --> 01:10:56,182
[CHUCKLES]

1286
01:10:57,322 --> 01:10:58,495
Ah!

1287
01:11:02,258 --> 01:11:04,467
This is kinda like 60 Minutes.

1288
01:11:04,501 --> 01:11:07,124
[BRUCE AND DANA LAUGHING]

1289
01:11:07,159 --> 01:11:09,782
It's too bad there's
no Barbara Walters here...

1290
01:11:09,817 --> 01:11:13,061
"Get the guy crying..."

1291
01:11:13,096 --> 01:11:15,409
DANA: That's good.
He looks like hell.

1292
01:11:15,443 --> 01:11:16,824
I'm sorry.

1293
01:11:16,858 --> 01:11:19,413
BRUCE: I actually, no...
DANA: I was talking
about Mom earlier...

1294
01:11:19,447 --> 01:11:22,105
-BRUCE: Sometimes I handle it better than others. -Yeah.

1295
01:11:23,969 --> 01:11:26,143
♪ You're far away

1296
01:11:28,042 --> 01:11:30,147
♪ From me my love

1297
01:11:32,426 --> 01:11:35,152
♪ But just as sure

1298
01:11:36,188 --> 01:11:38,915
♪ As there are stars above

1299
01:11:38,949 --> 01:11:41,193
♪ I know, darling

1300
01:11:41,227 --> 01:11:42,919
♪ Someday

1301
01:11:42,953 --> 01:11:46,957
♪ We'll be together

1302
01:11:49,719 --> 01:11:50,996
♪ Someday

1303
01:11:51,030 --> 01:11:55,241
♪ We'll be together

1304
01:11:57,451 --> 01:12:00,523
-♪ Long time ago
-[IMPERCEPTIBLE]

1305
01:12:01,869 --> 01:12:04,458
♪ I made a big mistake

1306
01:12:05,700 --> 01:12:07,081
♪ Why

1307
01:12:07,806 --> 01:12:11,223
♪ I said goodbye

1308
01:12:11,257 --> 01:12:13,329
♪ But, oh, my darling

1309
01:12:14,399 --> 01:12:16,228
♪ Ever

1310
01:12:16,262 --> 01:12:17,816
♪ Ever

1311
01:12:17,850 --> 01:12:21,509
♪ Ever since that day, babe

1312
01:12:21,544 --> 01:12:23,684
♪ All I

1313
01:12:23,718 --> 01:12:27,826
♪ All I do is cry

1314
01:12:27,860 --> 01:12:29,897
♪ I just wanna tell you
That I

1315
01:12:29,931 --> 01:12:32,658
♪ I long for you

1316
01:12:35,385 --> 01:12:37,594
♪ Every night

1317
01:12:39,009 --> 01:12:42,116
♪ To kiss your lips

1318
01:12:42,772 --> 01:12:45,913
♪ To hold you tight

1319
01:12:45,947 --> 01:12:47,397
♪ I know, darling

1320
01:12:48,398 --> 01:12:49,917
♪ Someday

1321
01:12:49,951 --> 01:12:53,299
♪ We'll be together

1322
01:12:56,441 --> 01:12:58,063
♪ Someday

1323
01:12:58,097 --> 01:13:01,480
♪ We'll be together

1324
01:13:01,515 --> 01:13:04,587
♪ Just when the moon
is gonna rise

1325
01:13:04,621 --> 01:13:06,209
♪ Someday

1326
01:13:06,243 --> 01:13:09,937
♪ We'll be together

1327
01:13:09,971 --> 01:13:12,940
♪ As long as stars
Are in the sky

1328
01:13:12,974 --> 01:13:14,666
♪ Someday

1329
01:13:14,700 --> 01:13:18,048
♪ We'll be together

1330
01:13:18,083 --> 01:13:21,086
♪ I could love you
all the time

1331
01:13:21,120 --> 01:13:23,122
♪ Someday...

1332
01:13:33,995 --> 01:13:36,584
DANA: Dad never stopped
missing Mom.

1333
01:13:36,619 --> 01:13:39,207
But he still
loves seeing old friends,

1334
01:13:39,242 --> 01:13:40,795
and meeting new ones.

1335
01:13:40,830 --> 01:13:45,213
In Hawaii,
he became a veritable
social butterfly.

1336
01:13:45,248 --> 01:13:47,423
[PEOPLE SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY]

1337
01:13:50,495 --> 01:13:52,013
WOMEN: Hi!

1338
01:13:54,015 --> 01:13:56,742
DANA: Dad's reclusiveness
dissolved entirely

1339
01:13:56,777 --> 01:13:59,573
and he was the first in the car when we went to Makaha

1340
01:13:59,607 --> 01:14:02,161
to see Buffalo,
and Momi Keaulana...

1341
01:14:02,196 --> 01:14:04,716
at Buffalo's Longboard contest.

1342
01:14:04,750 --> 01:14:08,651
Their's was a friendship
that spans six decades.

1343
01:14:08,685 --> 01:14:12,655
You know, your father
has many, many, many friends.

1344
01:14:12,689 --> 01:14:15,451
and, I says, "You know what?
We don't see him very often,

1345
01:14:15,485 --> 01:14:17,660
but when we see him,
it's just like yesterday.

1346
01:14:17,694 --> 01:14:19,489
[WOMAN LAUGHS]

1347
01:14:19,524 --> 01:14:22,354
So, I'd like
to introduce the man himself,

1348
01:14:22,388 --> 01:14:25,840
please come up and join me,
Mr. Bruce Brown.

1349
01:14:25,875 --> 01:14:30,189
DANA: He even accepted
an invitation to speak
at the Turtle Bay Hilton,

1350
01:14:30,224 --> 01:14:32,778
telling stories
about the good old days.

1351
01:14:32,813 --> 01:14:35,436
Some of my best friends go,
"That movie
was a piece of crap."

1352
01:14:35,471 --> 01:14:37,438
-[AUDIENCE LAUGHS]
-You know...

1353
01:14:37,473 --> 01:14:39,026
I don't know how to argue
with them.

1354
01:14:39,060 --> 01:14:40,614
"It was a whole movie,
what do you expect?"

1355
01:14:40,648 --> 01:14:42,132
[LAUGHS]

1356
01:14:44,549 --> 01:14:46,516
DANA: One of our last stops
in Oahu

1357
01:14:46,551 --> 01:14:50,244
was at the birthplace
of modern surfing, Waikiki.

1358
01:14:52,418 --> 01:14:55,214
Dad wanted to say "hi"
to two old friends.

1359
01:14:55,249 --> 01:14:58,183
Fred Hemmings,
former Lieutenant governor
of Hawaii,

1360
01:14:58,217 --> 01:15:01,669
and Joey Cabell, founder of the Chart House restaurant.

1361
01:15:01,704 --> 01:15:06,985
The three of them had known each other as surfers long before they had real jobs.

1362
01:15:07,019 --> 01:15:10,609
ANNOUNCER: [OVER SPEAKERS]
You know, I have to interrupt
Jeff for a minute because...

1363
01:15:10,644 --> 01:15:12,853
How many of you remember

1364
01:15:12,887 --> 01:15:14,406
back in the '60s,

1365
01:15:14,440 --> 01:15:17,685
all the surfing films?
By applause.

1366
01:15:17,720 --> 01:15:19,894
[AUDIENCE APPLAUDING]

1367
01:15:19,929 --> 01:15:21,551
I don't wanna embarrass him,

1368
01:15:21,586 --> 01:15:25,382
but one of my favorite films
is a film called
The Endless Summer.

1369
01:15:25,417 --> 01:15:27,246
Please welcome
to our gathering today,

1370
01:15:27,281 --> 01:15:31,147
the cinematographer
and creator of some great
surf films, Mr. Bruce Brown.

1371
01:15:31,181 --> 01:15:33,356
[ALL APPLAUDING]

1372
01:15:33,874 --> 01:15:35,220
Wow.

1373
01:15:37,118 --> 01:15:39,224
Hey, Bruce,Aloha!

1374
01:15:39,258 --> 01:15:41,226
I have a signed poster
ofThe Endless Summer.

1375
01:15:41,260 --> 01:15:43,262
Yeah...[EXCLAIMS] Terrific.

1376
01:15:43,297 --> 01:15:45,195
-[MEN LAUGH]
-MAN 1: Haven't tried...

1377
01:15:45,230 --> 01:15:46,611
[BRUCE SPEAKING]

1378
01:15:48,751 --> 01:15:50,684
MAN 2: Get 'em

1379
01:15:52,617 --> 01:15:54,619
[PEOPLE LAUGH]

1380
01:15:55,136 --> 01:15:56,552
[SPEAKING]

1381
01:16:02,247 --> 01:16:03,559
[BRUCE SPEAKING]

1382
01:16:03,593 --> 01:16:04,732
[SPEAKING]

1383
01:16:05,699 --> 01:16:07,010
[BRUCE SPEAKING]

1384
01:16:07,045 --> 01:16:08,771
[DANA SPEAKING]

1385
01:16:08,805 --> 01:16:10,117
[SPEAKING]

1386
01:16:10,151 --> 01:16:11,256
BRUCE: Yeah.
DANA: Yeah. [CHUCKLING]

1387
01:16:11,290 --> 01:16:13,534
See a little...
That's what it's called.

1388
01:16:13,569 --> 01:16:14,362
[SPEAKING]

1389
01:16:14,397 --> 01:16:15,778
Yeah, I know, right?

1390
01:16:16,295 --> 01:16:18,504
[JOEY SPEAKING]

1391
01:16:24,510 --> 01:16:26,582
BRUCE: I think so. [CHUCKLING]

1392
01:16:26,616 --> 01:16:28,238
[SPEAKING]

1393
01:16:28,273 --> 01:16:29,481
BRUCE: That's right.

1394
01:16:29,515 --> 01:16:30,827
[SPEAKING]

1395
01:16:32,760 --> 01:16:34,417
-[BRUCE SPEAKING]
-Right?

1396
01:16:45,601 --> 01:16:47,085
[SPEAKING]

1397
01:16:47,119 --> 01:16:49,328
[PEOPLE LAUGH]

1398
01:16:51,261 --> 01:16:52,918
[SPEAKING]

1399
01:16:52,953 --> 01:16:54,955
[BRUCE SPEAKING]

1400
01:17:03,619 --> 01:17:05,103
[SPEAKING]

1401
01:17:05,137 --> 01:17:06,104
[BRUCE SPEAKS]

1402
01:17:06,138 --> 01:17:07,623
[SPEAKING]

1403
01:17:07,657 --> 01:17:10,626
BRUCE: I gotta say,
my number one,

1404
01:17:10,660 --> 01:17:12,317
uh...

1405
01:17:12,351 --> 01:17:15,285
surf hero of all time
is Henry Preece,

1406
01:17:15,320 --> 01:17:18,185
-and...
-[AUDIENCE APPLAUDING]

1407
01:17:18,219 --> 01:17:20,359
You know,
when I first came here,

1408
01:17:20,394 --> 01:17:25,157
we'd go up to, you know,
North Shore, it was like,
"God!" It was unbelievable.

1409
01:17:25,192 --> 01:17:27,850
You go to...,
it's like 25 feet,

1410
01:17:27,884 --> 01:17:30,680
but it's only
like four feet to in Hawaiian.

1411
01:17:30,715 --> 01:17:32,751
[AUDIENCE LAUGHING]

1412
01:17:32,786 --> 01:17:37,480
Here's Henry. Big strapping guy. And he was, you know, quite...

1413
01:17:38,274 --> 01:17:39,827
Unlike some of us.

1414
01:17:39,862 --> 01:17:43,520
YOUNG BRUCE: In the mid-50s,
when we first went
to the islands,

1415
01:17:43,555 --> 01:17:45,902
some of the locals
weren't too friendly.

1416
01:17:45,937 --> 01:17:49,319
Henry Preece,
who was the unofficial mayor
of Haleiwa,

1417
01:17:49,354 --> 01:17:53,323
befriended us and kept us alive on the North Shore.

1418
01:17:53,358 --> 01:17:55,187
One of my most
vivid recollections

1419
01:17:55,222 --> 01:17:57,327
of Haleiwa
was seeing Henry Preece

1420
01:17:57,362 --> 01:17:59,329
surfing a wave
well over his head

1421
01:17:59,364 --> 01:18:01,504
and right
in the critical spot...

1422
01:18:02,229 --> 01:18:03,955
Riding it, he turns back...

1423
01:18:10,755 --> 01:18:12,273
Blesses the wave,

1424
01:18:12,308 --> 01:18:15,311
and I'm thinking,
"God, that's so cool."

1425
01:18:17,140 --> 01:18:18,694
YOUNG BRUCE:
I'll never forget that.

1426
01:18:21,351 --> 01:18:25,217
Yeah, so, he's number one.
We're gonna go see him
in a couple of days.

1427
01:18:25,252 --> 01:18:26,702
FEMALE INTERVIEWER:
That's fantastic.

1428
01:18:26,736 --> 01:18:28,669
That's great
to be able to do that
even after all these years

1429
01:18:28,704 --> 01:18:30,706
and have Henry Preece
to still check in with.

1430
01:18:30,740 --> 01:18:32,052
-Hi.
-Hey.

1431
01:18:32,086 --> 01:18:33,570
[WOMAN LAUGHS]

1432
01:18:33,605 --> 01:18:35,331
[SPEAKING]

1433
01:18:37,160 --> 01:18:38,299
Hey, how you doing?

1434
01:18:38,334 --> 01:18:39,956
Good, good to see you.

1435
01:18:39,991 --> 01:18:41,302
Good seeing ya.

1436
01:18:41,337 --> 01:18:43,822
Yeah, it's been
a long time, huh, man?

1437
01:18:43,857 --> 01:18:45,065
[SPEAKING]

1438
01:18:49,517 --> 01:18:51,485
Yeah, exactly.
That's what I thought.

1439
01:18:51,519 --> 01:18:53,349
Five, ten? No, '92.

1440
01:18:53,383 --> 01:18:55,385
-You've done it.
-Yeah.

1441
01:18:55,420 --> 01:18:57,560
Yeah, couldn't believe
when I called you, you'd go,

1442
01:18:57,594 --> 01:19:00,805
"Hey, Bruce!"
Like I called you every day.

1443
01:19:00,839 --> 01:19:02,358
Come on, sit down.

1444
01:19:03,014 --> 01:19:04,567
[SPEAKING]

1445
01:19:04,601 --> 01:19:06,880
Oh, just fucking off.

1446
01:19:06,914 --> 01:19:08,329
[SPEAKING]

1447
01:19:08,364 --> 01:19:09,606
[LAUGHS]

1448
01:19:09,641 --> 01:19:11,608
[BRUCE SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY]

1449
01:19:11,643 --> 01:19:15,751
Dana's doing a, like a film
where he's travelling around,
I'm seeing all my old heroes,

1450
01:19:15,785 --> 01:19:17,753
-surfing and motorcycle racing.
-Okay.

1451
01:19:17,787 --> 01:19:20,756
And of course,you were at the top of the list.

1452
01:19:20,790 --> 01:19:21,964
[SPEAKING]

1453
01:19:23,828 --> 01:19:25,864
-Yeah.
-[LAUGHS]

1454
01:19:25,899 --> 01:19:27,279
I know.

1455
01:19:27,314 --> 01:19:29,557
Yeah...

1456
01:19:29,592 --> 01:19:32,353
Yeah, I remember we'd go
to like a party or something,

1457
01:19:32,388 --> 01:19:35,529
and some Hawaiian
who didn't like my looks

1458
01:19:35,563 --> 01:19:37,876
would come over towards me
and you'd kinda go,

1459
01:19:38,601 --> 01:19:40,568
-and you'd...
-[LAUGHS]

1460
01:19:40,603 --> 01:19:42,570
"Thanks, Henry, saved again."

1461
01:19:44,124 --> 01:19:45,608
[SPEAKING]

1462
01:19:57,275 --> 01:19:58,586
He saved my life.

1463
01:19:58,621 --> 01:20:00,796
-[ALL LAUGHING]
-BRUCE: Yeah, me too.

1464
01:20:00,830 --> 01:20:02,245
More than once.

1465
01:20:02,280 --> 01:20:04,109
[SPEAKING]

1466
01:20:13,809 --> 01:20:15,017
Yeah.

1467
01:20:16,190 --> 01:20:18,468
-So, you got the big C, I heard?-Huh?

1468
01:20:18,503 --> 01:20:20,574
-You got the big C?
-What is that?

1469
01:20:20,608 --> 01:20:22,231
-The cancer?
-Yeah.

1470
01:20:22,265 --> 01:20:23,404
Yeah.

1471
01:20:23,439 --> 01:20:24,681
Yeah, my...

1472
01:20:24,716 --> 01:20:26,683
[SPEAKING]

1473
01:20:26,718 --> 01:20:28,133
Still look
pretty good though...

1474
01:20:28,168 --> 01:20:29,790
-Yeah.
-...for an old fart.

1475
01:20:29,825 --> 01:20:30,826
[SPEAKING]

1476
01:20:30,860 --> 01:20:32,137
Yeah.

1477
01:20:32,172 --> 01:20:35,451
Yeah, my wife,
we went through
all the fucking treatments

1478
01:20:35,485 --> 01:20:37,280
and for five years,
you know, it kept,

1479
01:20:37,315 --> 01:20:38,972
"Oh, it's gone,
whoops, it came back,"

1480
01:20:39,006 --> 01:20:42,147
and you know,
she finally passed away, so...

1481
01:20:42,182 --> 01:20:43,804
[SPEAKING]

1482
01:20:45,910 --> 01:20:46,911
Yeah?

1483
01:20:46,945 --> 01:20:48,567
[SPEAKING]

1484
01:20:49,741 --> 01:20:50,638
Yeah?

1485
01:20:51,191 --> 01:20:53,607
Yeah.

1486
01:20:53,641 --> 01:20:55,885
So, you aren't doing
any treatments
or anything, though?

1487
01:20:55,920 --> 01:20:57,438
Uh-huh. Huh?

1488
01:20:57,473 --> 01:20:59,302
No treatments or anything?

1489
01:20:59,337 --> 01:21:00,959
[SPEAKING]

1490
01:21:04,652 --> 01:21:07,276
Not any chemo or anything?

1491
01:21:07,310 --> 01:21:08,518
[SPEAKING]

1492
01:21:08,898 --> 01:21:09,968
Yeah.

1493
01:21:10,003 --> 01:21:10,969
[SPEAKING]

1494
01:21:11,004 --> 01:21:12,074
Yeah.

1495
01:21:19,150 --> 01:21:22,187
-We spent
a lot of happy times here, huh?
-Oh, yeah.

1496
01:21:24,362 --> 01:21:26,571
[HENRY SPEAKING]

1497
01:21:50,802 --> 01:21:53,978
MAN 1: You know,
I always look at it as,

1498
01:21:54,012 --> 01:21:58,189
you know, one of the biggest
privileges of my life

1499
01:21:58,223 --> 01:21:59,500
to get to know these guys.

1500
01:21:59,535 --> 01:22:02,193
And, everybody
looks from the outside,

1501
01:22:03,435 --> 01:22:06,335
like he said,
these guys were...

1502
01:22:06,369 --> 01:22:08,026
screw ups, you know?

1503
01:22:08,061 --> 01:22:09,579
But they're not.

1504
01:22:10,546 --> 01:22:12,272
They're really not.

1505
01:22:13,721 --> 01:22:15,896
MAN 2: You know,
you look at those people
and, uh...

1506
01:22:16,724 --> 01:22:19,693
they managed to have families

1507
01:22:19,727 --> 01:22:21,522
and grandchildren,

1508
01:22:21,557 --> 01:22:23,731
and travel through life,

1509
01:22:23,766 --> 01:22:25,526
but, you know,
still take a moment

1510
01:22:25,561 --> 01:22:27,252
to laugh and share a story

1511
01:22:27,287 --> 01:22:31,015
and not forget about it,
make it important,
make it a part.

1512
01:22:31,049 --> 01:22:32,982
KENNY: You know, everything that me and your dad

1513
01:22:33,017 --> 01:22:34,984
has always done
has just been pleasure,

1514
01:22:35,019 --> 01:22:38,022
nothing...
You know, even work
to us is pleasure

1515
01:22:38,056 --> 01:22:40,300
because, you know,
he's gonna say something

1516
01:22:40,334 --> 01:22:41,542
or I'm gonna say something,

1517
01:22:41,577 --> 01:22:43,061
and we're all
gonna start laughing.

1518
01:22:43,579 --> 01:22:44,752
MAN 1: I got to see

1519
01:22:44,787 --> 01:22:48,032
and do a lot
of really neat stuff

1520
01:22:48,066 --> 01:22:49,205
with him.

1521
01:22:49,240 --> 01:22:50,655
You know, it's...

1522
01:22:50,689 --> 01:22:55,073
I mean, I'll treasure
all those experiences forever.

1523
01:23:02,770 --> 01:23:04,324
DANA: Henry has passed,

1524
01:23:05,428 --> 01:23:07,465
Hobie has passed,

1525
01:23:07,499 --> 01:23:09,570
Jack O'Neill,

1526
01:23:09,605 --> 01:23:11,400
and June Lawwill have passed.

1527
01:23:11,434 --> 01:23:13,609
[SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY]

1528
01:23:17,716 --> 01:23:19,615
It doesn't last forever.

1529
01:23:20,788 --> 01:23:23,170
But a life well lived
goes on and on.

1530
01:23:25,552 --> 01:23:28,106
Like a pebble
dropped in the water,

1531
01:23:28,141 --> 01:23:29,245
the pebble stops

1532
01:23:29,280 --> 01:23:32,731
long before the ripples
are done rolling.

1533
01:24:05,488 --> 01:24:07,214
My dad's gone now, too.

1534
01:24:08,664 --> 01:24:10,942
But his legacy lives on...

1535
01:24:11,943 --> 01:24:13,462
And so do the laughs...

1536
01:24:13,496 --> 01:24:15,464
[LAUGHING]

1537
01:24:15,498 --> 01:24:17,466
...the smiles,

1538
01:24:17,500 --> 01:24:19,399
and the lessons we learned,

1539
01:24:19,433 --> 01:24:23,265
like, "Get your ass
off the couch,
and go have an adventure."

1540
01:24:24,749 --> 01:24:27,131
Hold your friends very close

1541
01:24:27,165 --> 01:24:31,031
because they provide help
through life's hardships.

1542
01:24:31,066 --> 01:24:34,345
We need to make the most
of our limited time here,

1543
01:24:37,175 --> 01:24:38,487
and most of all,

1544
01:24:38,521 --> 01:24:40,385
have fun,

1545
01:24:40,420 --> 01:24:42,146
and be good,

1546
01:24:42,180 --> 01:24:45,218
the best good you can.

1547
01:24:49,360 --> 01:24:52,190
YOUNG BRUCE: If you're willing
to take a leap of faith,

1548
01:24:52,225 --> 01:24:53,881
get off your butt,

1549
01:24:55,435 --> 01:24:58,438
who knows how many great things are waiting
in the world out there.

1550
01:25:47,418 --> 01:25:49,420
♪ It's off to the races

1551
01:25:49,454 --> 01:25:51,974
♪ And onto greener pastures

1552
01:25:55,115 --> 01:25:59,326
♪ Tip-toe along
through the disaster

1553
01:26:02,709 --> 01:26:04,849
♪ And I'm all right

1554
01:26:06,161 --> 01:26:08,784
♪ It's what I tell myself

1555
01:26:10,441 --> 01:26:14,479
♪ This whole world
keeps pushing faster

1556
01:26:22,142 --> 01:26:24,317
[PEOPLE SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY]

1557
01:26:29,149 --> 01:26:31,047
This here is Bruce Brown,

1558
01:26:31,082 --> 01:26:32,601
he is one of the greatest

1559
01:26:32,635 --> 01:26:35,431
cinematographers of that era.

1560
01:26:35,466 --> 01:26:39,090
-What do you mean,
"of that era"?
-[AUDIENCE LAUGHING]

1561
01:26:39,470 --> 01:26:40,850
[LAUGHING]

1562
01:26:40,885 --> 01:26:43,715
I can't agree with
all this nice stuff about him.

1563
01:26:43,750 --> 01:26:45,372
BRUCE: Oh, typical Gordon,
you know,

1564
01:26:45,407 --> 01:26:48,444
he's led me down the garden pathway too many times.

1565
01:26:48,479 --> 01:26:51,067
-A shithole.
-[LAUGHS]

1566
01:26:53,484 --> 01:26:54,864
BRUCE: It's cold!

1567
01:26:54,899 --> 01:26:57,350
Let's go back to the house
and tell jokes.

1568
01:26:57,384 --> 01:26:58,454
[ALL LAUGHING]

1569
01:26:58,489 --> 01:27:00,525
-Tell old Grubby stories.
-No.

1570
01:27:00,560 --> 01:27:02,527
-NANCY: Later. Later.
-This is your story right here.

1571
01:27:02,562 --> 01:27:04,391
[LAUGHING]

1572
01:27:11,398 --> 01:27:13,711
Yeah, exactly.

1573
01:27:13,745 --> 01:27:17,991
Some of the critics
for both Endless Summer
and On Any Sunday,

1574
01:27:18,025 --> 01:27:20,752
the reviewers hated
my narration.

1575
01:27:20,787 --> 01:27:22,892
-Said it sounded
like Howdy Doody.
-[LAUGHS]

1576
01:27:22,927 --> 01:27:28,035
And so... So, Dana
had a couple of reviews.

1577
01:27:28,070 --> 01:27:31,349
They said he sounded
like Kermit the Frog.

1578
01:27:31,384 --> 01:27:34,007
So, it's like,
we call each other
on the phone,

1579
01:27:34,041 --> 01:27:35,733
and go, "Kermit!
Howdy Doody here!"

1580
01:27:35,767 --> 01:27:37,044
Yeah.

1581
01:27:42,257 --> 01:27:46,537
♪ Children growin' up
without rules

1582
01:27:49,919 --> 01:27:54,372
♪ It's easy to give up
It's easy to give in

1583
01:27:57,410 --> 01:28:01,552
♪ Brother,
you gotta take a stand

1584
01:28:05,349 --> 01:28:07,627
♪ Shine a light

1585
01:28:08,938 --> 01:28:11,286
♪ Wherever you can

1586
01:28:12,390 --> 01:28:16,981
♪ Not another robot
working for the man

1587
01:28:20,605 --> 01:28:22,435
♪ Shine a light

1588
01:28:24,471 --> 01:28:26,439
♪ Wherever you can

1589
01:28:27,957 --> 01:28:32,514
♪ Not another robot
working for the man ♪