WEBVTT FILE 1 00:00:00.541 --> 00:00:03.291 (soothing music) 2 00:00:02.000 --> 00:00:07.000 Downloaded from YTS.MX 3 00:00:05.578 --> 00:00:07.320 (dramatic music) 4 00:00:07.320 --> 00:00:09.603 - [Narrator] Where soaring granite peaks, 5 00:00:08.000 --> 00:00:13.000 Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX 6 00:00:10.800 --> 00:00:13.993 waterfalls, among the world's tallest, 7 00:00:13.993 --> 00:00:18.640 sweeping meadows, and gigantic sequoias 8 00:00:18.640 --> 00:00:21.973 conspire to create a beauty beyond belief. 9 00:00:23.710 --> 00:00:27.413 Join us as we head skyward with rock jocks. 10 00:00:30.790 --> 00:00:32.660 Glide through the valley. 11 00:00:32.660 --> 00:00:34.720 - [Paraglider] Yeah baby! 12 00:00:34.720 --> 00:00:37.350 - [Narrator] Seek out the places where the deer, 13 00:00:37.350 --> 00:00:39.523 the bear, and the bear patrol roam. 14 00:00:40.700 --> 00:00:43.653 - [Man] No bear on scene, and damage to three vehicles. 15 00:00:45.760 --> 00:00:48.427 - [Narrator] And recharge at the queen of lodges. 16 00:00:50.730 --> 00:00:53.110 In a legendary landscape, 17 00:00:53.110 --> 00:00:54.130 we'll explore 18 00:00:56.060 --> 00:00:58.113 all the wonders of Yosemite. 19 00:00:59.230 --> 00:01:01.102 America's treasure. 20 00:01:01.102 --> 00:01:03.852 (dramatic music) 21 00:01:13.794 --> 00:01:15.980 (gentle music) 22 00:01:15.980 --> 00:01:18.590 The first visitors might have wondered 23 00:01:18.590 --> 00:01:19.763 if they were dreaming. 24 00:01:21.650 --> 00:01:25.260 Set amid Northern California's Sierra Nevada, 25 00:01:25.260 --> 00:01:28.703 Yosemite National Park reigns supreme. 26 00:01:31.040 --> 00:01:35.230 On the horizon, Mount Hoffman is the geographic center 27 00:01:35.230 --> 00:01:38.563 of the 750,000 acre area. 28 00:01:39.790 --> 00:01:43.980 Yet one valley, hailed as the incomparable valley, 29 00:01:43.980 --> 00:01:48.253 is so celebrated that many think it is Yosemite. 30 00:01:49.800 --> 00:01:53.840 - Although Yosemite Valley is only 5% of the park, 31 00:01:53.840 --> 00:01:56.913 it's where 95% of the visitors go. 32 00:01:58.330 --> 00:02:00.440 Yosemite Valley itself is only 33 00:02:00.440 --> 00:02:04.310 one mile wide, and seven miles long. 34 00:02:04.310 --> 00:02:06.729 However, Yosemite Valley contains 35 00:02:06.729 --> 00:02:10.310 the icons that people come to see. 36 00:02:10.310 --> 00:02:12.073 - [Narrator] Icons like El Capitan, 37 00:02:13.030 --> 00:02:16.103 one of the largest monoliths of granite on earth. 38 00:02:18.340 --> 00:02:21.923 Among the world's greatest concentration of granite domes, 39 00:02:21.923 --> 00:02:24.593 Half Dome dominates. 40 00:02:26.550 --> 00:02:29.630 Although it's actually 3/4 of a dome, 41 00:02:29.630 --> 00:02:32.863 the celebrated shape can be seen from all sides. 42 00:02:33.800 --> 00:02:35.263 And there's no other half. 43 00:02:36.460 --> 00:02:40.483 The face of the mountain eroded away, bit by bit. 44 00:02:42.530 --> 00:02:46.163 While Yellowstone is America's first national park, 45 00:02:48.020 --> 00:02:50.253 Yosemite set the stage. 46 00:02:53.120 --> 00:02:56.750 Profound beauty, and a botanical wonder, 47 00:02:56.750 --> 00:03:00.230 the giant sequoias were cause for President Lincoln, 48 00:03:00.230 --> 00:03:02.107 in the midst of the Civil War, 49 00:03:02.107 --> 00:03:04.267 to set aside land to be held 50 00:03:04.267 --> 00:03:08.083 for public use, resort, and recreation. 51 00:03:09.430 --> 00:03:12.000 - This was known as the Yosemite Grant, 52 00:03:12.000 --> 00:03:13.060 and was the first time 53 00:03:13.060 --> 00:03:15.120 in not only the history of this country, 54 00:03:15.120 --> 00:03:16.820 but the history of the world, 55 00:03:16.820 --> 00:03:18.560 that a piece of land was set aside 56 00:03:18.560 --> 00:03:21.189 strictly for preservation. 57 00:03:21.189 --> 00:03:23.856 (intense music) 58 00:03:24.907 --> 00:03:29.350 Powerful geological forces raised the Sierra Nevada 59 00:03:29.350 --> 00:03:30.683 to its present height. 60 00:03:31.980 --> 00:03:35.800 During the Ice Age some three million years ago, 61 00:03:35.800 --> 00:03:39.310 glaciers carved the U-shaped canyons. 62 00:03:39.310 --> 00:03:42.220 - If we look straight across and imagine that there was ice 63 00:03:42.220 --> 00:03:44.800 from the rim of the falls all the way 64 00:03:44.800 --> 00:03:46.513 almost over to where we are, 65 00:03:47.530 --> 00:03:49.430 That's a lotta ice. 66 00:03:49.430 --> 00:03:52.960 And a lot of weight, and a lot of power. 67 00:03:52.960 --> 00:03:56.270 As this ice was slowing moving through the valley, 68 00:03:56.270 --> 00:03:58.513 it just plucked rocks away. 69 00:04:00.890 --> 00:04:05.130 - [Narrator] Glacier handiwork created Yosemite Falls. 70 00:04:05.130 --> 00:04:09.330 At over 2,400 feet, it's the tallest 71 00:04:09.330 --> 00:04:11.768 waterfall in North America. 72 00:04:11.768 --> 00:04:14.518 (dramatic music) 73 00:04:19.165 --> 00:04:22.190 Across the valley, Bridal Veil Falls 74 00:04:22.190 --> 00:04:24.203 is named for its lacy mist. 75 00:04:26.130 --> 00:04:28.616 Powered by snow melt and gravity, 76 00:04:28.616 --> 00:04:32.264 peak season for waterfall watching is spring. 77 00:04:32.264 --> 00:04:34.931 (water roaring) 78 00:04:37.730 --> 00:04:42.550 With over 800 miles of trails, Yosemite is a Mecca 79 00:04:42.550 --> 00:04:45.700 for daytrippers and backpackers. 80 00:04:45.700 --> 00:04:48.657 According to Ann Marie Brown, guide and author of 81 00:04:48.657 --> 00:04:52.820 "250 Great Hikes in California's National Parks," 82 00:04:52.820 --> 00:04:57.410 the best way to get away from the crowds is to head up. 83 00:04:57.410 --> 00:04:59.410 - It's just a matter of truth 84 00:04:59.410 --> 00:05:02.680 that the vast majority of people will stop going 85 00:05:02.680 --> 00:05:04.680 as the elevation gets higher and higher. 86 00:05:06.640 --> 00:05:09.960 - [Narrator] Amid the many scenic climbs out of the valley, 87 00:05:09.960 --> 00:05:12.687 the Mist Trail is a must do. 88 00:05:12.687 --> 00:05:15.437 (pleasant music) 89 00:05:16.650 --> 00:05:21.320 It's here, Vernal Falls cascades over giant steps 90 00:05:21.320 --> 00:05:24.453 carved as glacial ice moved down the valley. 91 00:05:26.500 --> 00:05:29.510 The trail, a manmade work of art, 92 00:05:29.510 --> 00:05:32.033 runs right along the edge of the spray. 93 00:05:34.530 --> 00:05:38.163 The falls drop 317 feet. 94 00:05:40.100 --> 00:05:43.680 At its base, sunshine meets mist, 95 00:05:43.680 --> 00:05:47.890 light breaks into the vivid colors of the rainbow, 96 00:05:47.890 --> 00:05:51.010 all in a place that looks like Eden. 97 00:05:51.010 --> 00:05:53.760 (pleasant music) 98 00:05:56.460 --> 00:05:59.870 Nevada Falls is yet another perfect union 99 00:05:59.870 --> 00:06:02.073 of sky, rock, and water. 100 00:06:08.270 --> 00:06:11.203 The Mist Trail winds relentlessly up. 101 00:06:14.720 --> 00:06:18.460 For the super fit, with muscles aching for more, 102 00:06:18.460 --> 00:06:20.363 it's onward to Half Dome. 103 00:06:22.830 --> 00:06:27.830 In 1870, geologist Josiah D. Whitney declared that Half Dome 104 00:06:27.840 --> 00:06:31.002 would probably never been trodden by human foot, 105 00:06:31.002 --> 00:06:34.850 but hidden from his view, on the eastern side, 106 00:06:34.850 --> 00:06:38.290 a rocky buttress provides access. 107 00:06:38.290 --> 00:06:42.380 The shortest route, 17 miles round trip 108 00:06:42.380 --> 00:06:45.523 with an elevation gain of 4,800 feet. 109 00:06:47.110 --> 00:06:49.070 - At the bare minimum, you're gonna be on your feet 110 00:06:49.070 --> 00:06:50.420 for seven to eight hours, 111 00:06:50.420 --> 00:06:53.402 and then whatever time you spend on top of the Dome as well. 112 00:06:53.402 --> 00:06:54.950 But the rewards are huge. 113 00:06:54.950 --> 00:06:57.850 I mean, it's the outdoor equivalent of running a marathon. 114 00:06:59.860 --> 00:07:01.423 - [Narrator] A steep set of switchbacks 115 00:07:01.423 --> 00:07:04.193 acts like a grand StairMaster. 116 00:07:09.330 --> 00:07:13.983 On the shoulder of Half Dome, the climb borders on vertical. 117 00:07:16.060 --> 00:07:18.463 Things get more and more intense. 118 00:07:21.722 --> 00:07:22.700 - [Hiker] All right, here we go. 119 00:07:22.700 --> 00:07:24.543 - [Narrator] Until a pair of steel cables 120 00:07:24.543 --> 00:07:26.423 becomes a lifeline. 121 00:07:29.320 --> 00:07:31.437 - He's like, "I made it this far, I gotta do it." 122 00:07:32.840 --> 00:07:33.840 It's a little hairy. 123 00:07:35.020 --> 00:07:35.940 Gives ya some feeling of having 124 00:07:35.940 --> 00:07:38.033 achieved something noteworthy. 125 00:07:38.033 --> 00:07:39.343 - [Hiker] We're almost there! 126 00:07:39.343 --> 00:07:43.000 - [Narrator] It's a scramble to the lofty crest. 127 00:07:43.000 --> 00:07:48.000 - Difficult, but exhilarating and challenging and great fun, 128 00:07:48.640 --> 00:07:50.260 once you get to the top. 129 00:07:50.260 --> 00:07:51.333 - I'd add terrifying. 130 00:07:54.300 --> 00:07:55.950 - [Narrator] Those who make it to the summit 131 00:07:55.950 --> 00:07:59.260 say it's like the top of the world. 132 00:07:59.260 --> 00:08:00.318 - It's fantastic, isn't it? 133 00:08:00.318 --> 00:08:01.927 - It really is, it's just, 134 00:08:01.927 --> 00:08:04.641 it's sort of almost unreal, actually. 135 00:08:04.641 --> 00:08:07.391 (dramatic music) 136 00:08:14.940 --> 00:08:17.563 - [Narrator] There's no place like Yosemite. 137 00:08:19.610 --> 00:08:22.270 This legendary landscape is home 138 00:08:22.270 --> 00:08:25.233 to over 300 species of wildlife. 139 00:08:29.170 --> 00:08:33.485 The Western rattler, the park's only poisonous snake, 140 00:08:33.485 --> 00:08:38.023 ranges in color from yellowish to a smoky shade of black. 141 00:08:41.440 --> 00:08:44.678 Visitors rarely see or hear a mountain lion. 142 00:08:44.678 --> 00:08:46.370 (mountain lion growls) 143 00:08:46.370 --> 00:08:48.500 This biggest cat in North America 144 00:08:48.500 --> 00:08:52.313 is out and about, feasting on mule deer. 145 00:08:53.400 --> 00:08:55.430 Though encounters are unlikely, 146 00:08:55.430 --> 00:08:58.793 the park recommends not to hike alone. 147 00:09:03.853 --> 00:09:07.520 Yosemite's most popular mammal is its largest. 148 00:09:07.520 --> 00:09:11.170 Called black bears, most are shades of brown. 149 00:09:11.170 --> 00:09:14.090 Here, they don't always hibernate. 150 00:09:14.090 --> 00:09:15.470 - It depends on the elevation. 151 00:09:15.470 --> 00:09:20.470 At lower elevations, 2,000 feet, a bear may not hibernate, 152 00:09:20.670 --> 00:09:23.430 whereas at higher elevations it definitely will, 153 00:09:23.430 --> 00:09:25.490 but it all comes down to 154 00:09:26.340 --> 00:09:28.973 whether it has a food source available to it. 155 00:09:29.950 --> 00:09:33.440 - [Narrator] Yosemite Valley, the prime tourist destination, 156 00:09:33.440 --> 00:09:35.803 is also prime bear habitat. 157 00:09:36.680 --> 00:09:39.510 With a nose for food, and the steady flow 158 00:09:39.510 --> 00:09:43.210 of humans carrying it, bears get into trouble. 159 00:09:43.210 --> 00:09:46.783 By 1998, things were out of control. 160 00:09:48.670 --> 00:09:53.670 1,400 car break-ins, and $650,000 of property damage 161 00:09:54.730 --> 00:09:56.663 caught the attention of Congress. 162 00:09:57.580 --> 00:10:01.745 Increased funding allowed the park to focus on the problem. 163 00:10:01.745 --> 00:10:04.412 (intense music) 164 00:10:08.060 --> 00:10:09.380 - Probably another bear break-in. 165 00:10:09.380 --> 00:10:11.460 - [Narrator] At five o'clock in the morning, 166 00:10:11.460 --> 00:10:14.480 the bear management team is in the thick of it. 167 00:10:14.480 --> 00:10:17.230 - [Man] No bear on scene, and damage to three vehicles. 168 00:10:19.360 --> 00:10:21.784 - We have more than one bear that breaks into cars, 169 00:10:21.784 --> 00:10:25.463 but we have one bear who's really the main culprit. 170 00:10:28.080 --> 00:10:29.730 Oh my goodness, look at this car. 171 00:10:33.800 --> 00:10:36.030 - They just pulled in here. - Yeah? 172 00:10:36.030 --> 00:10:39.140 - Probably within the last hour and a half. 173 00:10:39.140 --> 00:10:40.910 The bears jumped up on the hood, 174 00:10:40.910 --> 00:10:42.130 walked over the top of it, 175 00:10:42.130 --> 00:10:45.370 then came down and pulled the window out. 176 00:10:45.370 --> 00:10:47.267 Good, good, good prints. 177 00:10:47.267 --> 00:10:49.560 - That's not a small bear either, is it? Look at that. 178 00:10:49.560 --> 00:10:52.020 - [Narrator] Bears will break in if they see anything 179 00:10:52.020 --> 00:10:53.983 even associated with food. 180 00:10:55.980 --> 00:10:57.723 - There's a whole cooler back there. 181 00:10:59.030 --> 00:11:01.910 - [Narrator] If they continue to frequent developed areas, 182 00:11:01.910 --> 00:11:04.283 they're monitored by collars and tags. 183 00:11:05.660 --> 00:11:07.180 - So I'm just running through the frequencies 184 00:11:07.180 --> 00:11:08.910 of bears that this could be. 185 00:11:08.910 --> 00:11:11.440 If it's a radio collar bear, 186 00:11:11.440 --> 00:11:12.860 we have a list of frequencies. 187 00:11:12.860 --> 00:11:14.460 I'm trying to see who's closest. 188 00:11:16.200 --> 00:11:18.692 - [Narrator] One bear has been spending a lot of time 189 00:11:18.692 --> 00:11:22.120 in the more populated parts of the valley. 190 00:11:22.120 --> 00:11:23.490 - [Sherri] And that makes us feel uncomfortable, 191 00:11:23.490 --> 00:11:25.480 because she may get too close to people then. 192 00:11:25.480 --> 00:11:27.430 We're gonna try to get a collar on her. 193 00:11:28.960 --> 00:11:31.438 - [Narrator] A bear trap is made more comfortable, 194 00:11:31.438 --> 00:11:34.323 then baited with a bag of food at the back. 195 00:11:35.300 --> 00:11:37.795 - So it goes in, and it grabs the bag of food, 196 00:11:37.795 --> 00:11:39.139 which pulls it down, 197 00:11:39.139 --> 00:11:41.150 and when it's pulled down, 198 00:11:43.938 --> 00:11:45.518 it just closes behind it. 199 00:11:45.518 --> 00:11:47.210 And we do have one bear who has figured this out, 200 00:11:47.210 --> 00:11:50.450 and he grabs the bag, and sticks his foot out, 201 00:11:50.450 --> 00:11:52.200 and catches the door. 202 00:11:52.200 --> 00:11:53.740 So we have one bigger trap 203 00:11:53.740 --> 00:11:54.900 that we always have to catch him in, 204 00:11:54.900 --> 00:11:57.863 because he has figured this whole system out. 205 00:11:59.010 --> 00:12:01.420 - [Man] Get outta here bear, get outta here! 206 00:12:01.420 --> 00:12:04.250 - One of the tools that we use to make the situation 207 00:12:04.250 --> 00:12:07.800 more negative for the bear, the conditioning more negative, 208 00:12:07.800 --> 00:12:09.213 is we use paintball guns. 209 00:12:09.213 --> 00:12:12.510 We had some clear paintballs specially designed for us, 210 00:12:12.510 --> 00:12:17.033 and they're just full of kind of a greasy oil in there. 211 00:12:18.734 --> 00:12:19.827 Get outta here bear, come on, move, 212 00:12:19.827 --> 00:12:21.130 get outta here, come on, move! 213 00:12:21.130 --> 00:12:23.130 You always wanna yell at the same time, 214 00:12:23.130 --> 00:12:25.540 so that they know a human is doing it. 215 00:12:25.540 --> 00:12:27.290 To reinforce that humans are scary. 216 00:12:31.590 --> 00:12:34.880 - [Narrator] Bears are so intelligent, wildlife experts say 217 00:12:34.880 --> 00:12:37.590 they only stay one step ahead of them. 218 00:12:37.590 --> 00:12:41.769 - We'd develop a bear-proof food locker, or a dumpster. 219 00:12:41.769 --> 00:12:43.490 Eventually, they figure it out 220 00:12:43.490 --> 00:12:45.923 and we have to come up with another design. 221 00:12:46.960 --> 00:12:48.580 - [Narrator] In the back country, 222 00:12:48.580 --> 00:12:50.903 bear resistant canisters are a must. 223 00:12:55.670 --> 00:12:58.940 Hanging food from trees no longer works. 224 00:12:58.940 --> 00:13:01.293 The bears caught on to the trick. 225 00:13:02.408 --> 00:13:03.603 - [Ranger] Hello, folks. 226 00:13:04.488 --> 00:13:05.321 - Hi. - Hello. 227 00:13:05.321 --> 00:13:06.240 - We're just out doing our bear rounds, 228 00:13:06.240 --> 00:13:08.050 making sure that all those little brownie bites 229 00:13:08.050 --> 00:13:10.520 and Oreo cookies get put away when you're done. 230 00:13:10.520 --> 00:13:11.353 - Yes. - Okay. 231 00:13:11.353 --> 00:13:13.880 - Oh you are too far from an open car. 232 00:13:13.880 --> 00:13:14.820 Because if it's open 233 00:13:14.820 --> 00:13:17.500 and you're not there, you're too far away. 234 00:13:17.500 --> 00:13:20.180 - [Narrator] To date, the park's tough love policy 235 00:13:20.180 --> 00:13:21.550 has paid off. 236 00:13:21.550 --> 00:13:25.013 Conflicts have been reduced by 80%. 237 00:13:28.410 --> 00:13:32.403 Beyond bears, Yosemite has a rich human history. 238 00:13:33.570 --> 00:13:36.560 Native Americans called the valley Ahwahnee, 239 00:13:36.560 --> 00:13:38.463 meaning place of gaping. 240 00:13:43.150 --> 00:13:44.860 Tucked away in the corner, 241 00:13:44.860 --> 00:13:47.695 amid tall trees and granite walls, 242 00:13:47.695 --> 00:13:50.380 the namesake Ahwahnee Hotel 243 00:13:50.380 --> 00:13:54.433 is the queen of national park lodges. 244 00:13:55.810 --> 00:13:59.863 Built on several levels, it's protected and private. 245 00:14:01.310 --> 00:14:03.510 - The granite ledges and walls of the valley 246 00:14:03.510 --> 00:14:05.863 actually seem to just keep extending out 247 00:14:05.863 --> 00:14:07.550 into the grounds of the Ahwahnee, 248 00:14:07.550 --> 00:14:09.400 and incorporate the building. 249 00:14:09.400 --> 00:14:13.350 It's brilliant, it's artistic, and it's natural, 250 00:14:13.350 --> 00:14:15.550 and it feels right to be here in the valley. 251 00:14:16.530 --> 00:14:18.330 - [Narrator] Celebrated park architect 252 00:14:18.330 --> 00:14:21.798 Gilbert Stanley Underwood left nothing to chance. 253 00:14:21.798 --> 00:14:25.753 Every detail blends into the beauty of the landscape. 254 00:14:26.930 --> 00:14:31.653 The four diamond hotel first opened its doors in 1927. 255 00:14:37.110 --> 00:14:39.663 The centerpiece is the Great Lounge. 256 00:14:40.900 --> 00:14:43.353 With a 24 foot beam ceiling. 257 00:14:46.100 --> 00:14:48.716 German Gothic wrought iron chandeliers 258 00:14:48.716 --> 00:14:52.693 cast a warm glow over an enormous space. 259 00:14:53.830 --> 00:14:56.530 Flanked by two stone fireplaces, 260 00:14:56.530 --> 00:14:58.763 there's a lot of detail to absorb. 261 00:14:59.600 --> 00:15:04.600 Despite the massive scale, it's warm and inviting, 262 00:15:04.614 --> 00:15:08.143 like being a guest in a country manor. 263 00:15:12.270 --> 00:15:16.100 Views of Yosemite Falls, Half Dome, 264 00:15:16.100 --> 00:15:19.133 and Glacier Point bring the outside in. 265 00:15:21.280 --> 00:15:23.800 The JKF Suite is named for the president 266 00:15:23.800 --> 00:15:26.153 who stayed here in 1962. 267 00:15:29.080 --> 00:15:31.673 It has a deck with a private view. 268 00:15:36.590 --> 00:15:40.910 Fine dining in the 34 foot trestle beam dining room 269 00:15:40.910 --> 00:15:43.933 is a quintessential Yosemite experience. 270 00:15:45.596 --> 00:15:46.429 (glasses clink) 271 00:15:46.429 --> 00:15:48.310 - Coming to a place that's going to 272 00:15:48.310 --> 00:15:50.450 cater to the special needs of guests, 273 00:15:50.450 --> 00:15:53.137 and to make your visit very memorable. 274 00:15:53.137 --> 00:15:55.570 (people clapping) 275 00:15:55.570 --> 00:15:58.330 - [Narrator] For many, there's a special connection 276 00:15:58.330 --> 00:16:00.833 to the Ahwahnee, and to Yosemite. 277 00:16:03.260 --> 00:16:05.930 While you're enjoying the great outdoors, 278 00:16:05.930 --> 00:16:09.413 take a moment to remember those who came before. 279 00:16:11.810 --> 00:16:14.342 The individual eternally linked with Yosemite 280 00:16:14.342 --> 00:16:17.967 is naturalist John Muir, who wrote, 281 00:16:17.967 --> 00:16:22.257 "No temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite." 282 00:16:23.860 --> 00:16:26.920 During industrial times, he excited people 283 00:16:26.920 --> 00:16:29.243 that a place like this even existed. 284 00:16:30.570 --> 00:16:32.250 - The United States is a new country. 285 00:16:32.250 --> 00:16:37.007 It didn't have the kind of history that Europeans had. 286 00:16:37.007 --> 00:16:40.700 Had American history, but not an ancient recorded history, 287 00:16:40.700 --> 00:16:42.520 or a history that had large buildings, 288 00:16:42.520 --> 00:16:44.270 cathedrals, et cetera. 289 00:16:44.270 --> 00:16:46.740 And what became the temples 290 00:16:46.740 --> 00:16:49.749 for the United States were these wild areas. 291 00:16:49.749 --> 00:16:51.730 (gentle music) 292 00:16:51.730 --> 00:16:54.620 - [Narrator] In 1890, Yosemite was set aside 293 00:16:54.620 --> 00:16:56.943 as America's third national park. 294 00:16:59.840 --> 00:17:03.770 Two years later, Muir co-founded the famed Sierra Club, 295 00:17:03.770 --> 00:17:05.613 dedicated to conservation. 296 00:17:07.290 --> 00:17:11.233 He described the Sierra as the Range of Light. 297 00:17:12.800 --> 00:17:15.070 Another visionary, America's premier 298 00:17:15.070 --> 00:17:17.720 landscape photographer Ansel Adams, 299 00:17:17.720 --> 00:17:20.293 opened the public's eye in a different way. 300 00:17:23.360 --> 00:17:25.960 - Ansel came to Yosemite for the first time in 1914, 301 00:17:26.860 --> 00:17:27.920 and fell in love with it, 302 00:17:27.920 --> 00:17:30.110 and came back every year of his life. 303 00:17:30.110 --> 00:17:31.669 - [Narrator] Hiking the back country, 304 00:17:31.669 --> 00:17:35.583 he became familiar with the ever changing patterns of light. 305 00:17:37.910 --> 00:17:39.860 - He definitely caught the moment. 306 00:17:39.860 --> 00:17:43.500 The moment, the one second where the light had changed. 307 00:17:43.500 --> 00:17:46.090 The one moment where the clouds were covering the valley, 308 00:17:46.090 --> 00:17:49.323 that's what Ansel did that no one else could do. 309 00:17:50.240 --> 00:17:52.149 - [Narrator] Every day around the park, 310 00:17:52.149 --> 00:17:56.903 amateurs and professionals are out to get the perfect shot. 311 00:17:58.680 --> 00:18:00.240 - [Guide] What I'm gonna do right now is I'm gonna show you 312 00:18:00.240 --> 00:18:02.620 a photograph that Ansel took in this meadow. 313 00:18:02.620 --> 00:18:06.000 - [Narrator] The Ansel Adams Gallery, a park institution, 314 00:18:06.000 --> 00:18:09.685 leads photo walks that follow in Ansel's footsteps. 315 00:18:09.685 --> 00:18:11.500 - We're gonna talk about how to create 316 00:18:11.500 --> 00:18:13.713 light and motion and depth of field. 317 00:18:15.110 --> 00:18:17.263 - [Narrator] Ansel Adams loved Yosemite. 318 00:18:18.250 --> 00:18:20.000 Yet there was one special spot 319 00:18:21.150 --> 00:18:24.203 amid the rarefied air of the high country. 320 00:18:25.400 --> 00:18:27.520 - He took Sierra Club trips in there when he was 321 00:18:27.520 --> 00:18:29.964 sort of leading some of the trips for them, 322 00:18:29.964 --> 00:18:33.888 and they jokingly said, "Ansel, you love this place so much, 323 00:18:33.888 --> 00:18:38.150 "we should call that mountain up there Mount Ansel Adams." 324 00:18:38.150 --> 00:18:42.040 In fact, that became Mount Ansel Adams after he died. 325 00:18:42.040 --> 00:18:46.143 Then we put his ashes there in 1986 on his mountain. 326 00:18:47.225 --> 00:18:50.760 (birds chirping) 327 00:18:50.760 --> 00:18:54.260 - [Narrator] Although Ansel Adams never met John Muir, 328 00:18:54.260 --> 00:18:57.550 both men left a legacy of conservation 329 00:18:57.550 --> 00:19:00.773 that continues to be an inspiration. 330 00:19:03.424 --> 00:19:06.890 (dramatic music) 331 00:19:06.890 --> 00:19:10.906 Yosemite is the centerpiece of the Sierra Nevada, 332 00:19:10.906 --> 00:19:13.940 the longest continuous mountain range 333 00:19:13.940 --> 00:19:16.730 in the continental United States. 334 00:19:16.730 --> 00:19:21.300 Much of the park lies above 7,500 feet. 335 00:19:21.300 --> 00:19:24.923 Called high country, it has a rugged splendor. 336 00:19:27.220 --> 00:19:29.610 From Olmsted Point, the back half 337 00:19:29.610 --> 00:19:32.193 of Half Dome looms in the distance. 338 00:19:33.320 --> 00:19:37.580 Giant boulders left behind by receding glaciers 339 00:19:37.580 --> 00:19:40.423 look like the work of extraterrestrials. 340 00:19:44.520 --> 00:19:47.060 Amid hundreds of glacial carved lakes, 341 00:19:47.060 --> 00:19:49.373 Tenaya is the largest. 342 00:19:52.100 --> 00:19:54.563 A lone kayaker cruises by. 343 00:19:56.360 --> 00:19:59.940 Framed by granite walls and sandy beaches, 344 00:19:59.940 --> 00:20:02.433 the water is icy cold. 345 00:20:06.300 --> 00:20:08.530 The Tuolumne River meanders through 346 00:20:08.530 --> 00:20:12.570 the largest subalpine meadow in the High Sierra. 347 00:20:12.570 --> 00:20:14.840 - We're at the gateway to the High Sierras. 348 00:20:14.840 --> 00:20:17.990 We are at 8,600 feet above sea level, 349 00:20:17.990 --> 00:20:19.500 and there's trails that go up 350 00:20:19.500 --> 00:20:22.693 to elevations over 10, 12,000 feet. 351 00:20:24.320 --> 00:20:25.830 - [Narrator] Surrounded by high peaks, 352 00:20:25.830 --> 00:20:29.657 it's lush, cool, inviting. 353 00:20:32.048 --> 00:20:33.533 A meeting place for all. 354 00:20:36.310 --> 00:20:39.950 - And then there is the crest, which the Tioga Pass road 355 00:20:39.950 --> 00:20:42.363 reaches almost 10,000 feet above sea level, 356 00:20:43.290 --> 00:20:46.523 and from there you can hike up to high elevation peaks 357 00:20:46.523 --> 00:20:49.551 that have this magnificent scenery. 358 00:20:49.551 --> 00:20:52.290 (gentle guitar music) 359 00:20:52.290 --> 00:20:54.870 - [Narrator] Tioga Pass is the highest point 360 00:20:54.870 --> 00:20:58.710 in the Sierra Nevada that can be crossed by road. 361 00:20:58.710 --> 00:21:03.440 The Tioga Pass Resort has been a stopoff since 1916. 362 00:21:03.440 --> 00:21:05.350 - I'll have rocky road, thanks. 363 00:21:06.960 --> 00:21:08.200 Thank you. 364 00:21:08.200 --> 00:21:09.730 - [Narrator] On the park's border, 365 00:21:09.730 --> 00:21:12.563 this local hangout is an institution. 366 00:21:14.020 --> 00:21:17.640 With rustic guest cabins, and a general store, 367 00:21:17.640 --> 00:21:20.290 things here never seem to change, 368 00:21:20.290 --> 00:21:22.390 and that's a good thing. 369 00:21:22.390 --> 00:21:25.650 At the old fashioned diner, the food's good, 370 00:21:25.650 --> 00:21:27.429 and the coffee's hot. 371 00:21:27.429 --> 00:21:28.660 - [Server] All right, homemade pie. 372 00:21:28.660 --> 00:21:31.800 We have blueberry, apple, and apricot. 373 00:21:35.150 --> 00:21:38.020 - [Narrator] It's not the only touch of civilization. 374 00:21:38.020 --> 00:21:41.480 For those willing to go the extra mile, or miles, 375 00:21:41.480 --> 00:21:43.620 the High Sierra camp system, 376 00:21:43.620 --> 00:21:46.960 continuously operating since 1923, 377 00:21:46.960 --> 00:21:50.370 is unique in America's national parks. 378 00:21:50.370 --> 00:21:53.960 - So we have a series of camps, including Tuolumne Meadows, 379 00:21:53.960 --> 00:21:55.410 that would be six. 380 00:21:55.410 --> 00:21:58.070 And you can actually hike to each one of the camps. 381 00:21:58.070 --> 00:22:00.467 They're only five to 10 miles apart from each other, 382 00:22:00.467 --> 00:22:03.160 so very easily accessible on foot, 383 00:22:03.160 --> 00:22:04.913 or by a saddle pack trail. 384 00:22:09.090 --> 00:22:11.810 - [Narrator] A seasonal treat, the camps are only open 385 00:22:11.810 --> 00:22:15.603 from mid-June to mid-September, weather permitting. 386 00:22:16.580 --> 00:22:19.590 Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, the logical spot 387 00:22:19.590 --> 00:22:21.830 to begin a loop trip, has the only 388 00:22:21.830 --> 00:22:24.103 tent cabins reachable by road. 389 00:22:25.080 --> 00:22:27.530 - One of the questions I get asked most often 390 00:22:27.530 --> 00:22:29.310 is what the heck is a tent cabin? 391 00:22:29.310 --> 00:22:32.360 Well, it's basically a raised wooden floor off the ground, 392 00:22:32.360 --> 00:22:33.680 just a couple of feet, 393 00:22:33.680 --> 00:22:35.360 and then you have canvas siding 394 00:22:35.360 --> 00:22:37.486 and a canvas tent on the top. 395 00:22:37.486 --> 00:22:41.340 And you'd be surprised how well it can keep the weather out, 396 00:22:41.340 --> 00:22:43.060 and the warmth in. 397 00:22:43.060 --> 00:22:45.423 Even in really chilly conditions. 398 00:22:46.330 --> 00:22:48.084 - [Narrator] A stay at the high country cabins 399 00:22:48.084 --> 00:22:52.273 is so coveted, reservations are made by lottery. 400 00:22:54.564 --> 00:22:56.530 (gentle guitar music) 401 00:22:56.530 --> 00:22:59.723 Camp May Lake faces Mount Hoffman. 402 00:23:00.960 --> 00:23:03.460 - The thing that's really unique about the high camps 403 00:23:03.460 --> 00:23:05.687 is that each one has its own topography, 404 00:23:05.687 --> 00:23:08.090 own location, very different setting 405 00:23:08.090 --> 00:23:10.387 because of the different elevations. 406 00:23:10.387 --> 00:23:12.460 - [Narrator] In this neck of the woods, 407 00:23:12.460 --> 00:23:14.460 people tend to slow down, and chill out. 408 00:23:15.726 --> 00:23:17.129 (people chattering) 409 00:23:17.129 --> 00:23:19.712 (bell dinging) 410 00:23:20.686 --> 00:23:23.353 (bugle blaring) 411 00:23:26.089 --> 00:23:28.339 - Good evening, May Lakers! 412 00:23:29.747 --> 00:23:32.497 Come on in for a fabulous dinner! 413 00:23:33.910 --> 00:23:37.163 - [Narrator] Home cooked meals fuel a hiker's appetite. 414 00:23:40.560 --> 00:23:43.000 Among the high country camps, 415 00:23:43.000 --> 00:23:46.210 Vogelsang is at the highest altitude. 416 00:23:46.210 --> 00:23:51.006 With 1,400 feet of elevation gain, the air thins. 417 00:23:51.006 --> 00:23:53.923 (thunder rumbling) 418 00:24:00.680 --> 00:24:05.680 Nestled on a mountainside, Vogelsang is a welcoming sight. 419 00:24:06.489 --> 00:24:09.322 (water trickling) 420 00:24:10.400 --> 00:24:13.350 - It's the highest, and it's granite. 421 00:24:13.350 --> 00:24:14.850 You know, it's just granite everywhere, 422 00:24:14.850 --> 00:24:16.300 and you can see where you're gonna hike, 423 00:24:16.300 --> 00:24:19.093 and there's a multitude of peaks to climb. 424 00:24:20.684 --> 00:24:23.434 (dramatic music) 425 00:24:26.600 --> 00:24:29.827 - [Narrator] Above the tree line, Vogelsang Pass 426 00:24:29.827 --> 00:24:33.703 looks over the vast expanse of the high country. 427 00:24:40.404 --> 00:24:42.019 As day turns to night, 428 00:24:42.019 --> 00:24:44.923 the mountains light up with alpenglow. 429 00:24:48.760 --> 00:24:50.250 Guests begin to grasp 430 00:24:50.250 --> 00:24:53.579 what the Yosemite wilderness is all about. 431 00:24:53.579 --> 00:24:56.329 (dramatic music) 432 00:25:04.020 --> 00:25:07.230 Behind the formation of Yosemite Valley's 433 00:25:07.230 --> 00:25:10.690 massive domes and cliffs, eight different 434 00:25:10.690 --> 00:25:13.373 types of granite shape the scenery. 435 00:25:15.700 --> 00:25:18.470 Flanking the valley, El Capitan, 436 00:25:18.470 --> 00:25:22.883 Spanish for The Captain, rises over 3,000 feet. 437 00:25:24.962 --> 00:25:26.063 - It's quite a big rock. 438 00:25:27.050 --> 00:25:28.710 When you first drive into the valley, you know, 439 00:25:28.710 --> 00:25:30.820 it doesn't fit into your windshield. 440 00:25:30.820 --> 00:25:32.883 So, you know that's a big rock. 441 00:25:35.800 --> 00:25:37.300 - [Narrator] While most people are content 442 00:25:37.300 --> 00:25:41.863 to gaze up in awe, others go for immediate contact. 443 00:25:43.790 --> 00:25:46.910 Clean surfaces, high quality rock, 444 00:25:46.910 --> 00:25:49.900 and a gravity defying level of difficulty 445 00:25:49.900 --> 00:25:54.343 make Yosemite one of the world's top climbing destinations. 446 00:25:56.870 --> 00:26:00.483 From El Cap Meadow, people catch the El Cap show. 447 00:26:01.810 --> 00:26:04.473 It's man and woman versus a monolith. 448 00:26:06.860 --> 00:26:08.850 When the route up the nose of El Cap 449 00:26:08.850 --> 00:26:11.680 was first climbed in 1958, 450 00:26:11.680 --> 00:26:14.623 it opened up mega possibilities for the sport. 451 00:26:17.230 --> 00:26:19.590 - Goes up those cracks that diagonal up and right, 452 00:26:19.590 --> 00:26:21.550 into that crescent shaped crack, 453 00:26:21.550 --> 00:26:23.360 and then you can see people there, 454 00:26:23.360 --> 00:26:25.780 and then you do a little pendulum swing 455 00:26:25.780 --> 00:26:28.860 into those cracks that go straight on up. 456 00:26:28.860 --> 00:26:30.740 Those are the stove leg cracks, 457 00:26:30.740 --> 00:26:35.620 and you end up in those upper dihedrals up there. 458 00:26:35.620 --> 00:26:38.010 - [Narrator] To date, over 90 different routes 459 00:26:38.010 --> 00:26:42.910 vary in length, but the average ascent takes four days. 460 00:26:44.380 --> 00:26:47.110 Only the best opt to free climb it, 461 00:26:47.110 --> 00:26:51.173 where partners use ropes and gear strictly for protection. 462 00:26:55.580 --> 00:26:57.317 - Free climbing El Cap is definitely 463 00:26:57.317 --> 00:27:00.303 just as much a mental game as a physical game. 464 00:27:01.450 --> 00:27:05.300 Because there's so much that goes along with it, 465 00:27:05.300 --> 00:27:08.100 and you have to deal with being scared, being tired, 466 00:27:08.100 --> 00:27:10.900 and just all the logistics 467 00:27:10.900 --> 00:27:14.603 of staying on a wall 3,000 feet in the air. 468 00:27:16.640 --> 00:27:20.140 - [Narrator] In the vertical world, you're on your own. 469 00:27:20.140 --> 00:27:22.973 There's no competency test, or park permit. 470 00:27:24.600 --> 00:27:27.115 - Climbing is pretty self-limiting. 471 00:27:27.115 --> 00:27:30.163 You make a mistake up there, and you die. 472 00:27:31.600 --> 00:27:33.270 I would say a good percentage of the parties 473 00:27:33.270 --> 00:27:36.950 don't make it on their first few tries up El Cap. 474 00:27:36.950 --> 00:27:38.980 It's a big deal. 475 00:27:38.980 --> 00:27:42.070 - [Narrator] The goal is to be successful on the descent, 476 00:27:42.070 --> 00:27:44.390 and train for the next time. 477 00:27:44.390 --> 00:27:47.015 - So what we need now is everyone needs a helmet. 478 00:27:47.015 --> 00:27:48.016 What we're gonna do first 479 00:27:48.016 --> 00:27:49.915 is we're gonna actually do a little bouldering. 480 00:27:49.915 --> 00:27:50.790 One size should fit everyone. 481 00:27:50.790 --> 00:27:54.690 - [Narrator] Since 1969, the Yosemite Mountaineering School 482 00:27:54.690 --> 00:27:58.013 and Guide Service has been teaching all levels of rock jocks 483 00:27:58.013 --> 00:28:00.960 the art of self protection. 484 00:28:00.960 --> 00:28:03.060 - Toes up, heels down, straighten your legs. 485 00:28:03.060 --> 00:28:05.410 - [Narrator] It's no surprise they're considered 486 00:28:05.410 --> 00:28:08.920 some of the most skilled big wall athletes in the world. 487 00:28:08.920 --> 00:28:10.320 - So push and pull motion here. 488 00:28:10.320 --> 00:28:11.210 Look at my left hand. 489 00:28:11.210 --> 00:28:12.220 It's never leaving the rope. 490 00:28:12.220 --> 00:28:14.633 - [Narrator] Classes cover basics and more. 491 00:28:15.590 --> 00:28:16.470 - [Guide] You're gonna be moving 492 00:28:16.470 --> 00:28:18.566 over to the right, both hands. 493 00:28:18.566 --> 00:28:21.793 - [Narrator] It's a lot harder than it looks. 494 00:28:22.980 --> 00:28:26.760 - If you let go, certainly she's gonna fall, okay? 495 00:28:26.760 --> 00:28:28.533 So the idea is you're tied in. 496 00:28:30.124 --> 00:28:31.633 - [Guide] Way to go Meg, good job. 497 00:28:34.450 --> 00:28:37.900 - [Narrator] In the 1930s, rope climbing took hold here 498 00:28:37.900 --> 00:28:40.630 with techniques brought over from Europe. 499 00:28:40.630 --> 00:28:43.480 By the 1940s, routes up the bigger walls 500 00:28:43.480 --> 00:28:46.230 were made possible by a Yosemite invention, 501 00:28:46.230 --> 00:28:50.290 hammering steel pitons into the rock. 502 00:28:50.290 --> 00:28:53.733 Using gear, climbers engineered their way up. 503 00:28:55.690 --> 00:29:00.440 The 1960s and '70s were the golden age of climbing, 504 00:29:00.440 --> 00:29:03.730 and Yosemite was the epicenter. 505 00:29:03.730 --> 00:29:07.813 The sport evolved, as athletes sought out ways to excel. 506 00:29:11.960 --> 00:29:13.780 Many who chartered virgin routes 507 00:29:13.780 --> 00:29:15.890 began their day at Camp Four, 508 00:29:15.890 --> 00:29:19.628 now listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. 509 00:29:19.628 --> 00:29:22.378 (dramatic music) 510 00:29:26.900 --> 00:29:28.850 - As a young guy coming in this place 511 00:29:28.850 --> 00:29:31.680 it had a sense of a carnival going on, 512 00:29:31.680 --> 00:29:36.480 and an athletic event, a revolution of some kind. 513 00:29:36.480 --> 00:29:39.450 Every moment, breathing, walking, climbing moment here 514 00:29:39.450 --> 00:29:41.000 had a sense of adventure to it. 515 00:29:44.080 --> 00:29:46.183 - [Narrator] More than a place to pitch a tent, 516 00:29:46.183 --> 00:29:49.913 Camp Four was a forum for an emerging sport. 517 00:29:52.870 --> 00:29:55.244 Although times have changed, the spirit 518 00:29:55.244 --> 00:29:59.884 and camaraderie of the pioneering days remains. 519 00:29:59.884 --> 00:30:02.220 - So if you guys climb Beggar's Buttress in the morning, 520 00:30:02.220 --> 00:30:04.120 we climb Moratorium in the morning, 521 00:30:04.120 --> 00:30:06.373 we can get like a six man team on Half Dome. 522 00:30:07.760 --> 00:30:09.630 - It's interesting to see to this day 523 00:30:09.630 --> 00:30:11.250 how many people are all around climbing 524 00:30:11.250 --> 00:30:12.321 that they still have the passion 525 00:30:12.321 --> 00:30:15.573 to make that trip from faraway places to fulfill a dream. 526 00:30:16.990 --> 00:30:19.073 So that legacy is still going on. 527 00:30:21.790 --> 00:30:24.800 - I think one of the really unique things about Camp Four 528 00:30:24.800 --> 00:30:28.520 is that it does not matter what language you speak, 529 00:30:28.520 --> 00:30:31.823 and that we all have climbing as our common language. 530 00:30:34.860 --> 00:30:38.208 - [Narrator] In the 1970s, the invention of the modern cam 531 00:30:38.208 --> 00:30:40.293 opened up a whole new realm. 532 00:30:42.190 --> 00:30:45.363 Clean climbing is done without damaging the rock. 533 00:30:48.330 --> 00:30:50.420 Record setter Beth Rodden shows us 534 00:30:50.420 --> 00:30:53.253 what separates the good from the best. 535 00:30:54.566 --> 00:30:58.950 Yosemite's system rates difficulty on a 5.0 to 5.14 scale. 536 00:31:01.260 --> 00:31:06.013 At 5.13, the Phoenix is one tough climb. 537 00:31:07.190 --> 00:31:09.630 - The Phoenix has a lot of finger locks, 538 00:31:09.630 --> 00:31:12.260 which means you stick your fingers in the crack 539 00:31:12.260 --> 00:31:13.926 and then you torque them downwards 540 00:31:13.926 --> 00:31:16.330 to try and cam them in there, 541 00:31:16.330 --> 00:31:18.040 so you can then move your body up, 542 00:31:18.040 --> 00:31:19.970 and it also has a lot of hand jams 543 00:31:19.970 --> 00:31:21.620 where you put your hand in, 544 00:31:21.620 --> 00:31:23.420 and then you pull yourself in there. 545 00:31:27.470 --> 00:31:31.110 - [Narrator] Crack climbing is fairly unique to Yosemite. 546 00:31:31.110 --> 00:31:33.870 Because it's so hard to maintain balance, 547 00:31:33.870 --> 00:31:36.533 many new techniques were developed here. 548 00:31:38.320 --> 00:31:41.100 - There is a whole repertoire of movements that you learn, 549 00:31:41.100 --> 00:31:43.806 and that you might call on depending on the situation, 550 00:31:43.806 --> 00:31:46.848 and sometimes it's just the way you might lean, 551 00:31:46.848 --> 00:31:49.430 lean with your shoulder or what we call a flag move, 552 00:31:49.430 --> 00:31:50.680 where you stick your foot out real far 553 00:31:50.680 --> 00:31:52.300 so you can extend further. 554 00:31:52.300 --> 00:31:55.510 So it has a dance-like gymnastic style movement, 555 00:31:55.510 --> 00:31:57.513 which is quite interesting when you're climbing 556 00:31:57.513 --> 00:31:58.830 and you look at a rock and think, 557 00:31:58.830 --> 00:32:00.570 how will I fit into that? 558 00:32:00.570 --> 00:32:02.900 So it's kind of a never-ending opportunity 559 00:32:02.900 --> 00:32:05.500 to learn about how to move yourself, how to breathe. 560 00:32:10.488 --> 00:32:12.180 (upbeat music) 561 00:32:12.180 --> 00:32:14.910 - [Narrator] For an aerial tour of Yosemite Valley, 562 00:32:14.910 --> 00:32:17.503 guaranteed to get your adrenal glands going, 563 00:32:19.850 --> 00:32:21.970 on weekends during the summer, 564 00:32:21.970 --> 00:32:24.990 a group of men and women and their flying machines 565 00:32:24.990 --> 00:32:26.553 gather along Glacier Point. 566 00:32:27.960 --> 00:32:29.620 - Clear! - Yah, yah! 567 00:32:31.573 --> 00:32:34.660 - [Narrator] 3,200 feet above the valley floor, 568 00:32:34.660 --> 00:32:38.720 a harness, a hang strap, and a 30 foot wingspan 569 00:32:38.720 --> 00:32:41.613 are all that separate a float, from a fall. 570 00:32:53.340 --> 00:32:55.980 - Pilot hooks in here, with his harness. 571 00:32:55.980 --> 00:32:57.965 Most pilots fly in a prone position, 572 00:32:57.965 --> 00:33:02.010 so they're in this attitude flying the glider. 573 00:33:02.010 --> 00:33:05.387 And to load up a right turn, 574 00:33:05.387 --> 00:33:08.210 you just move over to the right side of the control frame, 575 00:33:08.210 --> 00:33:10.840 and the glider starts to create the right turn. 576 00:33:10.840 --> 00:33:12.400 To make the glider go up, 577 00:33:12.400 --> 00:33:14.270 you simply push the bar away from you. 578 00:33:14.270 --> 00:33:17.346 It noses the glider up, and you start to climb. 579 00:33:17.346 --> 00:33:19.460 To bring the glider down, you just pull in 580 00:33:19.460 --> 00:33:21.563 and you start your descent. 581 00:33:23.750 --> 00:33:25.440 Putting them together in combinations 582 00:33:25.440 --> 00:33:27.360 that creates some aerobatic maneuvers, 583 00:33:27.360 --> 00:33:29.973 make the rollercoaster rides look like child's play. 584 00:33:33.260 --> 00:33:35.780 - [Narrator] Only certified pilots are permitted 585 00:33:35.780 --> 00:33:37.533 to take this flying leap. 586 00:33:39.150 --> 00:33:41.767 - When you plan on flying in Yosemite National Park, 587 00:33:41.767 --> 00:33:43.533 you're at your sharpest game. 588 00:33:44.586 --> 00:33:47.445 And you have everything pumping in your body, 589 00:33:47.445 --> 00:33:49.600 your heart's beating out of your chest 590 00:33:49.600 --> 00:33:52.450 no matter how many times you've done this before. 591 00:33:52.450 --> 00:33:54.690 - Please report hang gliding monitor. 592 00:33:54.690 --> 00:33:57.120 We have five hang glider pilots ready and raring to launch. 593 00:33:57.120 --> 00:33:58.928 Are we clear for launch? 594 00:33:58.928 --> 00:34:00.060 - [Woman] Yes fine, go ahead. 595 00:34:00.060 --> 00:34:01.720 - We have clearance, surf's up. 596 00:34:02.745 --> 00:34:04.629 All right guys, surf's up! 597 00:34:04.629 --> 00:34:07.212 (upbeat music) 598 00:34:14.346 --> 00:34:15.408 - [Pilot] You get up in the sky, 599 00:34:15.408 --> 00:34:19.203 it's just the kind of euphoria that's hard to describe. 600 00:34:22.240 --> 00:34:23.700 You know, we have granite cliffs, 601 00:34:23.700 --> 00:34:26.330 and the waterfalls that we get to soar over, 602 00:34:26.330 --> 00:34:28.928 and we're fortunate enough to see the valley 603 00:34:28.928 --> 00:34:31.403 in a way that nobody else gets to see it. 604 00:34:42.280 --> 00:34:44.927 - [Narrator] Granite cliffs and peaks aren't the only things 605 00:34:44.927 --> 00:34:47.690 supersized in these parts. 606 00:34:47.690 --> 00:34:49.670 These lands were first set aside 607 00:34:49.670 --> 00:34:52.570 to protect a botanical wonder. 608 00:34:52.570 --> 00:34:55.010 The Mariposa Grove has the park's 609 00:34:55.010 --> 00:34:58.470 biggest stand of giant sequoias. 610 00:34:58.470 --> 00:35:01.360 - The giant sequoias are the largest living things on earth, 611 00:35:01.360 --> 00:35:02.893 in terms of total volume. 612 00:35:04.520 --> 00:35:08.760 Some trees are taller, some trees are bigger in diameter. 613 00:35:08.760 --> 00:35:11.340 Some trees live to a longer age, 614 00:35:11.340 --> 00:35:14.553 but the giant sequoia in terms of volume is the largest. 615 00:35:15.580 --> 00:35:18.880 - [Narrator] Weighing over two million pounds on average, 616 00:35:18.880 --> 00:35:22.073 to grasp the size of a sequoia isn't so simple. 617 00:35:25.630 --> 00:35:28.380 Compare it to the Statue of Liberty, 618 00:35:28.380 --> 00:35:30.313 a human six feet tall, 619 00:35:31.420 --> 00:35:33.770 or the Fallen Monarch, a tree famous 620 00:35:33.770 --> 00:35:36.340 for a photograph of the US Cavalry 621 00:35:36.340 --> 00:35:38.003 positioned along its trunk. 622 00:35:41.840 --> 00:35:44.350 The California Tunnel Tree was tunneled 623 00:35:44.350 --> 00:35:47.563 in 1895 for stagecoach tours. 624 00:35:49.344 --> 00:35:50.224 - [Woman] And this is Grace, 625 00:35:50.224 --> 00:35:51.864 do you remember what the tree's name is? 626 00:35:51.864 --> 00:35:53.160 - [Grace] No. 627 00:35:53.160 --> 00:35:56.350 - [Woman] Remember it was the Grizzly Giant? 628 00:35:56.350 --> 00:35:58.161 - [Narrator] The grove's most celebrated tree 629 00:35:58.161 --> 00:36:00.253 is the Grizzly Giant. 630 00:36:01.690 --> 00:36:04.200 - The most recent studies suggest that the Grizzly Giant 631 00:36:04.200 --> 00:36:07.003 is probably close to 1,800 years old. 632 00:36:07.840 --> 00:36:09.960 Give or take a few years. 633 00:36:09.960 --> 00:36:13.310 It's got huge branches, very gnarled. 634 00:36:13.310 --> 00:36:18.220 It's lost its top, so it only rises to about 210 feet. 635 00:36:18.220 --> 00:36:21.360 It's about 96 feet in circumference, 636 00:36:21.360 --> 00:36:24.260 and about 30 feet in diameter. 637 00:36:24.260 --> 00:36:25.400 - I can't see the top. 638 00:36:25.400 --> 00:36:27.380 - It seems like a very big bird 639 00:36:27.380 --> 00:36:30.223 should live in such a big tree, doesn't it? 640 00:36:32.140 --> 00:36:34.879 - [Narrator] One of the fastest growing trees on earth, 641 00:36:34.879 --> 00:36:39.540 sequoias require upwards of 1,000 gallons of water a day, 642 00:36:39.540 --> 00:36:41.373 and plenty of sunshine. 643 00:36:45.240 --> 00:36:48.760 Known to live over 3,200 years, 644 00:36:48.760 --> 00:36:51.400 the secret to longevity is a sap 645 00:36:51.400 --> 00:36:53.563 resistant to fire and decay. 646 00:36:54.520 --> 00:36:56.810 - The telescope tree is phenomenal. 647 00:36:56.810 --> 00:36:59.270 That tree has been gutted by fire, 648 00:36:59.270 --> 00:37:01.020 literally struck by lightning at the top, 649 00:37:01.020 --> 00:37:02.860 eaten up by fire at the bottom. 650 00:37:02.860 --> 00:37:05.800 You can stand in the tree, and see the sky. 651 00:37:05.800 --> 00:37:10.360 The tree is alive, and it's producing cones, it's growing. 652 00:37:10.360 --> 00:37:12.943 (gentle music) 653 00:37:14.050 --> 00:37:16.600 - [Narrator] The Native American word Wawona 654 00:37:16.600 --> 00:37:19.230 was meant to imitate the hoot of an owl, 655 00:37:19.230 --> 00:37:21.963 the guardian spirit of the big trees. 656 00:37:23.876 --> 00:37:26.660 (woman hooting) 657 00:37:26.660 --> 00:37:29.704 In a study of the effects of fire on wildlife, 658 00:37:29.704 --> 00:37:34.200 US geological survey researcher Susan Roberts and her team 659 00:37:34.200 --> 00:37:35.870 tread deep into the woods 660 00:37:35.870 --> 00:37:39.300 in search of the California spotted owl. 661 00:37:39.300 --> 00:37:42.983 To find them, she's mastered their territorial calls. 662 00:37:44.570 --> 00:37:47.042 - And it goes a little bit like this. 663 00:37:47.042 --> 00:37:49.709 (Susan hooting) 664 00:37:51.330 --> 00:37:54.160 And that's more along the tone of a male. 665 00:37:54.160 --> 00:37:56.200 And that's the call that they use 666 00:37:56.200 --> 00:37:58.720 to say this is our territory. 667 00:37:58.720 --> 00:38:03.410 And they'll have contact calls between the two pairs, 668 00:38:03.410 --> 00:38:05.640 and one of them is what's going on behind me, 669 00:38:05.640 --> 00:38:07.876 what we call a contact whistle. 670 00:38:07.876 --> 00:38:10.230 (owl whistling) 671 00:38:10.230 --> 00:38:12.070 - [Narrator] This bird of prey has evolved 672 00:38:12.070 --> 00:38:14.710 into a killing machine, with night vision 673 00:38:14.710 --> 00:38:16.800 far superior to humans, 674 00:38:16.800 --> 00:38:19.650 and hearing much more acute. 675 00:38:19.650 --> 00:38:22.440 - They have what we call asymmetric ear placement, 676 00:38:22.440 --> 00:38:26.750 so they have maybe one ear here, and one ear a little lower, 677 00:38:26.750 --> 00:38:28.398 and the ability to turn their head, 678 00:38:28.398 --> 00:38:32.380 they can't turn it 360 degrees like a lot of people think, 679 00:38:32.380 --> 00:38:34.999 but they can turn it and look behind them. 680 00:38:34.999 --> 00:38:37.550 They can focus in on a sound, 681 00:38:37.550 --> 00:38:40.130 and almost don't even need to see to be able to pinpoint 682 00:38:40.130 --> 00:38:41.170 where that mouse is, 683 00:38:41.170 --> 00:38:43.470 or where the flying squirrel is on the ground. 684 00:38:44.920 --> 00:38:46.510 - [Narrator] Curved talons are designed 685 00:38:46.510 --> 00:38:48.123 to grasp hold of prey. 686 00:38:49.980 --> 00:38:53.330 Layers of filaments and feathers filter out the wind, 687 00:38:53.330 --> 00:38:55.643 making it a silent flyer. 688 00:38:58.781 --> 00:39:00.583 A male and female mate for life. 689 00:39:01.610 --> 00:39:03.501 This sensitive species won't nest 690 00:39:03.501 --> 00:39:07.220 unless conditions are optimal. 691 00:39:07.220 --> 00:39:09.840 The spotted owl isn't listed as endangered, 692 00:39:09.840 --> 00:39:12.650 but its reproductive rate is dwindling. 693 00:39:12.650 --> 00:39:15.190 According to Susan, national parks 694 00:39:15.190 --> 00:39:17.750 are critical to wildlife research. 695 00:39:17.750 --> 00:39:20.970 - We're just trying to find a little pellet. 696 00:39:20.970 --> 00:39:24.710 We have forests the way they were 500, 600 years ago. 697 00:39:24.710 --> 00:39:26.960 To have it to see what it would look like as a visitor, 698 00:39:26.960 --> 00:39:29.863 and to have it for science is just beyond precious. 699 00:39:31.960 --> 00:39:34.280 - [Narrator] The part of the park called Wawona 700 00:39:34.280 --> 00:39:35.600 was once the halfway point 701 00:39:35.600 --> 00:39:38.630 between Yosemite Valley and the foothills. 702 00:39:38.630 --> 00:39:41.663 Today, it's the historical center of the park. 703 00:39:43.210 --> 00:39:46.743 Cross a covered bridge, and step back in time. 704 00:39:48.770 --> 00:39:51.473 A collection of old cabins from various locations 705 00:39:51.473 --> 00:39:56.463 is set in a timeline from the 1870s to the 1920s. 706 00:39:57.370 --> 00:40:01.323 There's an original ranger's patrol cabin, and a jail. 707 00:40:02.990 --> 00:40:05.610 When roads were rugged, a blacksmith's shop 708 00:40:05.610 --> 00:40:08.413 was more of a repair shop for wagons and harnesses. 709 00:40:11.632 --> 00:40:12.465 - You get the award for the first 710 00:40:12.465 --> 00:40:14.543 triangle of the day I think, look at that. 711 00:40:15.710 --> 00:40:16.603 Wow! 712 00:40:19.530 --> 00:40:21.330 - [Narrator] At the Wells Fargo building, 713 00:40:21.330 --> 00:40:24.259 people once bought stagecoach tickets to the park. 714 00:40:24.259 --> 00:40:27.009 (wagon rattling) 715 00:40:30.660 --> 00:40:35.660 The Wawona Hotel, one of California's oldest resort hotels 716 00:40:35.670 --> 00:40:38.243 dates back to the 1870s. 717 00:40:39.330 --> 00:40:41.020 The main building and cottages 718 00:40:41.020 --> 00:40:43.663 have Victorian era detail and charm. 719 00:40:45.210 --> 00:40:48.103 Inside, the parlor is furnished with period pieces. 720 00:40:52.379 --> 00:40:54.380 To harken back to simpler times, 721 00:40:54.380 --> 00:40:56.779 wide verandas are for dining, 722 00:40:56.779 --> 00:40:59.573 and lawn chairs are for relaxing. 723 00:41:01.030 --> 00:41:04.860 The golf course, considered state of the art in 1917 724 00:41:04.860 --> 00:41:07.010 is still a challenge. 725 00:41:07.010 --> 00:41:08.821 While you're perfecting your swing, 726 00:41:08.821 --> 00:41:11.273 keep an eye out for coyotes. 727 00:41:15.179 --> 00:41:19.900 For an unexpected retreat into old world elegance, 728 00:41:19.900 --> 00:41:22.490 outside the park's Wawona entrance, 729 00:41:22.490 --> 00:41:27.490 the Chateau du Sureau, means castle by the elderberries. 730 00:41:27.690 --> 00:41:29.250 This five diamond member 731 00:41:29.250 --> 00:41:32.330 of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Organization 732 00:41:32.330 --> 00:41:34.203 is a dream destination. 733 00:41:37.340 --> 00:41:39.979 With only 12 rooms, a stay here 734 00:41:39.979 --> 00:41:43.693 is all about privacy and hospitality. 735 00:41:46.530 --> 00:41:49.110 - The great manor houses of Europe in the old days, 736 00:41:49.110 --> 00:41:53.050 when the affluent invited their friends over, 737 00:41:53.050 --> 00:41:54.950 it was all about, they knew 738 00:41:54.950 --> 00:41:56.660 they were gonna be taken care of. 739 00:41:56.660 --> 00:41:58.230 They had this beautiful bedroom, 740 00:41:58.230 --> 00:42:00.960 and there was a staff assigned to them, 741 00:42:00.960 --> 00:42:03.227 and they just were spoiled. 742 00:42:03.227 --> 00:42:06.033 It's a different kind of stay. 743 00:42:06.033 --> 00:42:09.360 (people chattering) 744 00:42:09.360 --> 00:42:11.633 - [Narrator] At Erna's Elderberry House Restaurant, 745 00:42:11.633 --> 00:42:14.513 artful dishes are always evolving. 746 00:42:18.010 --> 00:42:21.810 - I believe food parallels all other art forms, 747 00:42:21.810 --> 00:42:23.637 and when you dive into photography, 748 00:42:23.637 --> 00:42:27.440 or get into the waterfalls out here, 749 00:42:27.440 --> 00:42:29.750 it shows in the plate also. 750 00:42:29.750 --> 00:42:32.393 I think we have a pretty beautiful product. 751 00:42:35.660 --> 00:42:37.294 - [Narrator] The dining room with chandeliers 752 00:42:37.294 --> 00:42:42.294 and impeccable tablescapes is yet another idyllic setting. 753 00:42:43.960 --> 00:42:47.453 - Beauty makes your soul feel good. 754 00:42:47.453 --> 00:42:50.967 It's important that we still remember how it used to be, 755 00:42:50.967 --> 00:42:52.530 and that it does feel good. 756 00:42:56.393 --> 00:42:59.143 (dramatic music) 757 00:43:03.150 --> 00:43:04.693 - [Narrator] Yosemite's Merced River 758 00:43:04.693 --> 00:43:08.700 originates in the snowfields of the High Sierra, 759 00:43:08.700 --> 00:43:11.643 then descends over 12,000 feet. 760 00:43:15.690 --> 00:43:18.820 Explorers who came upon it after traveling through 761 00:43:18.820 --> 00:43:23.296 bone dry terrain called it "the River of Mercy." 762 00:43:23.296 --> 00:43:26.046 (pleasant music) 763 00:43:29.550 --> 00:43:33.043 A float through the park makes for effortless sightseeing. 764 00:43:39.176 --> 00:43:42.640 (people chattering) 765 00:43:42.640 --> 00:43:46.020 In the spring, outside the park's western boundary, 766 00:43:46.020 --> 00:43:50.193 the Merced becomes mighty with class three and four rapids. 767 00:43:51.680 --> 00:43:56.210 Frigid temperatures and swift currents 768 00:43:56.210 --> 00:43:58.523 make it one exhilarating ride. 769 00:43:59.729 --> 00:44:02.562 (people cheering) 770 00:44:06.580 --> 00:44:10.023 One of the most scenic stretches of wild river in the world, 771 00:44:11.800 --> 00:44:16.496 the Merced mirrors the lush and serene Yosemite Valley. 772 00:44:16.496 --> 00:44:18.940 (birds chirping) 773 00:44:18.940 --> 00:44:21.610 Once upon a time, there was a sister valley 774 00:44:21.610 --> 00:44:23.470 called Hetch Hetchy, 775 00:44:23.470 --> 00:44:26.413 a Native American word for meadow grass. 776 00:44:27.680 --> 00:44:32.475 This treasure now lies under a reservoir eight miles long, 777 00:44:32.475 --> 00:44:35.363 the park's biggest body of water. 778 00:44:36.940 --> 00:44:39.130 - So we're standing here looking at a reservoir, 779 00:44:39.130 --> 00:44:41.900 which you have to remember would never be built today. 780 00:44:41.900 --> 00:44:43.990 I mean, this is something that 100 years ago, 781 00:44:43.990 --> 00:44:47.590 people had a real different notion of national parks. 782 00:44:47.590 --> 00:44:50.463 - [Narrator] Even then, the dam was controversial. 783 00:44:51.540 --> 00:44:53.963 The saga began in 1906. 784 00:44:56.669 --> 00:44:59.910 In the aftermath of a great quake, 785 00:44:59.910 --> 00:45:02.803 San Francisco burned to the ground. 786 00:45:06.070 --> 00:45:08.930 - And so when some of the architects and engineers 787 00:45:08.930 --> 00:45:11.980 from the city of San Francisco came here to Yosemite, 788 00:45:11.980 --> 00:45:14.550 they saw the mouth of the Tuolumne River 789 00:45:14.550 --> 00:45:16.672 in the Hetch Hetchy Valley, and they had the idea 790 00:45:16.672 --> 00:45:18.263 to build a dam. 791 00:45:19.460 --> 00:45:21.500 - [Narrator] The proposed dam set the stage 792 00:45:21.500 --> 00:45:24.060 for John Muir's most bitter battle, 793 00:45:24.060 --> 00:45:25.533 and a national debate. 794 00:45:27.990 --> 00:45:30.230 - He thought that this was a cathedral, 795 00:45:30.230 --> 00:45:32.249 and to build a dam and fill up this water 796 00:45:32.249 --> 00:45:35.210 was basically like taking a cathedral 797 00:45:35.210 --> 00:45:36.097 and filling it with water, 798 00:45:36.097 --> 00:45:39.463 and it was desecration in its highest form. 799 00:45:40.830 --> 00:45:42.360 - [Narrator] In the end, progress 800 00:45:42.360 --> 00:45:44.903 and sympathy for San Francisco won out. 801 00:45:45.750 --> 00:45:49.803 Building the O'Shaughnessy Dam was a feat of logistics. 802 00:45:51.200 --> 00:45:54.433 Hetch Hetchy was an extremely remote area. 803 00:45:56.170 --> 00:46:00.283 A railroad hauled men and materials up mountainous terrain. 804 00:46:03.050 --> 00:46:07.320 They constructed walls 430 feet high, 805 00:46:07.320 --> 00:46:09.940 and 298 feet thick. 806 00:46:13.710 --> 00:46:18.010 Today, the dam supplies electricity and water 807 00:46:18.010 --> 00:46:21.900 to 2.4 million Bay Area users. 808 00:46:21.900 --> 00:46:24.530 - Residents of San Francisco enjoy some of the cleanest, 809 00:46:24.530 --> 00:46:26.773 purest water there is. 810 00:46:28.770 --> 00:46:30.080 - [Narrator] With no pumps, 811 00:46:30.080 --> 00:46:32.703 the system relies entirely on gravity. 812 00:46:36.110 --> 00:46:39.610 John Muir never lived to see any of it, 813 00:46:39.610 --> 00:46:41.328 but people claim they see his face 814 00:46:41.328 --> 00:46:43.973 in the reservoir's north wall. 815 00:46:48.070 --> 00:46:51.343 Hetch Hetchy may be a 21st century marvel. 816 00:46:52.560 --> 00:46:54.520 Deconstruction of the dam, 817 00:46:54.520 --> 00:46:57.623 and restoration of the valley is being studied. 818 00:46:58.810 --> 00:47:00.374 - The O'Shaughnessy Dam was done by humans, 819 00:47:00.374 --> 00:47:02.803 and it can be undone by humans, 820 00:47:03.970 --> 00:47:06.930 and our plan for restoring the Hetch Hetchy Valley, 821 00:47:06.930 --> 00:47:10.960 it can take about five years to deconstruct the dam, 822 00:47:10.960 --> 00:47:14.260 and the scientists tell us the Hetch Hetchy Valley 823 00:47:14.260 --> 00:47:16.693 will restore itself on its own. 824 00:47:20.150 --> 00:47:21.570 - [Narrator] For John Muir, 825 00:47:21.570 --> 00:47:23.853 going to the mountains was going home. 826 00:47:26.971 --> 00:47:30.020 To represent the state of California on the US quarter, 827 00:47:30.020 --> 00:47:32.530 Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger chose images 828 00:47:32.530 --> 00:47:35.563 of Muir, the condor, and Half Dome. 829 00:47:39.500 --> 00:47:41.873 Amid the grandeur of the Sierra Nevada, 830 00:47:43.451 --> 00:47:46.672 the 211 mile John Muir Trail 831 00:47:46.672 --> 00:47:50.650 winds through park lands to wilderness lands. 832 00:47:50.650 --> 00:47:55.197 It's here Muir co-founded the Sierra Club to, in his words, 833 00:47:55.197 --> 00:47:57.287 "Do something for the wilderness, 834 00:47:57.287 --> 00:47:59.397 "and make the mountains glad." 835 00:48:05.330 --> 00:48:08.683 From Glacier Point, it is a glorious sight. 836 00:48:10.750 --> 00:48:15.650 Yosemite today is a haven for black bears and big trees, 837 00:48:15.650 --> 00:48:20.117 rock jocks, scientists, and visitors, and way beyond. 838 00:48:21.232 --> 00:48:24.300 It's the birthplace of a conservation movement 839 00:48:24.300 --> 00:48:26.091 heard round the world. 840 00:48:26.091 --> 00:48:28.924 (dramatic music)